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Description

These two climbs are on a small isolated crag between the Lower Middle Buttress and the Western Buttress. Descend the grass spur that runs down towards the valley between the Western Buttress and the Lower Middle Buttress. The climbs are located in the clean, orange-coloured corner, which is lower than the level of the Gin and Vermouth ledge.

Access issues inherited from Monteseel

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Approach

To avoid bundu-bashing, it is best to abseil to the start of the climbs.

Ethic inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

Routes

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1

This is a short, but pleasant climb. Start two metres left of the corner (Capital F) and climb the clean face past a small flake to finish up the steep face above.

FA: Adrian Hill, 1980

2
12 Capital F Trad

Climb the obvious corner to the top

FA: Dave Castro, 1975