Scramble up a gully on the true left about 40m downstream Grootkloof Gully. At the top of the gully is a cave with the first aid dump. The route starts a few meters right of the first aid dump.
37m (15) Climb up sloping face with crack running diagonally right through it to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up to and around the overhang on the right using the steep face on the right to gain the crack above the overhang. Follow the crack up to a ledge below the prominent overhang.
15m (10) Climb through the overhang following the line of the crack through it. There is a good wobbly chockstone in the crack above the overhang that can be used as a sling point. Impressive climbing but not very difficult. Continue up crack and onto smooth sloping ledge. Belay on the ledge or continue higher to a tree.
This climb is normally done in one pitch.
28 Aug 1938 | First ascent: C. Nicholls, C. Purdham & C. Gebhardt |
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15, 10 | Assigned grade |
★★Marc dM | |
15 | SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.
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