Young Whippersnapper 20

Starts midway between STRAIGHT EDGE corner and CLEFT BUTTRESS and takes the crack and outside edge of the buttress above.

1. 25m 20 Ascend the layback crack just to the right of a tree growing against the cliff 2m out from the STRAIGHT EDGE crack to a ledge 5m up. Climb the off-width crack (left) to below an overhang and step left to a small ledge on the outside corner. Attain the ramp above delicately and layback through the steep section (crux). Climb more easily to a ledge and eye belay.

2. 12m 9 Chimney up behind stance (as for STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER).

Variation:

1. 25m 19 From the sloping ramp move left around the corner and climb to the same stance on small positive holds. Climb straight up from the top of the off-width crack, that is, do not step left onto the outside corner. (May 1985 Kevin M. Smith, Steve Bradshaw and A. Jack)

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.