This route should not be done from April to October as eagles nest on the large ledge. The climb starts about 45m downstream of R.A.F. CHINK just above a pool which has to be waded to proceed further downstream. Good climb for club meets (mostly grade 7 with 8/9 moves in each pitch).
25m 8 Start on upstream side of depression in rock wall. Climb 6m to depression, then up and traverse left for 8m where a running belay can be made. Ascend 9m in recess to bushy tree.
12m 5 Climb 3m and walk right along grassy ledge to large tree at base of crack.
18m 10 Climb crack, going on to right hand face after 8m and up to tree.
12m 8 Up 5m and traverse left immediately below overhang in exposed position.
9m 8 Climb face on right. This pitch can be avoided.
16 Jan 1955 | First ascent: R. Kinsley & E. Scholes |
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12 Nov 2019 | Warning Flora and Fauna: Black Eagles nesting from April to October inclusive |
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8,5,10,8,8 | Assigned grade |
Marc dM | |
10 | SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.
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