The route begins in the recess just to the left of 'Kalahari', "steals" about 6m of 'Right Corner Overhang' and then branches off right from 'Right Corner Overhang' to take the steep lay-back/jam crack instead of continuing up to the smooth face of 'Right Corner Overhang'.
20m 18 Climb the recess up to the overhang. Step right onto the arete, up 3m to a handrail and then left to a point just above the overhang. Up to the ledge and stance at the chockstone eye-hole common with 'Right Corner Crag' (old peg).
30m 19 Continue up diagonally right as for 'Right Corner Overhang' to the Y-junction made by 'Right Corner Overhang' (left arm of Y) and the lay-away/jam crack. Strenuous climbing but good nuts brings you to the overhang topping the crack and a difficult move round the corner brings you into a steep but easy crack. Continue to the top and a stance common with 'The Moke'.
Note: Often climbed as a single pitch, using the start of 'Right Corner Overhang' to avoid the belay in the river.
May 1983 | First ascent: P. Brunswick & Charles Edelstein |
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17 Jul 2020 | Warning Flora and Fauna: Black Eagles nesting from April to October - Reunion to Stone Needle |
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18,19 | Assigned grade |
★★Marc dM | |
19 | ★ SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.
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