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Description

The Lower Middle Buttress is located directly opposite (downhill from) the usual car park. Despite its name, there is no Upper Middle Buttress!

Access issues inherited from Monteseel

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Approach

The base of the crag may be reached in one of three ways. The first option is to take the path from the car park and continue down this path between the Eastern and Lower Middle Buttresses. The path forks near a very large block. The lesser path leads off to the right along a large ledge that runs along the base of the Eastern Buttress. The major path carries on down into the valley below. Follow this path until it is possible to scramble across to the left (facing downhill) to reach the bottom of the Lower Middle Buttress. An alternative approach is to scramble/climb down the bushy corner between A Sight for Sore Eyes and Penny in the Slot. An abseil provides the final alternative. The climbs on this Buttress are grouped into four areas.

Ethic inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.