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1 13 15m
2 15 25m
Description:

Downstream of Short Gully is a buttress that projects out to the stream. The climb starts at the right hand edge of the projecting face that reaches into the stream. There is a thin (20cm) tall three growing right next to the arete, rubbing against it a few meters higher.

  1. 15m (13) Easily climb up the face just left of the arete. (Protection is not great here - wrap a sling around the tree). Climb into corner above the tree and continue up to the eye-hole belay.

  2. 25m (15) From the eye hole, continue up on sloping face tending right. Traverse 1m right just above roof. Continue up on good holds tending slight left. Move left into corner (crux) and continue a few meters higher. Traverse left and around the corner with fingers in good crimpy rail and feet just above the roof. Continue up on sloping face tending right and climb out just above the overhangs.

The climb is usually done in one pitch but communication is difficult over the noise of the stream from the top. The eye-hole belay is small and uncomfortable for more than one 2nd.

Ethic: inherited from Upper Tonquani Kloof

Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: D. Gillham, L. Schaff, M. de Villiers & B. Russel, Jul 1949

Location:  

Located in Upper Tonquani Kloof approx:
Lat/Long: -25.849006,27.499190

Route Grade Citations

13,15 Community registered grade
15 SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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