★★ Pilgrim's Progress 19

Good climbing although easier options on either side of the route detract somewhat. The route begins a little downstream of the point midway between the waterfall and the huge chockstone wedged across the kloof. The first pitch goes up a prominent groove fault which leads diagonally right wards up the left side of the kloof to a large ledge 17m up, situated beneath an overhang.

1. 17m 13 Climb directly up to meet the prominent groove/fault about halfway along its length and follow it to the ledge below the overhang.

2. 25m 19 From the left side of the ledge traverse delicately leftwards round the corner and climb up to a small stance (8m 17). Climb up a few metres from stance and traverse right onto the steep face. 8m of sustained technical climbing straight up the face leads to a large ledge. (Possible to split pitch at 8m.)

3. 18m 15 Climb the corner/chimney on the arete above to a good ledge.

4. 20m 17 Climb the face to below the overhanging arete. Move around to the right side of the arete and, keeping close to the arete, climb up to a good ledge. (Alt. easier climbing lies to the right.)

5. 20m 17 Climb the yellow face above, first by using the crack on the left and then by continuing up the centre of the face (easier options may be found on the edges of the face) to finish at the top of the ridge.

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.