Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

We don't know where this area is located. Do you? Locate area
Approach:

Reached via the Cold Feet scramble as for the Hot Head/Sizzle area, but continuing down the scramble to the base of the cliff on the right.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Planet Claire

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, J. Roth and Grant Murray, 1988

22
Trad
2 Satellite

Start six metres right of the Cold Feet scramble. Climb up a black streak to a rail. Move up and left to a small ledge. Climb up the shallow recess to the small roof and move left onto a steep face. Climb this to the top. Do not exit to the left.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

21
Trad
3 ** Flaming Desperation

Start two metres to the right of Satellite. Boulder up the wall to the wide rail and then up to the next big rail. Pull up to the base of the groove right of Satellite (peg). Move right and then up the wall tending left, keeping just right of the groove. Exit at the block hanging over the lip. Very pumping.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

26
Trad
4 * An Instant in the Wind

Start next to the pillar from which Wild Sky starts. Climb the easy wall to the left to a detached block (peg). Pull over the bulge and climb up to a small roof and up the groove past another peg.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

24
Trad
5 ** The Flames of Sunset

Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug. Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the wall to exit slightly right on white rock.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1985

25
Trad
6 * The Flames of Sunset Direct

Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

25
Trad
7 ** Wild Sky

A superbly bouldery route. Start near the left of the ledge below a bolt.

Climb up through the bulge above and up to a small roof. Move slightly right to the peg and up to a rail. Up one move diagonally left into the centre of the wall and exit past a ledge. Unfortunately this route has subsequently been damaged by lightening and now sports a death run out after the crux.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

26
Trad
8 Dark Side of the Moon

Starts ten metres right of Satellite, on the ledge. Climb the obvious recess in the middle of the face. Break onto the face above to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

21
Trad
9 * Daylight Again

Start as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, moving left on a contorted traverse below the roof. Climb up right and pull through the roof to a peg. Climb the wall above, past a manky bolt, on micro-thin holds to the top.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Chris Jackson, 1984

27
Mixed 1
10 * Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster

Start about three metres right of Dark Side of the Moon. Climb through bulges to the obvious rail. Move right around the corner, and then up the face to finish up the shallow recess above.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

20
Trad
11 * Sidewinder

Starts just left of the last pitch of Pilgrim’s Progress. Climb diagonally left to exit up the shallow recess as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster.

FA: Pete Muir, Ian Macdonald and Shaun Peard, 1979

17
Trad