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Access issues inherited from Monteseel

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Ethic inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

There is a bottom pitch which was opened by Sherman Ripley, but this is seldom, if ever, climbed, and best avoided. The top pitch described here is worthwhile, giving steep climbing on good rock. Start at the top of a pinnacle reached by scrambling up a gully (Tree Route) at the extreme eastern end of the main ledge.

Climb up the face from the top of the blocks, moving slightly left at first and then right. Protected by fixed pegs of dubious vintage.

FA: Des Watkins, 1954

2

Start on the clean blocks just to the left of the big roofs below Top Heavy. Climb the face heading slightly left towards the top.

FA: Adam Hanlon and Cavill Vermaak, 1986

3

Start on a short face between Pilgrim’s Progress and Top Heavy. There is a tree root growing across the face that provides protection for the take-off.

(1) A boulder problem start leads to easier ground. Continue up a shallow recess to stance on a huge block.

(2) Climb three metres up the face which is one metre to the right of a shallow corner. Traverse right for two metres and continue up the wall into a scoop to a roof. Break right to exit. Poorly protected.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

4
27 A Touch of Magic Unknown

This very short roof problem takes the obvious break in the roof two metres to the left of Soulbiter. Climb up to the break and move strenuously up to a thin rail. Move left and climb the rubble and vegetation above to the ledge.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1986

5
26 * Soulbiter Unknown

Climbs through the large roofs below the start of Top Heavy i.e. one level below the large ledge. Start at the circle scratched in the rock.

Climb up to below the roof and then up and left to an undercling. Move through the roof following the seam and then on up the face.

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1987

6
19 * Top Heavy Trad

Strenuous and technical, but well protected and offering a variety of climbing on good rock. Deserves more ascents. Start in a corner capped by a huge roof.

Climb the right hand side of the corner and then traverse left onto a ledge. Climb up to a recess and crack which is climbed to a large rail (sustained). Traverse left for two metres and move up diagonally right to a left-slanting recess which is followed to the top.

FA: Colin Shuttleworth and Jill Fothergill, 1971

7

Starts as for Superbrat/Top Heavy. Climb the first moves of Superbrat, but break through the roof immediately to the left of the peg on the lip. Climb the face to a rail and then straight through the bulges above. Finish directly up the face above.

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1987

8
24 * Superbrat Unknown

Starts as for Top Heavy. Climb up to the roof and move out right to a peg on the lip. Pull onto the wall move thinly right to the corner. Follow this to the top. Be warned that the tree in the corner has grown since the climb was opened, and a fall from the crux could result in a nasty encounter with some solid branches.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1981

9
18 Dilemma Unknown

Starts on the wall between Top Heavy and Sweet Fanny Adams. Climb up to a peg below a small roof. Move right and up to the corner level with the roof. Climb the face above, keeping to the left-hand side.

FA: Steve Salmon, 1987

10

A short crack climb with a strenuous take-off. Start in the obvious crack in the corner to the right of Top Heavy. It is advisable for a tall person to place the first runner!

Layback, jam and thrutch up the crack to a ledge. Move left onto a smooth grey face and climb up to a recess on the left-hand side of the large Zig-Zag ledge. Follow the recess (shared initially by Zig-Zag) to the top.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Matt Makowski, 1962

11
18 Reluctant Newton Unknown

The first pitch is poorly protected and the second pitch is scary because of two blocks that appear to be loose. Start below the Zig-Zag ledge, to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams.

(1) Climb the face to the big ledge.

(2) Climb up to the left-hand corner of the roof. Pull through and climb the recess to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

12
18 Long Stop Unknown
13
11 * Zig-Zag Trad

Used to be a standard beginners route, but far too easy for beginners these days.

(1) Climb the obvious left sloping crack to a large ledge with a tree at the left-hand end.

(2) Climb the recess in the corner for one move and traverse left onto the clean face which is climbed to the top.

FA: Charles Axelson, Sherman Ripley and Ted Gathercole, 1940

14

Start on the left-hand side of the Zig-Zag ledge. Climb directly up the face to the right of the start of the second pitch of Zig-Zag, passing a couple of pegs.

FA: Adam Hanlon, 1989

15

Start on the Zig-Zag ledge. Takes the bolted line to the left of Telegraph Road. Technical moves lead to a rail about two metres from the top. Finish as for Telegraph Road.

FA: Grant Murray, 1990

16

Start on the right of the Zig-Zag ledge. Climb the crack past two pegs to a rail. Traverse two metres left and climb the break to the top. A direct finish (23) goes up the wall directly above the second peg.

FA: Chris Jackson, Ian Wallace and Craig Attwell, 1983

17

A strenuous and tricky crux. Climb the first pitch of Pendulum and break though the roof above the stance. Follow the recess above to the top.

FA: Roger Fuggle, Tony Dick and Jim Thomson, 1966

18
14 * Pendulum Trad

A pleasant route. Well protected on good rock. Start at the base of a shallow recess. The word "Pendulum" is painted on the rock.

(1) Pull up to a small ledge. Climb up past a peg and then left across the recess and up to a ledge. Climb the open book to a stance out on the left.

(2) Reverse the move onto the stance and traverse across the smooth face on the right. Continue along an obvious rail to a large flake. Traverse past this to a dead tree and climb directly up to a block. Exit easily above this.

FA: Jim Thomson, Brian Hutchinson and Sherman Ripley, 1966

19

A good route with an interesting crux. Starts in the recess immediately right of Pendulum. Climb up diagonally right to a small open book, and continue above this to the flake on the Pendulum traverse. Climb onto the flake, move left on thin holds and continue to the top.

FA: Alan Manson and Paul Firman, 1980

20
21 * Camel's Direct Unknown

Start as for If Camels Could Climb, but move left at the top of the open book and then pull straight through onto the face.

FA: Gerald Camp and Andrew Russell-Boulton, 1989

21

A direct line up the wall to the right of If Camels Could Climb. Start beneath, and slightly to the left of the tree at the end of the Pendulum traverse.

Climb directly up the broken face through a series of small roofs, passing to the right of a stunted bush. Break onto the face one metre right of the peg and then up the face past the huge flake.

FA: Gerald Camp and Andrew Russell-Boulton, 1988

22

Starts just left of Republic Left Break. Climb the obvious groove with the loose block, onto the wall and up to the rail to the right of the tree. Continue up the wall and and exit right of the Pendulum gully.

FA: Craig Attwell and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

23

Slightly strenuous, but well protected with good moves. Start at a large block on the corner about five metres to the right of Pendulum. The climbing to the large ledge is easy.

Climb up to a small roof, move right and up to the large ledge (Republican stance). Climb the blocks in the back corner of the stance and move left onto the steep face using a flake handhold. Move up to a peg under a small roof and rail left to a small foothold on the corner. Move delicately up for one move to a flake and pull up past this. Move right and continue up a recess to the top.

FA: Roger Fuggle and Tony Dick, 1970

24
21 * Ape Call Unknown

A short pitch from the Republican ledge.

Climb as for Republic Left Break from the ledge to the peg. Pull through the roof and continue to the top.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Adrian Hill, 1982

25
19 ** Pub Lunch Unknown

Very tricky and pumping for its grade. Starts from a boulder below the middle of the Republican traverse. Pull up from the boulder and continue directly up the wall, going through four successive roofs to the top. Whew!

FA: Ian Manson, Chris Leslie-Smith and B. Milne, 1984

26
14 Horizontal Unknown

An interesting move pulling around the roof. Starts in the recess to the left of the Republican start. Climb straight up the recess to under the roof. Pull up and sidestep to the right to bypass the roof. The original route followed the bushy recess above, but it is more worthwhile to finish as for Republic Direct on the edge of the face to the right.

FA: Dave Castro, 1975

27
A1 Opposition Unknown
28
12 * Republican Trad

One of the more popular easier climbs on very good rock. The name is painted at the original start. A worthwhile variation at the same grade is to combine the second pitch with the start of Republic Left Break as a single, more direct pitch.

(1) Climb a crack in the recess, around the corner to the left of the Cain face, for four metres and traverse to the left around a corner into a second recess (taken by Horizontal). Continue traversing left across the face, past a peg under a roof, and up to the prominent ledge on the corner.

(2) Climb up the blocks at the back of the ledge and move right onto a small face up to a small roof and a peg. Move slightly right and then pull up left onto a block. Follow the recess to the top.

FA: Vic Pearson and Brian Hutchinson, 1961

29

This climb has nothing to do with Republican. It starts at an undercut face immediately to the right of the start of Republican.

Pull up strenuously but on good holds to the corner formed by this, and the left-hand edge of the Cain face. Continue up the left-hand edge of the Cain face and finish one metre to the left of Cain.

FA: UNknown, 1960