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Access issues inherited from Monteseel

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Approach

Reached via the Cold Feet scramble as for the Hot Head/Sizzle area, but continuing down the scramble to the base of the cliff on the right.

Ethic inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, J. Roth and Grant Murray, 1988

2
21 Satellite Trad

Start six metres right of the Cold Feet scramble. Climb up a black streak to a rail. Move up and left to a small ledge. Climb up the shallow recess to the small roof and move left onto a steep face. Climb this to the top. Do not exit to the left.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

3

Start two metres to the right of Satellite. Boulder up the wall to the wide rail and then up to the next big rail. Pull up to the base of the groove right of Satellite (peg). Move right and then up the wall tending left, keeping just right of the groove. Exit at the block hanging over the lip. Very pumping.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

4

Start next to the pillar from which Wild Sky starts. Climb the easy wall to the left to a detached block (peg). Pull over the bulge and climb up to a small roof and up the groove past another peg.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

5

Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug. Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the wall to exit slightly right on white rock.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1985

6

Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

7
26 ** Wild Sky Trad

A superbly bouldery route. Start near the left of the ledge below a bolt.

Climb up through the bulge above and up to a small roof. Move slightly right to the peg and up to a rail. Up one move diagonally left into the centre of the wall and exit past a ledge. Unfortunately this route has subsequently been damaged by lightening and now sports a death run out after the crux.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

8

Starts ten metres right of Satellite, on the ledge. Climb the obvious recess in the middle of the face. Break onto the face above to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

9
27 * Daylight Again Mixed 1

Start as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, moving left on a contorted traverse below the roof. Climb up right and pull through the roof to a peg. Climb the wall above, past a manky bolt, on micro-thin holds to the top.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Chris Jackson, 1984

10

Start about three metres right of Dark Side of the Moon. Climb through bulges to the obvious rail. Move right around the corner, and then up the face to finish up the shallow recess above.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

11
17 * Sidewinder Trad

Starts just left of the last pitch of Pilgrim’s Progress. Climb diagonally left to exit up the shallow recess as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster.

FA: Pete Muir, Ian Macdonald and Shaun Peard, 1979