This route takes the next buttress downstream of BULLIT. It has the largest red overhang on top and a large rotten recess to the right. Start in the middle front of the buttress.
20m 13 Scramble up to a convenient belay ledge. (As for MARKWELL).
30m 19 Climb the main break, fairly easily at first and then with difficulty. Move right into the undercut jam crack at the overhang, and through to a good belay ledge below the top roofs.
25m 21 Climb out easily to left onto a thin crawling ledge. Wriggle out until able to flop out into a handrail position. Traverse left until able to pull through the roofs on small holds. Continue straight up through to the top.
1979 | First ascent: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond |
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13,19,21 | Assigned grade |
★★★Marc dM | |
21 | ★★ SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.
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