Western Buttress Guide

A filthy route as the name suggests. Climb the obvious crack 50 m left of Jean, breaking out right onto the face near the top.

Start seven metres left of Warchild.

1. Climb through a small overhang up diagonally right to a large ledge and cave.

2. Move up to the left-hand side of the cave and rail right to break through another overhang and exit.

Climbs the wall to the left of Warchild, starting under the roof by a tree. Pull through past a peg and up to a rail. Continue straight to the top.

Climbs the wall between Warchild and Pieces of the Sky, starting at the break between the two. Pull through and climb up to the next roof. Go straight through past two pegs on the left. Climb diagonally up the wall to a short vertical crack. Climb straight up to exit past a peg. The crux is the last move.

Starts as for Wilderness of Pain. Climb up to the roof and pull through to continue straight up the wall on micro edges, passing two bolts.

Start five metres left of Jean. This route sports a rather large lead-out, and has sent almost every local climber on such a huge whipper that they should probably have packed sandwiches for the trip! Climb a shallow recess to a rail on the left of a bush (pegs). Continue straight to the top.

A fine route with fairly sustained climbing. The route was first top-roped by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth. Start at the bottom of the left-hand corner (facing the rock) adjacent to the scramble down. Climb a short steep ramp to a rail. Move around the corner to the right and pull up to a jug. Traverse back left for approximately three metres using the rail as a foot rail. Pull up and climb slightly right to a peg. Move left and pull up to a small ledge, and continue past another peg and slightly right to gain good but rounded holds. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

Start on the smooth face just to the right of the ramp that forms the start of Jean.Boulder up to the rail and stretch through to the jug. Instead of traversing left, climb straight up the shallow recess on the corner. Carry straight up to the top after the recess peters out.

Starts just before the bottom of the scramble, about five metres above and to the right of Jean. Climb up the broken rock to the small roof on the right of the corner. Traverse left just before the roof for two metres to a peg. Traverse back right and climb through the bulge to the top.

A short route with some technical face climbing. Start at a tree on the right of the scramble down. The upper section route is reasonably protected with small wires and Friends, contrary to comments in earlier guides. Climb a short steep face to a small ledge. Climb the face past a peg directly above and exit slightly to the right.

Enjoyable, well protected climbing with a variety of moves, especially if it is linked with Problem Child. Starts at the tree below the first recess to the right of the scramble down. Climb the recess up to a roof. Side-step and pull around the roof to the left into a corner below another, larger roof. Traverse left across the face below the roof for about two metres and then climb a shallow crack until it is possible to traverse right for about three metres to a sloping ledge above the roof. Exit up the crack (can be greasy) and face to the right. There is an alternate line that breaks through the roof to the base of the exit crack (16).

A popular option is to combine the lower sections of Reformatory with the upper section of Problem Child in a single pitch. This includes the best of both climbs and leaves out the arbitrary start to Problem Child, and the greasy exit crack of Reformatory. Highly recommended.

Start, and continue on Reformatory until the end of the shallow crack. Instead of traversing right above the roof, traverse easily left onto the ledge below the fixed peg and continue as for Problem Child.

A tricky route similar to Reformatory in character. Starts in the recess to the right of Reformatory. Climb the steep recess and face to under a small roof. Side-step this to the left to gain the face above. Climb directly up past a flake on small holds until ones feet are level with the flake. Traverse right for two metres and then finish directly up the face to a tree. Poor protection after the roof.

Takes the face between Delinquent and Return to Fantasy. Climb the face to a ledge at the base of a shallow recess. Move up into the recess and then diagonally right and up to another ledge. Follow the easy face and recess to the top.

This is one of the classics in its grade at Monteseel, offering varied and interesting climbing with a fine exit crack. It was considered the standard 17 against which other routes were graded. Start at the overhanging recess to the right of Kids in America.

A gorilla take-off is followed by an easy shallow recess to a ledge. Climb diagonally up to the right of the roof and then step left onto the face and follow a shallow crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious recess and crack to the top.

This route supersedes Mithril, opened in 1980 by Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw. Start two metres right of Return to Fantasy.

Climb up the face to a bulge. Climb through this and onto the slab below the roof. Move right to the obvious break in the roof. Climb straight up to a ledge and finish up the crack.

A route just left of the prow between Lord of the Rings and Out of the Blue. Wander up the wall to a large step in the roof where there is a peg. Pull through the roof (bolt) then past two more pegs, following a flake line to a fourth peg. Climb up to a rail and finish straight up the grey face.

An improbable looking line up the prow to the left of Out of the Blue. Start as for Monkey Heaven but move right around the roof and then straight up the blank headwall, passing a second bolt. Your belayer must give you a few feet of slack should you fall off the crux to ensure that you fall below the roof and not swing into it.

Start at a thin crack to the right of Monkey Heaven/Dusklands. Climb the wall to the roof (peg). Move through the roof, past a peg to a jug and then left to a layback. Continue up this to the top. There is a long fall off the headwall which is "well protected" by two adjacently placed No. 1 Rocks. Some of the older climbers used to refer to it as "Out of the Blue....and into the Loony Bin" as it can be somewhat terrifying.

Climbs the wall to the right of Out of the Blue. Pumping and tricky. Start just to the right of Out of the Blue and climb up the wall to below the roof. Pull through the roof at a bolt. Climb the wall past a peg and a bolt to the top.

A bold line through an overhang to gain a fine face. Starts seven metres right of where Sewer used to be. Climb up to the overhang on rounded holds. Break through the overhang, past two pegs, and then traverse one metre right. Climb directly up for six metres, traverse left and climb a smooth face to a ledge. Continue up to a second ledge and then up to a crack on the right which is followed to the top.

The line is recognisable by the large glue-in ring bolts to the right of Suicide Wall. Climb straight up the face. Some additional gear is required.

Starts from a ledge just around the corner from Christmas Wall. Technical. Traverse left for three metres, move up and continue left to the edge. Pull through a small roof to reach an awkward cubbyhole. Move right and up to a sloping ledge. Continue up a smooth face to the top, keeping just to the right of the edge. Poorly protected on the last section.

A line that has acquired a bit of a reputation for its grade over the years, but is well worth doing, with exciting moves on a steep wall. Start on the blocky ledge common to the starts of Edge of Eternity and Angel Dust. Climb slightly left to a protruding block on the face. Climb onto the block and up the face to a recess. Climb this and move left to exit.

Start just to the left of Angel Dust, below the first Peg. Climb the face above, past another peg, to a rail. Pull onto the small ledge on Angel Dust. Climb directly up (i.e. left of the Angel Dust headwall) passing the small triangular niche on the left. Finish straight up the face above. There is a gripping lead-out at the top.

This is one of the climbs that marked the start of a new era of hard climbing at Monteseel. Starts on the ledge two metres to the right of Couchant, below a thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb the thin crack to a rail. Traverse left for one metre to a resting place. Move up slightly right and then directly up the wall to finish up the break at the lip. Gear on the headwall is sparse but good.

This is an eliminate between Direct Insult and Angel Dust. The moves are harder than Angel Dust, but are better protected. Start as for Angel Dust. Climb the crack and continue straight up past the big rail, and then directly up the wall above keeping to the right of Angel Dust. The finish is marked by a short crack.

Committing climbing in the middle sections. Start up a very shallow corner to the right of the start of Angel Dust. Climb a section of poor rock up to a large rail and traverse right onto the corner. Move left and then up three metres to a second rail. Traverse left to a narrow ledge and then climb up for three metres and move right to a ledge, traversing to the right of the ledge before getting onto it. Move back left, pull onto the wall and traverse right for two metres to exit.

A direct line through Death Wish. Start as for Death Wish to the rail and continue straight up the open-book until level with the ledge. Move diagonally left and then back right to finish directly above.

An obvious line giving uninspiring climbing. Start immediately to the right of the crack in the corner (Right Angle Overhang - described in Odds and Sods) to the right of Death Wish. Climb up to under a slanting roof. Pull through this into the obvious recess that is followed to the top.

A line that tends to sand up but is worth a clean as it gives fine climbing. Start in the openbook to the right of Space Odyssey. Climb the openbook to an overhang. Pull through this and finish up the left hand wall above.

Short, but superb corner to the right of the vegetated corner that forms UFO (described in Odds and Sods). The climb starts from a ledge with a tree. It is easier to abseil to the start.

Scramble up onto - or abseil down onto - the top of a small, flat-topped column of rock located 5 m to the left of Boris the Beanstalk and next to a large euphorbia tree. The top of this column is currently covered by a wiry creeper.

1. From the top of the column, step left onto the face to gain the start of a recess. Climb up towards the left-hand end of a small roof. Climb the recess on the left of the roof to gain a stance on the right hand end of the Daylights Robertsry ledge. The stance on the ledge is at the base of a short open-book.

2. Climb the open book and then take the line of least resistance to the top.

The first pitch is excellent but the second pitch needs a lot of cleaning. Until this is done, it might be better to walk to the left along the ledge and top out up Daylights Robertsry.

One of the older classics. It offers varied, interesting climbing and deserves more ascents. Start by scrambling onto a large ledge 5 m to the left of Gates of Delirium.

1. Climb up from the left of the ledge, past a small ledge, and up a recess to a nose. Move up and left to under the roof, and continue left to a crack in the roof which is climbed to a ledge.

2. Climb the recess on the left of the ledge to under a small roof. Traverse left onto the nose and continue up to a ledge. Climb a short recess and continue to the top.

Originally opened by Dave Shuttleworth and John Collings as Deliberate (15, A1), the route was "re-opened" as Time Warp by Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden before being freed by Mike Roberts. There is an alternate, harder first pitch opened by Mike Roberts and Mick Hafner in 1979. Start at the base of a steep wall with overhangs on the right.

1. Climb up a broken face for four metres and then traverse left on dubious rock to a small nose. From here either (a) Climb diagonally right to under a small roof, moving left onto a stance with a peg (18), or (b) climb directly up a steep shallow recess to the stance (21).

2. From the stance, climb diagonally right into the big corner and move up to under the roof. Traverse out left and move around the roof to gain a small recess. Climb up the recess past a peg. Move left and follow another break to the top.

An aid route that takes an unobvious line through the large, blocky overhangs. It is doubtful whether this route has had a second ascent. Start five metres to the right of Gates of Delirium. Break through several routes, taking a fairly direct line to the top.

Some interesting climbing which unfortunately only offers good climbing over short sections. Erroneously graded as 17 in previous guides. Start on the easy face left of the Fear of Flight ledge. Climb the face to reach a corner under a small roof. Pull through and traverse left to a rest. A tricky move left gains a small recess which is followed to the top.

Short and strenuous. Start on the left-hand edge of the Fear of Flight ledge. Traverse left onto the face and move up to reach an off-balance ledge. Continue up a short, shallow recess to a second ledge. Pull onto the roofs and continue through them for five metres. Move out right onto the face which is followed to the top.

Start from the blocks on the left of the Fear of Flight ledge, below an imposing, clean wall. Climb the wall past a peg to the ledge. Break through the roofs and continue up to another peg on the left of the Shadows’ headwall. Move left on undercut holds to finish.

Instead of moving left to finish, climb straight up to the top from the second peg. Run out.

An imposing face offering excellent moves on superb rock. Unfortunately the face gets very dusty and covered with sand, hence the four star rating. You have to brush the entire headwall beforehand in order to enjoy the line, but rest assured that half an hour of brushing is well worth the effort. Start just left of the crack at the base of Fear of Flight. Pass a bolt and climb up the thin seam to the roof. Move left along the rail to below a peg. Pull through the roof and up to the rail. Move slightly right and up the headwall.

Start on the big ledge below the clean overhanging wall. Climb the crack to the roof and continue straight up to a small ledge. Climb directly to the top.

Climbs the narrow face to the right of Fear of Flight. Good climbing past two bolts, but a little contrived as you shouldn’t step off the wall at the second bolt.

Start on the ledge around the corner to the right of Fear of Flight. Traverse left across the wall to the foot of the thin crack. Climb up the crack to where it peters out. From here, move diagonally right across the face to finish up the vague recess. This has superseded the original line which traversed lower down the face, but is very contrived. It is also possible to finish directly above the crack.

A more direct version of Daydreamer offering aesthetic moves on clean rock. Climb directly up the middle of the face. Supplement the bolts with a medium (No. 2-3) Friend and two opposed No. 1 Rocks near the top.

Climbs the steep wall to the right of Daydreamer. One can abseil onto the ledge from a tree. Climb up from the ledge on a ramp leading to the corner for nine metres, then traverse right to the base of an overhanging crack. Climb up to a ledge with a small tree on it. Move right and do a hard move to gain the obvious block. Climb up this and continue to the top. Loose!!

The route starts around the corner to the right of Daydreamer. The first and last six metres provide the interesting climbing. Climb up a rounded face moving left around a small roof into a small recess. Climb up past two small bulges to a ledge. Continue up a recess to below a roof, traverse right and up a chimney to the top.

Start immediately right of Sabbatarian in the dank recess below the obvious water chute. Climb the recess for fifteen metres, moving right at one point. Traverse two metres right and finish up an easy recess.

Start in the same corner as Come Short.

1. Climb the corner to a large rail. Traverse left for two metres, pull up and move left to the base of a huge recess. Climb this moving right at one point to avoid a roof. Traverse right at the top of the recess to a good stance.

2. From the stance, move up for two metres to an overhanging recess with a peg. Climb up around the bulge to a ledge. Finish slightly left.

The second pitch is somewhat different, being easier for people of restricted growth, hence the name. Start at the base of a huge corner.

1. Climb a short recess for three metres and traverse left onto a ledge, continuing up to a second ledge. Climb a shallow recess and move diagonally left onto blocks. Continue left and then up to a large stance.

2. Traverse left along the obvious grassy rail and exit easily to the top.

The hardest route at Monteseel to date. Fully bolted. Abseil onto the big ledge halfway up Sunshine Chute where there is a two-bolt belay on the ledge. Long cranks on tiny, yet positive edges are the solution to this continuous problem. Have a good pair of edging shoes.

A surprisingly clean and interesting line up the vegetated recess to the right of Come Short. Climb the right hand side of the recess to the top

A short route that is well worth doing. Completely separate from Schadenfreude. Starts from the left hand side of a large ledge that is easily reached from the bottom. Climb onto the face and move immediately left to a small recess. Ascend this to a ledge on the left and continue up a steep wall to a rail. Traverse left to the corner and climb up, moving right to exit behind a large block.

The route takes a bold break through the big roof to the right of Schadenfreude Direct and has an airy crux. Start from the same ledge as Schadenfreude Direct. Climb the large crack to a ledge under the roof. Pull up into the roof and traverse left to pull onto the nose of the roof. Climb the off-width crack to a ledge and continue easily to the top.

A short route following a large crack in the corner to the right of Sigmund Freude. The climb is spoiled by a heavily vegetated top section. Pull up on blocks to gain the recess and follow this to the top.

Starts on the huge ledge about one third of the way up the arete. Climb the overhanging arete on excellent natural gear.

Starts beneath the ledge on Violent Haze. Climb the arete then move to the left of the Violent Haze ledge. Climb the blocky face to the left of the arete.

A worthwhile route, but unfortunately spoiled by some poor rock, particularly the first pitch. Start around the corner to the right of Schadenfreude.

(1) Climb up through a roof onto a steep face. Traverse to the right, around a block, onto a good stance. A more strenuous alternative is to start just right of the tree halfway up the face and climb the short recess to the stance.

(2) Climb a steep face to reach a recess. Climb this and move right to exit.

Easy, but interesting climbing.

Either abseil down Jack the Ripper and walk West or abseil off the blocks at the top of the cliff ~50m East of the Utopia access abseil. Both abseils are ~40m.

The route name is painted on the rock at the base of the cliff.

(1) Climb a shallow recess for a few metres before traversing left onto an easy face. Climb the face to a ledge and then walk left to some blocks, belay here.

(2) Climb the corner left of the blocks until reaching a ledge to the left with large flakes leaning against the face. Traverse the ledge until able to climb directly up to finish. Alternatively, traverse along the top of the flakes (awkward).

1. Fun first pitch straight up to under the huge roof. Nice jugs, good gear and exposure... Just a fun climb. The finish of the first pitch is located under the roof in a right angle corner with good gear and a solid ledge.

2. The second pitch is a traverse out right with HUGE exposure. This is a rather long pitch which bends around a corner making communication difficult. There is relatively good gear but what makes the pitch hard is the exposure. If the wind is strong you might battle with balance. This pitch can be done in two if you stop right before climber and belayer loose sight of each other in a small cave. This is not recommended but is always an option. The second pitch is supposed to end on a rather big ledge with a small tree growing out of it. There is plenty of space to sit and rest before finishing the climb. There is a great view from here.

3. The last pitch heads straight up to the top and can also be done in two pitches however that shouldn't be needed to be done. You should come out under some trees but don't stress too much if you are slightly off route.

It is recommended that you take someone who has climbed this before as it is extremely difficult to locate both the decent anchors as well as the start of the climb.