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Table of contents

1. Monteseel 311 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 30.684401, -29.736371

Unique Features And Strengths:

Monteseel is all Trad climbing on sandstone.

Access Issues:

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply.

Approach:

The Monteseel crags are roughly half way between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. From either city, take the N3 toll road and turn off at the "Hammersdale" off-ramp (exit 34). If approaching from the Pietermaritzburg side, then turn left at the end of the off-ramp, follow the road round a sharp bend and back in the direction of Pietermaritzurg. If approaching from the Durban side, you obviously turn right at the end of the off-ramp, cross the bridge over the N3, then follow the road round the same sharp bend. Continue on for about two kilometres, cross a bridge over a railway line, and then, a couple of hundred metres further, take the turn-off that leads sharply back to the right. This road winds up a hill, past Cordies Hotel (formerly the Colorado) on your right, and reaches a T-junction about a kilometre from the previous turn-off. At the T-junction, turn right and follow the road that winds up to the top of Inchanga Hill. About two kilometres from the T-junction, just before the top of the hill, take the turn to left that is sign-posted "Monteseel". Drive about 100 m up a small hill to another T-junction and turn left into Albert Street. Take the second turn to the right into Seeles Drive. Follow this gravel road for about half a kilometre and park on the side of the road adjacent to a T-junction formed by a gravel road on the right. The Lower Middle Buttress and near Eastern Buttress are barely 50 m away on the left.

Ethic:

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

1.1. Eastern Buttress 195 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.682173, -29.735017

1.1.1. Far Eastern Buttress 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area 20 routes in Area
Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Approach:

These climbs are approached via a steep scramble or abseil at the end of a spur below the view site at the extreme eastern end of the cliffs, i.e. where the road curves away from the cliff and back toward Monteseel village. Alternatively, there is a path that runs along the top of the cliffs for its full length. There is a prominent pole with TV aerials at the top of the slope above the scramble down. The climbs to the west (back toward the hut) are reached via a ledge that runs past Enema at the level of the bottom of the scramble.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Twins 12Unknown
2 * Necrosis

Walk about fifteen metres left (east) from the bottom of the scramble. The climb starts just to the left of a small fig tree growing up against the face. The letters 'NS' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up for a couple of moves to reach a recess. Continue straight up the recess to a small overhang. Side-step this to the right and then move up to another small overhang. Step out to the left to gain the face above the first overhang. Move up and right to reach a shallow recess. Climb this to the top.

Variation: From the second small roof, traverse out to the right for about 3m until the roof merges with the face. From here move straight up a shallow recess to the top.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth and Rich Smithers, 1978

15Trad
3 * Deliverance

The letters 'DE' are painted in yellow at the start which is about 5 m left from the bottom of the scramble. Climb a short recess to the overhang and then traverse left around a corner over two wedged blocks (well tested by a local heavyweight!) to the foot of a large, right-tending ramp. Climb the ramp keeping to the right hand side.

Variation: An alternative (grade 14) is to start from a point below, and slightly to the left, of the wedged blocks. Climb up, tending right and pull up onto the wedged blocks. A move or two to the left gives access to the start of the ramp.

FA: Rich Smithers and Brian Shuttleworth, 1976

13Trad
4 * Technical Ecstasy

This steep, technical route is very photogenic from the scramble down. Start three metres left of Vertigo. Climb up and slightly left to a block. Climb steeply up to the left via two pockets to a rail (crux), then up to the top keeping right of the arete.

FA: Adrian Hill, 1980

20Trad
5 * Clubbing Andre

Date and star grading unknown, but it looks about three star. Follow the bolts up the thin face between Technical Ecstasy and Vertigo.

FA: Simon Dellis

24Sport
6 * Vertigo

Three-quarters of the way down the scramble an obvious recess is seen on the left (looking up the scramble). Climb this and finish directly up the blocky face above. A technical line.

FA: Brian and Colin Shuttleworth, 1976

17Trad
7 Farewell Angelina 16Unknown
8 Enema

Start about 10 m right of the scramble. Climb a short steep section to a large, dirty ledge. Continue up to a cubbyhole beneath a large overhang. Use a foot rail to move out to the right under the roof and then pull through the roof at its right-hand end. Climb to the top on the right hand face. Starting at the yellow letters 'EA' painted on the rock is much harder than grade 14. A start more in keeping with this grade can be achieved by starting about 3 m to the left and then climbing up diagonally to the right to reach the ledge. Not a great line, but worth doing for the excellent moves below and around the roof.

FA: Carless Freer, Roy Gooden and Rodney Owen, 1977

14Trad
9 Apricot Jam

Start five metres to the right of Enema at the foot of a small recess. The letters 'AJ' are painted in yellow at the start. Climb up for five metres and then move left into a small recess with a crack. Move around the bulge above and then left to a small ledge. Finish slightly left up the nose.

FA: Adrian Hill and Roy Gooden, 1981

18Trad
10 * Hot Line

Starts just to the right of Apricot Jam - the letters 'HT' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up the short crack to a ramp just to the right of Apricot Jam. Move left at the overhang onto a ledge and exit up the clean face on the left. Fun moves and well protected.

FA: Roy Gooden and Adrian Hill, 1981

14Trad
11 Bali Hai

Climb the obvious recess with a crack around the corner from Enema.

FA: David Freer, Tim Foley and Caroline Biggs

11Trad
12 Rainy Day Dreamaway

Thirty metres right of the scramble is a recess with a tree at its base. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the recess, moving onto a block beneath a small roof. Pull through roof and finish directly up the face above.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Adrian Jardin, 1980

19Trad
13 * Strawberry Jamb

Towards the right hand side of the ledge there is a big dihedral with a narrow, orange face on the left. This face can be clearly seen from the top of Hot Line. The letters 'SJ' were painted in yellow at the start but it currently looks like 'ST'. Climb straight up to reach a ledge below the start of an obvious fist jam crack. Climb the crack and move to the right near the top. This is hard for a 14 unless you can jam well - a variation more in keeping with the grade is given below.

Variation: Climb up to the ledge below the start of the crack. Move left and climb the corner for a couple of metres until it is possible to move out right on a good foot rail to gain the crack line about halfway up. Continue up the crack moving slightly to the right near the top. Short, but interesting.

FA: Tony Dickens and John Cheesmond, 1974

14Trad
14 Colonel Saunders

Mildly strenuous, but well protected. Beware of loose blocks. Start around the corner from Strawberry Jamb and to the left of the large roofs. Climb up a steep broken face and traverse right below a projecting block. Move up and left into the large recess. Climb this for a few moves and exit to the left.

FA: Tony Dickens and John Cheesmond, 1974

14Trad
15 Et Tu

Climb the recess ten metres to the left of Brutus.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

15Trad
16 Brutus

This line takes the obvious bottomless recess above the ledge. Climb the obvious corner and move out right to rest on the nose. Step left onto two "stepping stones" and then climb up into the bottomless open book, where the quality of the rock improves. Follow the recess to the top.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

18Trad
17 Flabbergasp

(1) Climb up a short face to a stance at the foot of a recess.

(2) Move up the recess to a roof. Finish either to the right up a recess (11) or to the left up a face (15).

FA: Des Watkins, 1955

15Trad
18 Hightime

A difficult take-off is followed by easier climbing. Start five metres right of Flabbergasp. Climb through a bulge to a ledge and then right onto a block. Climb up to the base of a crack and exit up the nose.

FA: Adrian Hill, Roy Gooden and Rodney Owen, 1979

18Trad
19 Athlete's Foot

Start at a small tree three metres to the right of Hightime. Move up to a large ledge, up the big recess and follow the curving crack to another recess. Exit left.

FA: Carless Freer and Roy Gooden, 1979

18Trad
20 Grasp 14Unknown
1.1.1.2. Eviction Area 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

These climbs can be approached by continuing down the Vertigo scramble to reach the true bottom of the cliff. However, it is cleaner and more convenient to abseil onto a ledge from a point approximately 100 m west of the top of the scramble where the edge of the cliff opens up to form a rock platform. This point is between Long Drop and Toe Jam. Codes marking the start of each climb are painted at the bottom of the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Chocolate Tokolosh 11Unknown
2 Long Drop

Abseil onto, or scramble up to the ledge around the corner to the right of Grasp. Climb the recess to a roof and then up the obvious bottomless chimney to the top.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth and Rich Smithers, 1978

14Trad
3 * Toe Jam

This is a worthwhile route on clean rock with an interesting jam crack. Start three metres right of the Long Drop recess. Climb up the face to under the crack in the roof. Break through and jam/climb the crack to a small roof. Traverse right across a slab to the corner. Climb onto a block and then up and left to exit.

FA: Rich Smithers and Ann Hayes, 1978

17Trad
4 * Elephant's Asshole

The route was named because it was high and dirty, but was "wiped clean" to produce a very pleasant route which ought to be a classic. Either abseil onto, or climb up a short steep face to the big ledge about thirteen metres to the right of the Toe Jam corner and to the left of the large square recess taken by New Rope.

Climb the face to an overlap. Pull through this and continue up a short face on the left. Move into the obvious recess and climb this to the top.

FA: Mervyn Gans and Alex Simoni, 1978

14Trad
5 New Rope

Unsustained with interesting moves, but spoiled by some loose blocks on the upper section. Takes the obvious square recess to the right of Elephant’s Asshole. Abseil onto, or climb up to the big ledge. There is a convenient belay tree on the ledge at the base of the recess.

Climb the recess keeping to the left-hand side. Move onto the left corner when the recess steepens, climb up on the left for a few moves and then step right above the steep section to a recess. Beware - the obvious block to pull up on to gain the recess is loose. Climb up using a hold on the left-hand side of the recess, which is followed to the top.

FA: Mervyn Gans, Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1975

13Trad
6 * Eviction

Enjoyable climbing on clean rock - worthwhile. Scramble or abseil onto the ledge to the right of the New Rope recess. Climb the crack on the right to an obvious traverse across a smooth face on the left. Climb the slanting groove and continue to the top.

FA: Mervyn Gans and Adolf Flockemann, 1975

14Trad
7 Call of the Wild

Start on the same ledge as Eviction. Climb up on the right for a few moves, then traverse out left onto the nose. Continue up via good moves onto the face and then up the blank-looking face to the top. Gear is very sparse.

FA: Evan Wiercx and Deon van der Riet, 1989

17Trad
8 Sunset Wall

Start near the corner between Eviction and A Twist of Sand. Climb the steep face, avoiding the roofs, up to a ledge. Follow a crack system to another ledge. Start up a steep wall moving slightly left, and continue straight up to a shallow recess on the right of an obvious nose. Layback up this to the top. The first fifteen metres is easy, but unprotected, and the last ten metres is strenuous and committing.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

18Trad
9 A Twist of Sand

Overgrown at present, but useful as a reference point. Climb a short steep face to an obvious break in a dirty recess. Keep mainly to the left.

FA: Roy Gooden and Rodney Owen, 1979

11Trad
10 Tumbleweed

Climb the big corner and chimney to the right of A Twist of Sand. Take your gardening gloves and hedge clippers to remove the thorn bush.

FA: Roy Gooden and Steve Bradshaw, 1979

13Trad
1.1.1.3. Quality Street Area 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

Best located from the top and approached by an impressive abseil. The path along the top of the eastern cliffs passes between a prominent square-backed, red-coloured recess and a band of rock. There is another square-backed recess about fifty metres further on (eastwards) which contains Tumbleweed and A Twist of Sand. Quality Street lies between these two recesses.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Quality Street

This is an impressive line for its grade.

(1) Climb up an obvious corner to a large ledge. Move up from a small tree and move up and right to gain a small recess. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to a stance at the base of a corner.

(2) Climb the crack in the corner to the roof. Keep traversing left and up to bypass a series of roofs in a lovely position.

FA: John Fantini and Brian Shuttleworth, 1978

16Trad
2 Son of a Gun

Takes the recess right of Quality Street up to the large ledge. Pull onto the face above and continue up a faint recess to beneath the top roofs. Climb through these to the top.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

20Trad
3 * Wall Street

Takes the red wall right of Quality Street. The crux (2nd pitch) is very run out.

(1) Climb the short crack to the right of Son of a Gun to a ledge. Move up diagonally right on blocks to a stance.

(2) Step off left onto a ledge and continue diagonally left to a small ledge. Climb straight up for eight metres and climb the middle of the face to the top.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

18Trad
4 Psychopath

Scramble up to a large ledge at the bottom of the corner.

(1) Climb up the steep corner to below the huge roof, and then up to a small ledge.

(2) Move up from the left-hand side of the ledge for three moves. Move right and finish directly up the face above. Runners are scarce and tricky.

FA: Mike Roberts Rich Smithers and Alan Manson, 1978

20Trad
1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

Reached by abseil down the Tiny’s Toddle/Ballet Mechanique face. About sixty metres west (back towards the hut) of the point where the path passes between a prominent square-backed recess and a band of rock, there is a blocky shoulder above a prominent clean east-facing wall. A bolt is clearly visible on the Ballet Mechanique face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mother's Day

The only true chimney climb at Monteseel, with an exciting exit. Good for rainy days if you’re desperate to climb or can't afford to go to the pub! Climb the chimney to the left of the Tiny’s Toddle ledge. Stay well inside until forced to traverse out to exit around a block.

FA: Des Watkins, Rae Adams, Hugh Carbutt, Maureen Thomson, Pam Leppan, 1959

12Trad
2 Umgodoy

Takes the wall just right of Mother’s Day. Protection is tricky

FA: Paul Firman and Alan Manson, 1979

19Trad
3 * Pandora's Box

Start three metres left of Tiny’s Toddle. Climb straight up the wall to exit left of the roof at the top. Gear is very sparse.

FA: Andrew Russell-Boulton, 1988

20Trad
4 ** Tiny's Toddle

This is a Monteseel classic. It is fairly sustained, but is well protected. The climb takes the corner capped by a roof. Climb the crack in the corner from the ledge to just under a bulge. Bypass this by traversing left onto the face and then up to exit right under the roof.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Tony Ferrar, 1962

14Trad
5 ** Ballet Mecanique

Takes the smooth wall right of Tiny’s Toddle. Start at the right hand edge of the ledge and climb directly up past a peg and a bolt to exit slightly right. Friends ½ to 1½ are useful.

FA: Gerald Camp and Egmont Goedeke, 1988

23Trad
6 The Archetypal Herbivore

Start as for Ballet Mechanique. Climb the corners and roofs to the right. Move around the corner at the last roof and exit up the short off-width crack.

FA: Gerald Camp, 1988

18Trad
7 Fulcrum

Start around the corner from The Archetypal Herbivore. Climb the short face underneath the overhang, and traverse left and up onto a ledge. Follow the recess above, move left and continue up to gain another ledge. Take the break to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Rich Smithers, 1978

15Trad
8 Just a Touch 15Unknown
9 Paper Plates and Crumbs

The route is better than its name suggests. Normally reached by scrambling onto a large ledge about twenty metres to the right of the climb and walking along to below the corner. Climb up from the ledge to the crack in the corner, which is followed to the top. Sustained.

FA: Paul Firman and Alan Manson, 1979

17Trad
10 Lonely Line

A pleasant crux on an otherwise arbitrary route. Take the obvious jam crack seven metres right of Paper Plates and Crumbs. Finish directly above.

FA: Alan Manson and Paul Firman, 1979

17Trad

1.1.2. Central Eastern Buttress 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area 28 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

Black Diedre takes the obvious dark, west-facing corner that is clearly visible from the path along the top of the cliff. Climbs in this area are best reached by abseil. The usual ab point is the large fig tree in the corner above Virgin (about fifty metres west of Black Diedre). From here it is possible to traverse along a narrow ledge to avoid the bush at the bottom of the crag. . There are several other convenient ab points at various points along the top of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Big Pink Stiff One

About thirty paces on the eastern side of Black Diedre is a single bolt belay at the top of the crag. The climb is directly below and is protected by three bolts, a number 1½ Friend and a no 5 Rock. The first ascentionist bets that you don’t flash it!

FA: A. Lamming, 1993

25Mixed 3
2 Coma 19Unknown
3 First Class ?Unknown
4 Cadenza

Strenuous and not so well protected. Start two metres left of New Hoek. Climb up a vague crack for two metres and then traverse left on small holds to the edge of the face. Climb directly up to a small ledge and then finish up the face above. As a variation, climb straight up a shallow recess from the start and then traverse left to the original line.

FA: Adrian Hill, 1978

18Trad
5 Impulse 14Unknown
6 * New Hoek

An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face.

FA: Tony Ferrar, 1963

11Trad
7 ** Gentle Aquarian

A classic. Sustained and steep in a great position. Start three metres right of New Hoek, around the corner. Pull up around a bulge and climb directly up a steep break to a small ledge. Climb a short face past a peg and then move left onto the corner. Follow a crack to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts, Mervyn Gans and Carless Freer, 1977

17Trad
8 * Gemini Dream

Start in the obvious corner two metres to the right of Gentle Aquarian. Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left and up to reach a small ledge. Climb up the face heading slightly left to reach a peg. Move up to reach another ledge and then traverse right for two metres, where the route touches on Black Diedre. Move back left around the corner to a thin crack which is followed to the top.

FA: Roy Gooden and Steve Bradshaw, 1982

17Trad
9 ** Black Diedre

A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff.

Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

14Trad
10 * The Fire Still Remains

Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top.

FA: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1989

19Trad
11 ** Free Ride

This route follows the old aid route Middle Age opened by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth in the early 70’s. Start on a small ledge about six metres up and to the right of the start to Black Diedre. It is best to belay from the lower ledge.

Climb diagonally right to the middle of the wall and then up to an obvious rail. Move up and right to exit up a shallow groove.

FA: Mike Roberts, Ian Wallace and Charl Brummer, 1979

17Unknown
12 * A Cold Fact

Start as for Stormbringer. Climb up the face to a peg. Climb directly up the face above to a rail, passing a blade peg to the right. Finish up the same groove as Free Ride. Led out and sustained.

FA: Gerald Camp, 1988

18Trad
13 Stormbringer

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1980

22Trad
14 ** Fingertip Trip

Start in the faint recess ten metres to the left of Old Man’s Climb.

(1) Climb diagonally left to break through a roof and continue on thin holds to the corner. Climb up the wall to the big ledge.

(2) Climb the vague recess on the right hand side of the ledge. Technically overgraded due to lack of protection on this pitch.

FFA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

23Trad
15 * Old Man's Climb

One of Monteseel’s classic climbs. Start at the base of an undercut open book.

(1) Pull up into the open book recess and follow this for five metres and then traverse left past two pegs under an overhang to a corner. Move up the corner for three metres and traverse left onto the ledge.

(2) Climb the obvious recess from the ledge, or alternatively climb the face diagonally to the right (15), which offers excellent, but unprotected climbing.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

16Trad
16 ** Old Man's Climb Direct

Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position.

Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue directly up to the top.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth and Carless Freer, 1978

17Trad
17 * Youngster's Line

Originally opened with two points of aid. A direct and steep line. Start five metres to the right of Old Man’s Climb. Pull through a small overhang and climb up to a small ledge at the base of a small roof. Pull through the roof into a steep recess and up to a tree about five metres higher. Continue up the break for three metres and then traverse right past two pegs to a shallow scoop. Exit diagonally to the left.

FA: MTony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1970

FFA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1978

20Trad
18 Lurkules

Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss and Mike Hislop, 1989

19Trad
19 Generation Gap

Start in the big corner right of Youngster’s Line. Climb the large crack/chimney to an obvious traverse onto the left hand wall. At the end of the traverse, climb up and break through the roof to finish. The second half is better than the first.

FA: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

18Trad
20 * Microphobia

A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit.

FA: Alan Manson, Paul Firman and Pete Muir, 1979

19Trad
21 * Whippersnapper

A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left.

FA: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1976

19Trad
22 ** Highball Shooter

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

22Trad
23 Slut

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1983

22Trad
24 * Sister Morphine

Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1989

23Trad
25 Virgin

Takes the crack in the corner below the abseil (fig) tree. Climb a short broken section past a tree to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, exiting slightly right to avoid a bulge near the top. Considerably harder if you face the wrong way.

FA: Sherman Ripley, Jim Pike and Jim Thomson, 1968

13Trad
26 * Goofball Crack

Good climbing on both pitches, but watch out as some 18’s are harder than others.

(1) From the large blocks, climb a shallow openbook and take a break through the overhang to a ledge. Traverse left around a jammed block and climb another shallow recess to a large ledge. Avoid the rotten recess on the extreme left.

(2) Climb the finger crack to a jammed block. Climb past this and move left to finish up another crack.

FA: Mike Roberts and Shaun Peard, 1978

18Trad
27 Burnt Hands

The name refers to an unexpected fall on the first ascent. Start from some blocks to the left of Goofball Crack, directly below a large overhang.

(1) Climb up to the overhang, traverse left to a recess and climb this to a large ledge. The first eight metres is tricky to protect.

(2) Traverse left and up a ramp to gain a small corner on the right. Pull through to easier ground and exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden, 1977

15Trad
28 Last Rite

Start from the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Burnt Hands. Climb the crack in the corner on the right.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

17Trad
1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

Best approached by abseil to a ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pink Void

Start on a huge block. Climb up a steep section and then on easier rock to an old peg. Traverse left and then up another steep section to a second peg beneath a small roof at the base of a blank wall. Traverse left on a poor rail to a crack and climb the face above to a ledge. Move right and exit up a steep recess.

FA: Adrian Hill and Steve Asbury, 1978

18Trad
2 Moon Walk

An easy line through an impressive overhang. Start about twenty five metres right of Pink Void and scramble up the obvious fault with a tree in it. Traverse to below a huge roof and follow the crack through this to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

16Trad
3 Love of the Common People

Takes the impressive wall left of The Great Unwashed. Start at the tree at the bottom. Climb up blocks to a rail then diagonally left to a smooth face. Climb this on fragile holds to a rail and then into a cubbyhole to the right of a small cave. Move out right onto good rock, up for five metres and then back left to a rail and up to exit.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

21Trad
4 The Great Unwashed

Steep, but unsustained with some pleasant climbing. Needs occasional gardening, but worth the effort. Start further down on the left-hand side of the same ledge as Afternoon/Morning Tea.

Climb the broken recess to a cubbyhole under the small overhang. Pull through this on the right and then move back left to a crack. Climb this to the top.

FA: Colin Shuttleworth, 1970

16Trad
5 Afternoon Tea

A short climb with a pleasant finish. Climb the crack in the corner to the right of The Great Unwashed until it is possible to traverse out right onto the face, which is followed to the top. Alternatively, continue up the crack.

FA: Jim MacInnes and Jim Thomson, 1962

13Trad
6 Morning Tea

A short, but steep crack climb. Climb the crack in the face to the right of Afternoon Tea. Exit slightly right up a small face. This route was originally graded at 15, but has been changed to 17 by consensus.

FA: Alan Whittaker and Dave Cheesmond, 1971

15Trad
7 * Champagne Breakfast

Climb the face and arete to the right of Morning Tea. Two pegs.

FA: Steve Salmon, 1989

17Trad
8 Nuke the Gay Whales

Start on the left of the ledge below Morning Tea. Climb up the flake line to a rail, move left and continue up to a large jug. Move back right to a rail and finish straight up.

FA: Mike Hislop and Cathy O’ Dowd, 1989

21Trad
1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area 11 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

Approaced by abseil, or by continuing the scramble down the Owl ledge past Winnie the Pooh.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Galadriel

Takes the obvious recess (with tree) to the west of Morning Tea.

(1) Start directly below the recess and climb the face, moving diagonally right below a thorn tree to a big ledge.

(2) Climb the face on the left at the bottom of the recess. Move right into the corner and climb through the tree into a wide crack. Continue up this and exit right at the top.

FA: Gary Zank, Nick Nevin, Roy Gooden and Adrian Hill, 1981

15Trad
2 No Lunch

Worth doing for the crux on the second pitch, which is spectacular.

(1) Climb up a small recess and traverse left across a smooth face. Climb up, heading right, to a stance. Poorly protected.

(2) Climb up the recess and traverse right across the steep wall. Hand-swing around the corner and exit up a small recess.

FA: Norman Hart and Tony Goodyear, 1970

15Trad
3 ** Slave to the Rhythm

A long, thirty metre line up the face to the left of Eskumbu. Start below a peg, then up past a bolt to a rail. Continue up to a short, overhanging wall then straight up past a blade to the smooth face with two bolts. Finish up the open book.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

26Mixed 3
4 * Eskumbu

First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.

(1) Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the base of an open book.

(2) Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point. Climb easily to the top.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

FFA: Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden, 1976

19Trad
5 * Fragmentation

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

(1) Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

(2) Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts, Brian Shuttleworth and Roy Gooden, 1978

19Trad
6 Skullduggery

Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain.

FA: Rich Smithers and John Fantini, 1978

19Trad
7 * Tantalus

An excellent top pitch with a fine exit. The route takes the obvious big corner to the right of Fragmentation.

(1) Several lines exist, the best being to climb slightly left into a break and then tend right to the base of the big corner.

(2) Climb up the corner to the big roof and exit right on an off-balance ramp.

FA: Tony Goodyear, 1964

17Trad
8 Obsession

Poor rock in parts. Starts just left of a recess.

(1) Climb up left of a few stepped blocks to reach a thin crack. Move right into the top of the recess and pull up. Continue right to under an overhang which is bypassed on the right. Move back left to a large ledge.

(2) Climb the open book above to an overhang. Traverse right across a slab and up through a "vee" break to a ledge. Continue up the crack to the top.

FA: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

20Trad
9 Owl 9Unknown
10 Ramble 17Unknown
11 * Tired Geddon

First free ascent: John Fantini and Rich Smithers, 1978

Originally an aid route, it was freed to provide a spectacular route through impressive roofs on both pitches. Starts in the corner under the huge roofs.

(1) Climb up the corner and traverse out to the lip. Pull up to a broad ledge. Climb diagonally right and then back left to avoid the second roof. Climb up a short recess to a stance.

(2) Climb the open book to the roof. Pull through the roof into a small recess and continue to the top.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1969

21Trad
1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Approach:

Reached by scrambling down from a shoulder approximately thirty metres east of Hot Head, to a blocky ledge, known as the Owl ledge and scramble.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Space Truckin'

Airy and exposed. Start on the Owl scramble ledge. Climb past a peg to a rail. Traverse left along this to just before the end of the face. Climb a shallow recess from a small ledge past a wedged block. Climb diagonally left and exit by moving around the corner to finish up the last two metres of Tired Geddon.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

17Trad
2 * Magrathea

The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge.

Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle

FFA: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Grant Cockburn, 1988

19Trad
3 * Eroticon Six

Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds.

FA: Andrew Russell-Boulton and Gerald Camp, 1988

18Trad
4 Crumble 14Unknown
5 ** Winnie-the-Pooh

Excellent climbing on a steep wall, and a good test of nerve for the leader. Start on the Owl ledge as for Space Truckin’.

Climb up past the peg and follow a diagonal line of good incut finger holds to the base of a recess on the right (unprotected between the peg and recess, but a bomb-proof wire can be placed in the rail by moving slightly left after passing the peg). Climb the recess to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

16Trad
6 ** The Leper Messiah

Start two metres right of Winnie-the-Pooh.

Climb straight up on micro-thin edges past two bolts, and then up just right of a crack to a rail. Step right at the rail and then up the wall past a crescent-shaped pocket.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

24Mixed 2
7 ** Tight Arsed Egomaniacs

Start right of The Leper Messiah next to a small open book. Climb up past a rail to a second rail. Climb straight up past two bolts to the top.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

23Mixed 2
8 The Wizard of Froboz

Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs

FA: Tim Goodwin and Evan Wiercx, 1985

18Trad
1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

Reached by abseil, or by scrambling down the crack in a corner below the first sloping shoulder to the east of the central climbing area. This crack was originally a climb called Cold Feet (8). Traverse left along the obvious large foot rail on a grey west-facing face to a corner and scramble down around the corner to the blocky ledge below the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Supercillian Connection

Take the first break to the left of Foreign Intervention and Hot Head. Climb the recess to a steep face, and then past two pegs to finish.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Andrew Ashford-Jack

21Trad
2 * Foreign Intervention

Start at the end of the blocky ledge, two metres left of Hot Head. Climb directly up into the crack which is visible to the right of Hot Head, between Hot Head and Zzed Aversion. Contrived but worthwhile.

FA: C. Edelstein, C. Curson and S. Brown, 1985

20Trad
3 ** Hot Head

Enjoyable climbing on good, clean rock. Start at a large block on the left of the ledge. Climb up from the ledge to a peg in a blind crack. Step left across the crack and continue straight up to a rail below a recess. Climb the recess and mantleshelf onto a block. Exit up and to the left.

FA: Vic Pearson and Jim Thomson, 1968

12Trad
4 * Zzed Aversion

First ascent: Gerald Camp, 1989

Start as for Hot Head. Climb up to the rail, just to the left of Sizzle. Climb up to the bolt, and then up to a jug on thin holds. Continue to a peg and then move one metre left to exit up the slight recess.

FA: Gerald Camp, 1989

25Mixed 1
5 ** Sizzle

Originally an aid route opened by Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and G. Evans in the early 1960’s, but freed to produce a well protected fine face and crack climb with some great moves. Start on a block on the right of the ledge.

Climb up a short slab-like face to a small roof. Move right and then left to gain the crack which is followed until it ends. Move left for one move onto the wall and exit straight up.

FA: Sherman Ripley, Jim Thomson and G. Evans

FFA: Mike Roberts, 1978

20Trad
6 * Frazzle

Starts from the same block as Sizzle. Climb up to a peg, pull through the roof and continue up to a bolt. Finish slightly to the right on thin holds.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

22Mixed 1
7 * Dazzle

Start to the right of Frazzle. Climb the crack/groove onto a block. Climb directly up the wall above the bolt. A very small friend or TCU protects the exit.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

24Mixed 1
8 Fit to Burst

A contrived but pleasant climb to the left of the Hot Seat flakes. This is possibly a much older route called No Breakfast. Start at the base of a shallow recess (below Dazzle) two metres left of a prominent fig tree on the scramble down.

Climb the recess to a prominent block on the face to the right. Traverse around the block and move up and right to the Hot Seat blocks. Continue up the face keeping to the left of the blocks.

FA: Chris Leslie-Smith and Ian Manson, 1984

15Trad
9 Hot Seat

Pleasant but very short. Beware - the middle flake is loose, and will take a downward, but not an outward pull. Climb the large flakes to the right of Sizzle.

FA: Dawn Bremner and Sherman Ripley, 1965

10Trad
10 Cold Feet

The scramble down - typically down-soloed, be careful.

8Trad
11 Warm Knees

Short but pleasant. Climb up the middle of the narrow grey face between the Cold Feet scramble and the Hot Seat flakes.

FA: Gavin Peckham, Neil Peckham and Frank Boase, 1993

10Trad
1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

Reached via the Cold Feet scramble as for the Hot Head/Sizzle area, but continuing down the scramble to the base of the cliff on the right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Planet Claire

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, J. Roth and Grant Murray, 1988

22Trad
2 Satellite

Start six metres right of the Cold Feet scramble. Climb up a black streak to a rail. Move up and left to a small ledge. Climb up the shallow recess to the small roof and move left onto a steep face. Climb this to the top. Do not exit to the left.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

21Trad
3 ** Flaming Desperation

Start two metres to the right of Satellite. Boulder up the wall to the wide rail and then up to the next big rail. Pull up to the base of the groove right of Satellite (peg). Move right and then up the wall tending left, keeping just right of the groove. Exit at the block hanging over the lip. Very pumping.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

26Trad
4 * An Instant in the Wind

Start next to the pillar from which Wild Sky starts. Climb the easy wall to the left to a detached block (peg). Pull over the bulge and climb up to a small roof and up the groove past another peg.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

24Trad
5 ** The Flames of Sunset

Start on the extreme left of the Wild Sky ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the first small roof (the protruding block is just to the left). Traverse right, then up the wall via berserk moves to a jug. Move left beneath the second small roof to a huge jug and then up the wall to exit slightly right on white rock.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1985

25Trad
6 * The Flames of Sunset Direct

Instead of wandering back and forth, climb straight up using long reaches.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

25Trad
7 ** Wild Sky

A superbly bouldery route. Start near the left of the ledge below a bolt.

Climb up through the bulge above and up to a small roof. Move slightly right to the peg and up to a rail. Up one move diagonally left into the centre of the wall and exit past a ledge. Unfortunately this route has subsequently been damaged by lightening and now sports a death run out after the crux.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

26Trad
8 Dark Side of the Moon

Starts ten metres right of Satellite, on the ledge. Climb the obvious recess in the middle of the face. Break onto the face above to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1980

21Trad
9 * Daylight Again

Start as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster, moving left on a contorted traverse below the roof. Climb up right and pull through the roof to a peg. Climb the wall above, past a manky bolt, on micro-thin holds to the top.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Chris Jackson, 1984

27Mixed 1
10 * Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster

Start about three metres right of Dark Side of the Moon. Climb through bulges to the obvious rail. Move right around the corner, and then up the face to finish up the shallow recess above.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

20Trad
11 * Sidewinder

Starts just left of the last pitch of Pilgrim’s Progress. Climb diagonally left to exit up the shallow recess as for Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster.

FA: Pete Muir, Ian Macdonald and Shaun Peard, 1979

17Trad

1.1.3. Near Eastern Buttress 74 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.681986, -29.734850

1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area 29 routes in Area
Summary:
Trad and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pilgrim's Progress

There is a bottom pitch which was opened by Sherman Ripley, but this is seldom, if ever, climbed, and best avoided. The top pitch described here is worthwhile, giving steep climbing on good rock. Start at the top of a pinnacle reached by scrambling up a gully (Tree Route) at the extreme eastern end of the main ledge.

Climb up the face from the top of the blocks, moving slightly left at first and then right. Protected by fixed pegs of dubious vintage.

FA: Des Watkins, 1954

14Trad
2 Life's a Bitch

Start on the clean blocks just to the left of the big roofs below Top Heavy. Climb the face heading slightly left towards the top.

FA: Adam Hanlon and Cavill Vermaak, 1986

15Trad
3 Fringe of Freedom

Start on a short face between Pilgrim’s Progress and Top Heavy. There is a tree root growing across the face that provides protection for the take-off.

(1) A boulder problem start leads to easier ground. Continue up a shallow recess to stance on a huge block.

(2) Climb three metres up the face which is one metre to the right of a shallow corner. Traverse right for two metres and continue up the wall into a scoop to a roof. Break right to exit. Poorly protected.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

21Trad
4 A Touch of Magic

This very short roof problem takes the obvious break in the roof two metres to the left of Soulbiter. Climb up to the break and move strenuously up to a thin rail. Move left and climb the rubble and vegetation above to the ledge.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1986

27Unknown
5 * Soulbiter

Climbs through the large roofs below the start of Top Heavy i.e. one level below the large ledge. Start at the circle scratched in the rock.

Climb up to below the roof and then up and left to an undercling. Move through the roof following the seam and then on up the face.

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1987

26Unknown
6 * Top Heavy

Strenuous and technical, but well protected and offering a variety of climbing on good rock. Deserves more ascents. Start in a corner capped by a huge roof.

Climb the right hand side of the corner and then traverse left onto a ledge. Climb up to a recess and crack which is climbed to a large rail (sustained). Traverse left for two metres and move up diagonally right to a left-slanting recess which is followed to the top.

FA: Colin Shuttleworth and Jill Fothergill, 1971

19Trad
7 ** Knives in the Moon

Starts as for Superbrat/Top Heavy. Climb the first moves of Superbrat, but break through the roof immediately to the left of the peg on the lip. Climb the face to a rail and then straight through the bulges above. Finish directly up the face above.

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1987

24Unknown
8 * Superbrat

Starts as for Top Heavy. Climb up to the roof and move out right to a peg on the lip. Pull onto the wall move thinly right to the corner. Follow this to the top. Be warned that the tree in the corner has grown since the climb was opened, and a fall from the crux could result in a nasty encounter with some solid branches.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1981

24Unknown
9 Dilemma

Starts on the wall between Top Heavy and Sweet Fanny Adams. Climb up to a peg below a small roof. Move right and up to the corner level with the roof. Climb the face above, keeping to the left-hand side.

FA: Steve Salmon, 1987

18Unknown
10 * Sweet Fanny Adams

A short crack climb with a strenuous take-off. Start in the obvious crack in the corner to the right of Top Heavy. It is advisable for a tall person to place the first runner!

Layback, jam and thrutch up the crack to a ledge. Move left onto a smooth grey face and climb up to a recess on the left-hand side of the large Zig-Zag ledge. Follow the recess (shared initially by Zig-Zag) to the top.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Matt Makowski, 1962

17Trad
11 Reluctant Newton

The first pitch is poorly protected and the second pitch is scary because of two blocks that appear to be loose. Start below the Zig-Zag ledge, to the right of Sweet Fanny Adams.

(1) Climb the face to the big ledge.

(2) Climb up to the left-hand corner of the roof. Pull through and climb the recess to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

18Unknown
12 Long Stop 18Unknown
13 * Zig-Zag

Used to be a standard beginners route, but far too easy for beginners these days.

(1) Climb the obvious left sloping crack to a large ledge with a tree at the left-hand end.

(2) Climb the recess in the corner for one move and traverse left onto the clean face which is climbed to the top.

FA: Charles Axelson, Sherman Ripley and Ted Gathercole, 1940

11Trad
14 * Sunset Boulevard

Start on the left-hand side of the Zig-Zag ledge. Climb directly up the face to the right of the start of the second pitch of Zig-Zag, passing a couple of pegs.

FA: Adam Hanlon, 1989

21Trad
15 * A Seal's Life is Short, Hard and Brutish

Start on the Zig-Zag ledge. Takes the bolted line to the left of Telegraph Road. Technical moves lead to a rail about two metres from the top. Finish as for Telegraph Road.

FA: Grant Murray, 1990

24Unknown
16 ** Telegraph Road

Start on the right of the Zig-Zag ledge. Climb the crack past two pegs to a rail. Traverse two metres left and climb the break to the top. A direct finish (23) goes up the wall directly above the second peg.

FA: Chris Jackson, Ian Wallace and Craig Attwell, 1983

23Trad
17 Pendulum Direct

A strenuous and tricky crux. Climb the first pitch of Pendulum and break though the roof above the stance. Follow the recess above to the top.

FA: Roger Fuggle, Tony Dick and Jim Thomson, 1966

18Trad
18 * Pendulum

A pleasant route. Well protected on good rock. Start at the base of a shallow recess. The word "Pendulum" is painted on the rock.

(1) Pull up to a small ledge. Climb up past a peg and then left across the recess and up to a ledge. Climb the open book to a stance out on the left.

(2) Reverse the move onto the stance and traverse across the smooth face on the right. Continue along an obvious rail to a large flake. Traverse past this to a dead tree and climb directly up to a block. Exit easily above this.

FA: Jim Thomson, Brian Hutchinson and Sherman Ripley, 1966

14Trad
19 ** If Camels Could Climb

A good route with an interesting crux. Starts in the recess immediately right of Pendulum. Climb up diagonally right to a small open book, and continue above this to the flake on the Pendulum traverse. Climb onto the flake, move left on thin holds and continue to the top.

FA: Alan Manson and Paul Firman, 1980

18Trad
20 * Camel's Direct

Start as for If Camels Could Climb, but move left at the top of the open book and then pull straight through onto the face.

FA: Gerald Camp and Andrew Russell-Boulton, 1989

21Unknown
21 Then Elephants Could Dyno

A direct line up the wall to the right of If Camels Could Climb. Start beneath, and slightly to the left of the tree at the end of the Pendulum traverse.

Climb directly up the broken face through a series of small roofs, passing to the right of a stunted bush. Break onto the face one metre right of the peg and then up the face past the huge flake.

FA: Gerald Camp and Andrew Russell-Boulton, 1988

18Trad
22 The Tears Behind Your Eyes

Starts just left of Republic Left Break. Climb the obvious groove with the loose block, onto the wall and up to the rail to the right of the tree. Continue up the wall and and exit right of the Pendulum gully.

FA: Craig Attwell and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

18Unknown
23 * Republic Left Break

Slightly strenuous, but well protected with good moves. Start at a large block on the corner about five metres to the right of Pendulum. The climbing to the large ledge is easy.

Climb up to a small roof, move right and up to the large ledge (Republican stance). Climb the blocks in the back corner of the stance and move left onto the steep face using a flake handhold. Move up to a peg under a small roof and rail left to a small foothold on the corner. Move delicately up for one move to a flake and pull up past this. Move right and continue up a recess to the top.

FA: Roger Fuggle and Tony Dick, 1970

17Trad
24 * Ape Call

A short pitch from the Republican ledge.

Climb as for Republic Left Break from the ledge to the peg. Pull through the roof and continue to the top.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Adrian Hill, 1982

21Unknown
25 ** Pub Lunch

Very tricky and pumping for its grade. Starts from a boulder below the middle of the Republican traverse. Pull up from the boulder and continue directly up the wall, going through four successive roofs to the top. Whew!

FA: Ian Manson, Chris Leslie-Smith and B. Milne, 1984

19Unknown
26 Horizontal

An interesting move pulling around the roof. Starts in the recess to the left of the Republican start. Climb straight up the recess to under the roof. Pull up and sidestep to the right to bypass the roof. The original route followed the bushy recess above, but it is more worthwhile to finish as for Republic Direct on the edge of the face to the right.

FA: Dave Castro, 1975

14Unknown
27 Opposition A1Unknown
28 * Republican

One of the more popular easier climbs on very good rock. The name is painted at the original start. A worthwhile variation at the same grade is to combine the second pitch with the start of Republic Left Break as a single, more direct pitch.

(1) Climb a crack in the recess, around the corner to the left of the Cain face, for four metres and traverse to the left around a corner into a second recess (taken by Horizontal). Continue traversing left across the face, past a peg under a roof, and up to the prominent ledge on the corner.

(2) Climb up the blocks at the back of the ledge and move right onto a small face up to a small roof and a peg. Move slightly right and then pull up left onto a block. Follow the recess to the top.

FA: Vic Pearson and Brian Hutchinson, 1961

12Trad
29 * Republic Direct

This climb has nothing to do with Republican. It starts at an undercut face immediately to the right of the start of Republican.

Pull up strenuously but on good holds to the corner formed by this, and the left-hand edge of the Cain face. Continue up the left-hand edge of the Cain face and finish one metre to the left of Cain.

FA: UNknown, 1960

15Trad
1.1.3.2. The Think Area 18 routes in Crag
Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Monteseel is all Trad climbing on sandstone.

Access Issues:

No form of booking, notification or registration is required to climb at Monteseel. Although the public currently has right of access to these crags, the usual norms of civilised behaviour obviously still apply

Approach:

The Monteseel crags are roughly half way between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. From either city, take the N3 toll road and turn off at the "Hammersdale" off-ramp (exit 34). If approaching from the Pietermaritzburg side, then turn left at the end of the off-ramp, follow the road round a sharp bend and back in the direction of Pietermaritzurg. If approaching from the Durban side, you obviously turn right at the end of the off-ramp, cross the bridge over the N3, then follow the road round the same sharp bend. Continue on for about two kilometres, cross a bridge over a railway line, and then, a couple of hundred metres further, take the turn-off that leads sharply back to the right. This road winds up a hill, past Cordies Hotel (formerly the Colorado) on your right, and reaches a T-junction about a kilometre from the previous turn-off. At the T-junction, turn right and follow the road that winds up to the top of Inchanga Hill. About two kilometres from the T-junction, just before the top of the hill, take the turn to left that is sign-posted "Monteseel". Drive about 100 m up a small hill to another T-junction and turn left into Albert Street. Take the second turn to the right into Seeles Drive. Follow this gravel road for about half a kilometre and park on the side of the road adjacent to a T-junction formed by a gravel road on the right. The Lower Middle Buttress and near Eastern Buttress are barely 50 m away on the left.

Ethic:

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are dammaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectfull.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eve

The line that sticks mainly to the left of the face left of Cain.

FA: Unknown

11Trad
2 ** Cain

The standard beginners route on excellent rock. Takes the furthest, obvious easy angled face visible from the path that leads down between the Eastern and the Lower Middle Buttresses. Start just left of a small tree below a big corner. Climb directly up the middle of the face and exit up the shallow crack.

FA: UNknown

10Trad
3 * Adam

An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top.

FA: Des Watkins, 1960

14Trad 18m
4 *** Child of Darkness

A superb route on a steep wall. Start as for Adam. Pull through the small triangular roof and continue up the wall keeping to the left of the Think Twice corner. Move left and then up to the bolt. Finish up the break.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1985

25Unknown
5 * Child of Darkness Direct

Instead of moving left at the bolt on Child of Darkness, move right and finish directly onto the block above the Think Twice finish. There is a three metre runout at the top.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1985

24Trad
6 * Think Twice

A good route with an interesting crux. Harder for people of restricted growth. Start on the same blocks as for Adam.

Climb the steep face to a peg and continue up the recess to a roof. Pull through the overhang, initially using a crack on the right, and then move left onto the face and up onto the block.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1968

18Trad
7 ** Think

One of the most popular routes at the crag, and one which lives up to its name. This gently overhung face is usually the culmination of any beginner’s first day at the crags. Start slightly right of Think Twice, below a block jutting out of the face above.

Climb the steep face on good holds to a thin ledge with a peg on the left. Continue straight up and move right onto the obvious block. Climb directly up to the top exiting up a steep crack.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Jim Thomson, 1963

16Trad
8 Think Thrice

Start on the block to the right and slightly below the start of Think. Climb the face past the peg to the small ledge. Pass the block above on the right hand side. Finish up the same crack as Think.

FA: Andy Alcock and Bryan Cooke, 1988

18Unknown 14m
9 * No Feet

The original line, opened by Archie Cockburn in 1956, takes the corner with the tree and traverses left near the top to finish up a recess. It has been superseded by a much better line up the middle of the face which is well protected with small to medium wires and Friends, contrary to statements in previous guides. Takes the face around the corner to the right of Think.

Climb diagonally left for a few moves and then move right to the middle of the face. Continue straight up finishing on the right hand side of a prominent block at the top.

FA: Unknown, 1975

13Trad
10 * Nog High

A steep traverse in a fine position. Start in the corner of the No Feet face below a tree. Climb the corner to just past the tree. Step right onto the face at the level of the obvious hand rail. Traverse at this level until it is possible to climb up diagonally right to a cubbyhole on the corner. Move around the corner and climb the vague crack in the face to the top.

FA: Tony Ferrar and Arthur Aylen, 1960

12Trad
11 * Nog Low

A variation of Nog High using its foot rail (at the level of the tree) as a hand rail.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Jim Thomson, 1961

15Trad
12 * Noggon

Contrived, but technical with some good moves. Start as for Nog High and continue on this climb until four metres along the traverse from the tree. Climb straight up from this point keeping left of the shallow open book. Move right to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Pete Muir, 1978

22Unknown
13 ** Sleep of Unreason

Start as for White Rider/Stalking the Nightmare to the blank section with two bolts. Thin moves past the bolts lead to the top

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

27Sport
14 * Stalking the Nightmare

Start as for White Rider, breaking throught the roof at the slight recess directly above the layaway start. Climb the face above to the last rail, and then finish as for White Rider.

FA: Evan Wiercx, 1988

26Unknown
15 ** White Rider

Probably the first route of this grade in South Africa. Starts below a short face to the left of a section of crumbly rotten rock. Climb the short face up to the roof using a layaway. Move slightly right and pull desperately onto the wall above. Continue straight up the face and finish as for Noggon.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1981

26Unknown
16 * Silverado

Start as for Powderfinger. Pull through the roof between White Rider and Powderfinger. Thin moves past a peg lead to good rails. Finish as for White Rider.

FA: Rogers Natrass, 1989

25Unknown
17 ** Powderfinger

A very popular route that lives up to its name - follow the splodges. Climb the recess on the left-hand side of the crumbly rock and pull through the roof onto the wall above. Continue past a flake to the Nog High rail. Move left and pull through the roof above to finish straight up.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, Andy de Klerk and Andrew Forsyth, 1983

22Unknown
18 Awaiting His Return

Start as for Powderfinger but step right at the roof and then continue up the face above. Finish about two metres right of Powderfinger.

FA: D. Woods, 1992

20Unknown
1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area 27 routes in Area
Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.681118, -29.734850

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 None

On the face left of Adams Ap.

12Unknown
2 * Adam's Apoplexy

An excellent beginner’s route and probably every local climber’s first lead (or midnight solo). Takes the first big, easy angled corner visible from the path. Pull up on a blocky flake to a small ledge and follow the layback crack to the top.

FA: Des Watkins, 1953

12Trad
3 * Adam's Apoplexy Variation

A short variation with some technical moves on steep rock. Rarely led, but worth a top rope at least. The pegs are useless.

Climb Adam’s Apoplexy to the small ledge before the final moves (about 3/4 up). Traverse out right onto the steep face past a battered peg to a shallow recess and corner. Continue right onto good holds around the corner. Climb up diagonally right and finish up the large flakes.

15Trad
4 The Sting

Start on the small ledge on The Entertainer and climb up to the jams under the left-hand side of the roof. Continue up the face above to The Entertainer and exit straight up.

FA: Clive Curson and A. Smith, 1986

21Unknown
5 * The Entertainer

Contrived, but technical climbing. Starts from the large block at the base of Pin Up. Step off the block and traverse left immediately using a thin hand rail for about two metres. Climb the wall and move back right to a shallow recess and then onto a block below a small roof. Pull through the roof and continue up a thin layback flake to the Pin Up flake. Traverse left (reversing the Adam’s Apoplexy Variation traverse) to the shallow recess which is climbed to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

22Unknown
6 * The Entertainer Direct

This variation is completely independent from Pin Up. From the thin flake above the roof, move left and up the thin crack to the traverse. Move left and exit on thin holds.

FA: Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1984

23Unknown
7 * Pin Up

Originally opened as an aid route, it was freed to produce one of Monteseel’s most popular routes. Starts from a large block on a wide ledge above the path.

Climb up to a rail below a small roof. Stretch through the roof on a hand jam to an inset jug on the left. Continue up the steep face above. Move left to a large flake and exit easily to the top.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Jim Thomson, 1960

FFA: Dave Cheesemond or Mike Roberts, 1975

20Trad
8 ** Pin Up Direct

A superb finish to a great route. From the peg or the flake move up to a block and then straight up the face via a couple of crimper edges.

FA: Adrian Jardine, 1981

21Unknown
9 ** Zone Five

A direct line between Pin Up and Hallucination. Start in the middle of the Hallucination flake. Climb up to a smooth face protected by a peg and continue to a small ledge. Move up to a pocket (good No. 3 Friend placement and rusty peg on the left) and then climb straight through to the top on teeny weeny holds (crux).

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1985

27Unknown
10 ** Hallucination

Originally an old aid route opened by Colin Shuttleworth called Wobble. Start at the flake to the right of Pin Up.

Climb the flake to the rail. Continue up the face via a hidden hold on the right to another rail with a peg. Move one metre right and then up past another peg to the top rail. Traverse right onto the good foothold (ie onto Granny’s) and then pull up until able to stand on the rail. Do one move left and finish.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1978

22Unknown
11 ** The Empty Void

A tougher finish to the already pumping Hallucination. From the good rail near the top, head slightly left and up to a small overlap. Finish straight up.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Andy de Klerk, 1983

24Unknown
12 ** Hallucination Direct

A harder finish to Hallucination that does not touch on Granny’s. From the top rail of Hallucination, move slightly right and then straight up to the finishing holds via a sloper.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Andy de Klerk, 1983

23Unknown
13 ** The Tears of a Clown

Boulder up the wall left of Granny’s to a pocket in the rail. Follow the thin verttical seam straight up the wall to where it joins Hallucination. Finish as for Hallucination Direct.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1986

24Unknown
14 *** Granny's Souped Up Wheelchair

One of the most climbed routes in KwaZulu- Natal, and the "hard climbing" entrance exam for any aspirant rock star. It has always had a reputation as a tough 23.

Start three metres right of Hallucination and climb directly to the top. Avoid moving on to the ledge halfway up. The crux is protected by two adjacently placed pegs.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

24Unknown
15 Obscene Stone Call

Start at the left hand edge of the Fall Out bouldering wall. Climb directly up to a small roof, do one move right and climb up to the ledge. Continue up the face just right of the No Hands crack to the rail. Traverse two metres right and move up to via a jug to the next rail. Climb diagonally left to exit.

FA: Tim Goodwin, 1986

24Unknown
16 * Fall Out

This route is a combination of two climbs, the original Fall Out up to the big ledge, and an aid route opened by Des Watkins, called Lollipop, from the ledge to the top. The aid route was freed by Brian Gross on top rope in 1976. The result is a good introduction to steep and technical climbing.

Start in the middle of the face. Climb up to the rail and using a hand jam, stretch up to a thinner rail. Continue up a crack, past a ring peg to a narrow, sloping ledge. Move right and climb a crack to the large ledge. Climb the overhanging crack above to a rail. Move left and finish up a recess.

FA: Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden, 1977

20Unknown
17 * Chariots of Fire

Climb the wall just right of Fall Out to the ledge. Follow the discontinuous crack right of Fall Out to a rail. Move right and up a diagonal crack to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1985

25Unknown
18 Hokkaido

Start to the right of Fall Out and climb up past the boot-shaped rock in the face. Finish on the ledge.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

20Unknown
19 Powertools

Start as for Hokkaido to the ledge and continue up the short, steep wall above, passing two bolts.

FA: Roger Nattrass and Grant Murray, 1989

22Unknown
20 No Hands

The top section provides interesting and enjoyable climbing. Start at a small tree and a wide crack in the corner to the right of the Fall Out wall.

(1) Climb up the corner to the roof. Move left onto the face and climb the slanting crack to the ledge.

(2) Walk to the left-hand end of the ledge. Layback into the wide crack and continue until about half way up. Move around left onto the face and continue to the top.

Variation: Make a direct start just to the right of Granny’s and climb straight up to the top in a single pitch.

FA: Des Watkins, 1955

15Unknown
21 Kids Trick 15Unknown
22 No Thoroughfare

Start up the first part of No Hands. Climb the crack to the level of the roof and then traverse out to the right on a greasy rail under the roof using spaced footholds. After rounding the corner, continue up to the top on easy rock.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Jim Thomson, 1962

12Trad
23 *** Fiddler in the Roof

Start up the centre of the face just to the right of the No Thoroughfare corner/crack. Move up and left to reach a left-slanting, off balance crack. Alternatively, and more popularly, pull up on a jug to the right of the No Thoroughfare crack and move up and right to gain the left-slanting crack. Climb this until it is possible to move up left to a position under the roof which is split by a crack. Jam in the roof and reach around to good holds on the face above. Pull through and then finish up easy rock to the right.

A fine introduction to the subtleties of a roof crack. The moves up to the overhang were done together with Dave Cheesmond and Roy Gooden in 1978, and provide a sustained first section in keeping with the rest of the climb. A lot of 'pretenders' climb the No Thoroughfare corner to reach the roof - this is definitely 'not cricket'

FA: Mike Roberts and Rich Smithers, 1977

19Trad
24 Gerry's G

Start below the small roof at the left-hand end of the Pot Boiler face. This is the easy-angled face to the right of the path leading down to the bottom of the crag between the Eastern Buttress and the Lower Middle Buttress. Climb up to the roof and pull through using a flat hold on the edge above. Finish straight up the face above. This popular problem is easy to top rope but daunting to lead. It involves only about two grade 17 moves through the roof - the rest is barely grade 8 !

About 3 m to the right of Gerry's G is a very similar line that requires a completely different sequence of (about two) moves through the roof - also about grade 17.

FA: Gerald Walsh, 1955

17Trad
25 Hot Plate

Start next to a bush at the base of the wide crack in the easy angled face on the right of the path leading to the bottom of the crag. Climb the face next to the crack for about two metres and then traverse left to the corner. Climb up the blocky face to the top.

FA: Charles Axelson, Sherman Ripley and Ted Gathercole, 1941

9Trad
26 Pot Boiler

A great meeting place for ex-climbers introducing their children to climbing. Start as for Hot Plate and climb the wide crack to the top, moving left to avoid a bulge.

FA: Charles Axelson, Sherman Ripley and Ted Gathercole, 1941

8Trad
27 * Girdle Traverse

First ascent: Pitches 1-7 Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden, 1977

Pitches 8-9 Dave and Carless Freer, and Roy Gooden, 1978

Monteseel’s longest route, including nine pitches and approximately 200 metres of climbing, it traverses most of the Central Buttress. The climb was possibly opened in 1972 by Dave Cheesmond and Paul Bridgman using aid to avoid existing climbs. The current route follows sections of existing routes to eliminate any aid. Starts at the base of the Pot Boiler crack.

(1) Traverse across the Hot Plate face to the end of the No Thoroughfare traverse. Reverse this to reach the Fall Out ledge (12).

(2) Traverse past the tree and continue across the Hallucination face to the large flake on Pin Up. Reverse the Adam’s Apoplexy Variation traverse to stance on Adam’s Apoplexy (19).

(3) Move around the corner and drop down to reverse the Nog High traverse to the tree (13).

(4) Continue across the No Feet face and move around the corner onto the Think face. Traverse at the level of the fixed peg on Think to make a difficult handswing from a small layback hold to reach Adam. Move across the Cain face to stance above the start of Republican (19).

(5) Traverse as for the 1st pitch of Republican to stance on the big ledge (13).

(6) Climb as for Republic Left Break from the big ledge to the corner. Do not move up to the flake, but continue left on small holds to reach the end of the Pendulum traverse. Reverse this to reach the Pendulum stance (18).

(7) Traverse left and drop down to reach the Zig Zag ledge. Move to the end of the ledge and stance at the tree (13)

(8) Traverse across the face that forms the second pitch of Zig Zag to a stance above a roof. Reach down and left to a layback hold which enables one to reach a handrail under the roof. Continue left past Top Heavy to stance near Pilgrim’s Progress (15).

(9) Climb the open book just to the right of Pilgrim’s Progress.

19Trad

1.2. Western Buttress 97 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 30.673751, -29.735371

1.2.1. Near Western Buttress 63 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

Approached by abseil or by scrambling down the obvious easy flakes below the drainage gully at the low point looking across at the western cliffs from the path above the lower middle buttress. There is a (sometimes vague) path that starts approximately below the MCSA hut which leads westward and down to the top of the scramble. There is a large block to the west of the scramble marking the top of the west facing Angel Dust wall.

Note that the large pillar that formed the Sewer chimney referred to in previous guides collapsed after an earth tremor in January 1994. As a result, the climbs Rigor Mortis, Sewer and Spiral no longer exist.

1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall 40 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Coprophilia

A filthy route as the name suggests. Climb the obvious crack 50 m left of Jean, breaking out right onto the face near the top.

FA: Dave Freer, Barbara Gordon-Bagnall and Jim Frew, 1979

15Trad
2 Exit from Reality

First ascent: 1st pitch: Carless Freer and Bern Henriksen

2nd pitch: Mike Roberts, Carless and Dave Freer, 1979

Start seven metres left of Warchild.

(1) Climb through a small overhang up diagonally right to a large ledge and cave.

(2) Move up to the left-hand side of the cave and rail right to break through another overhang and exit.

19Trad
3 *** Pieces of the Sky

Climbs the wall to the left of Warchild, starting under the roof by a tree. Pull through past a peg and up to a rail. Continue straight to the top.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Adrian Jardin, 1984

23Unknown
4 ** Wilderness of Pain

Climbs the wall between Warchild and Pieces of the Sky, starting at the break between the two. Pull through and climb up to the next roof. Go straight through past two pegs on the left. Climb diagonally up the wall to a short vertical crack. Climb straight up to exit past a peg. The crux is the last move.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1985

27Trad
5 *** Barrier of Spears

Starts as for Wilderness of Pain. Climb up to the roof and pull through to continue straight up the wall on micro edges, passing two bolts.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1989

26Mixed 2
6 * Warchild

Start five metres left of Jean. This route sports a rather large lead-out, and has sent almost every local climber on such a huge whipper that they should probably have packed sandwiches for the trip! Climb a shallow recess to a rail on the left of a bush (pegs). Continue straight to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

23Trad
7 ** Jean

A fine route with fairly sustained climbing. The route was first top-roped by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth. Start at the bottom of the left-hand corner (facing the rock) adjacent to the scramble down. Climb a short steep ramp to a rail. Move around the corner to the right and pull up to a jug. Traverse back left for approximately three metres using the rail as a foot rail. Pull up and climb slightly right to a peg. Move left and pull up to a small ledge, and continue past another peg and slightly right to gain good but rounded holds. Continue up a shallow recess to the top.

FA: Colin, Brian and Dave Shuttleworth, 1970

16Trad
8 * Dreamscape

Start on the smooth face just to the right of the ramp that forms the start of Jean.Boulder up to the rail and stretch through to the jug. Instead of traversing left, climb straight up the shallow recess on the corner. Carry straight up to the top after the recess peters out.

FA: Gerald Camp, 1989

17Trad
9 Dingleberry

Starts just before the bottom of the scramble, about five metres above and to the right of Jean. Climb up the broken rock to the small roof on the right of the corner. Traverse left just before the roof for two metres to a peg. Traverse back right and climb through the bulge to the top.

FA: Chris and Mark Leslie-Smith, 1983

18Trad
10 * Problem Child

A short route with some technical face climbing. Start at a tree on the right of the scramble down. The upper section route is reasonably protected with small wires and Friends, contrary to comments in earlier guides. Climb a short steep face to a small ledge. Climb the face past a peg directly above and exit slightly to the right.

FA: Colin and Brian Shuttleworth, 1970

17Trad
11 * Reformatory

Enjoyable, well protected climbing with a variety of moves, especially if it is linked with Problem Child. Starts at the tree below the first recess to the right of the scramble down. Climb the recess up to a roof. Side-step and pull around the roof to the left into a corner below another, larger roof. Traverse left across the face below the roof for about two metres and then climb a shallow crack until it is possible to traverse right for about three metres to a sloping ledge above the roof. Exit up the crack (can be greasy) and face to the right. There is an alternate line that breaks through the roof to the base of the exit crack (16).

FA: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

15Trad
12 ** Reformatory/Problem Child

A popular option is to combine the lower sections of Reformatory with the upper section of Problem Child in a single pitch. This includes the best of both climbs and leaves out the arbitrary start to Problem Child, and the greasy exit crack of Reformatory. Highly recommended.

Start, and continue on Reformatory until the end of the shallow crack. Instead of traversing right above the roof, traverse easily left onto the ledge below the fixed peg and continue as for Problem Child.

17Trad
13 Delinquent

A tricky route similar to Reformatory in character. Starts in the recess to the right of Reformatory. Climb the steep recess and face to under a small roof. Side-step this to the left to gain the face above. Climb directly up past a flake on small holds until ones feet are level with the flake. Traverse right for two metres and then finish directly up the face to a tree. Poor protection after the roof.

FA: Rich Smithers and Mike Roberts, 1978

17Trad
14 Kids in America

Takes the face between Delinquent and Return to Fantasy. Climb the face to a ledge at the base of a shallow recess. Move up into the recess and then diagonally right and up to another ledge. Follow the easy face and recess to the top.

FA: Ian Manson and Chris Jackson, 1981

17Trad
15 * Return to Fantasy

This is one of the classics in its grade at Monteseel, offering varied and interesting climbing with a fine exit crack. It was considered the standard 17 against which other routes were graded. Start at the overhanging recess to the right of Kids in America.

A gorilla take-off is followed by an easy shallow recess to a ledge. Climb diagonally up to the right of the roof and then step left onto the face and follow a shallow crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious recess and crack to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Bern Henriksen, 1978

17Trad
16 Lord of the Rings

This route supersedes Mithril, opened in 1980 by Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw. Start two metres right of Return to Fantasy.

Climb up the face to a bulge. Climb through this and onto the slab below the roof. Move right to the obvious break in the roof. Climb straight up to a ledge and finish up the crack.

FA: Andy de Klerk, Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw, 1983

22Trad
17 * Monkey Heaven

A route just left of the prow between Lord of the Rings and Out of the Blue. Wander up the wall to a large step in the roof where there is a peg. Pull through the roof (bolt) then past two more pegs, following a flake line to a fourth peg. Climb up to a rail and finish straight up the grey face.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

24Mixed 1
18 ** Dusklands

An improbable looking line up the prow to the left of Out of the Blue. Start as for Monkey Heaven but move right around the roof and then straight up the blank headwall, passing a second bolt. Your belayer must give you a few feet of slack should you fall off the crux to ensure that you fall below the roof and not swing into it.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1990

27Mixed 2
19 ** Out of the Blue

Start at a thin crack to the right of Monkey Heaven/Dusklands. Climb the wall to the roof (peg). Move through the roof, past a peg to a jug and then left to a layback. Continue up this to the top. There is a long fall off the headwall which is "well protected" by two adjacently placed No. 1 Rocks. Some of the older climbers used to refer to it as "Out of the Blue....and into the Loony Bin" as it can be somewhat terrifying.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Craig Attwell, 1984

26Trad
20 * Walk of Life

Climbs the wall to the right of Out of the Blue. Pumping and tricky. Start just to the right of Out of the Blue and climb up the wall to below the roof. Pull through the roof at a bolt. Climb the wall past a peg and a bolt to the top.

FA: Andy de Klerk, Chris Jackson and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

24Trad
21 ** Suicide Wall

A bold line through an overhang to gain a fine face. Starts seven metres right of where Sewer used to be. Climb up to the overhang on rounded holds. Break through the overhang, past two pegs, and then traverse one metre right. Climb directly up for six metres, traverse left and climb a smooth face to a ledge. Continue up to a second ledge and then up to a crack on the right which is followed to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Brian Shuttleworth, 1978

20Trad
22 * Christmas Wall

The line is recognisable by the large glue-in ring bolts to the right of Suicide Wall. Climb straight up the face. Some additional gear is required.

FA: R. Kohle, 1992

22Mixed 5
23 * Edge of Eternity

Starts from a ledge just around the corner from Christmas Wall. Technical. Traverse left for three metres, move up and continue left to the edge. Pull through a small roof to reach an awkward cubbyhole. Move right and up to a sloping ledge. Continue up a smooth face to the top, keeping just to the right of the edge. Poorly protected on the last section.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

21Trad
24 * Couchant

A line that has acquired a bit of a reputation for its grade over the years, but is well worth doing, with exciting moves on a steep wall. Start on the blocky ledge common to the starts of Edge of Eternity and Angel Dust. Climb slightly left to a protruding block on the face. Climb onto the block and up the face to a recess. Climb this and move left to exit.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1970

17Trad
25 ** Stone Judgement

Start just to the left of Angel Dust, below the first Peg. Climb the face above, past another peg, to a rail. Pull onto the small ledge on Angel Dust. Climb directly up (i.e. left of the Angel Dust headwall) passing the small triangular niche on the left. Finish straight up the face above. There is a gripping lead-out at the top.

FA: Gerald Camp, 1989

24Trad
26 ** Angel Dust

This is one of the climbs that marked the start of a new era of hard climbing at Monteseel. Starts on the ledge two metres to the right of Couchant, below a thin crack in the middle of the face. Climb the thin crack to a rail. Traverse left for one metre to a resting place. Move up slightly right and then directly up the wall to finish up the break at the lip. Gear on the headwall is sparse but good.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

24Trad
27 *** Angel Dust Direct

This is an eliminate between Direct Insult and Angel Dust. The moves are harder than Angel Dust, but are better protected. Start as for Angel Dust. Climb the crack and continue straight up past the big rail, and then directly up the wall above keeping to the right of Angel Dust. The finish is marked by a short crack.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1988

25Trad
28 Right Angle Overhang 15Trad
29 Death Wish

Committing climbing in the middle sections. Start up a very shallow corner to the right of the start of Angel Dust. Climb a section of poor rock up to a large rail and traverse right onto the corner. Move left and then up three metres to a second rail. Traverse left to a narrow ledge and then climb up for three metres and move right to a ledge, traversing to the right of the ledge before getting onto it. Move back left, pull onto the wall and traverse right for two metres to exit.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

20Trad
30 ** Direct Insult

A direct line through Death Wish. Start as for Death Wish to the rail and continue straight up the open-book until level with the ledge. Move diagonally left and then back right to finish directly above.

FA: Steve Bradshaw and Andrew Ashford-Jack, 1984

21Trad
31 Space Odyssey

An obvious line giving uninspiring climbing. Start immediately to the right of the crack in the corner (Right Angle Overhang - described in Odds and Sods) to the right of Death Wish. Climb up to under a slanting roof. Pull through this into the obvious recess that is followed to the top.

FA: Carless and Dave Freer, and Jaap Earle, 1978

15Trad
32 Two Thousand and One

A line that tends to sand up but is worth a clean as it gives fine climbing. Start in the openbook to the right of Space Odyssey. Climb the openbook to an overhang. Pull through this and finish up the left hand wall above.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth, Dave Cheesemond, Mervyn Gans and Steve Cooke, 1978

16Trad
33 UFO 12Unknown
34 * Daylight Robertsry

Short, but superb corner to the right of the vegetated corner that forms UFO (described in Odds and Sods). The climb starts from a ledge with a tree. It is easier to abseil to the start.

FA: Mike Roberts and Adrian Jardin, 1982

22Trad
35 * Jackass

Scramble up onto - or abseil down onto - the top of a small, flat-topped column of rock located 5 m to the left of Boris the Beanstalk and next to a large euphorbia tree. The top of this column is currently covered by a wiry creeper.

(1) From the top of the column, step left onto the face to gain the start of a recess. Climb up towards the left-hand end of a small roof. Climb the recess on the left of the roof to gain a stance on the right hand end of the Daylights Robertsry ledge. The stance on the ledge is at the base of a short open-book.

(2) Climb the open book and then take the line of least resistance to the top.

The first pitch is excellent but the second pitch needs a lot of cleaning. Until this is done, it might be better to walk to the left along the ledge and top out up Daylights Robertsry.

FA: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer, 2000

15Trad
36 * Boris the Beanstalk

One of the older classics. It offers varied, interesting climbing and deserves more ascents. Start by scrambling onto a large ledge 5 m to the left of Gates of Delirium.

(1) Climb up from the left of the ledge, past a small ledge, and up a recess to a nose. Move up and left to under the roof, and continue left to a crack in the roof which is climbed to a ledge.

(2) Climb the recess on the left of the ledge to under a small roof. Traverse left onto the nose and continue up to a ledge. Climb a short recess and continue to the top.

FA: Des Watkins, 1953

15Trad
37 * Gates of Delirium

Originally opened by Dave Shuttleworth and John Collings as Deliberate (15, A1), the route was "re-opened" as Time Warp by Mike Roberts and Roy Gooden before being freed by Mike Roberts. There is an alternate, harder first pitch opened by Mike Roberts and Mick Hafner in 1979. Start at the base of a steep wall with overhangs on the right.

(1) Climb up a broken face for four metres and then traverse left on dubious rock to a small nose. From here either (a) Climb diagonally right to under a small roof, moving left onto a stance with a peg (18), or (b) climb directly up a steep shallow recess to the stance (21).

(2) From the stance, climb diagonally right into the big corner and move up to under the roof. Traverse out left and move around the roof to gain a small recess. Climb up the recess past a peg. Move left and follow another break to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1978

21Trad
38 Rampant

An aid route that takes an unobvious line through the large, blocky overhangs. It is doubtful whether this route has had a second ascent. Start five metres to the right of Gates of Delirium. Break through several routes, taking a fairly direct line to the top.

FA: Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle, 1973

A3Aid
39 Penny's Perch

Some interesting climbing which unfortunately only offers good climbing over short sections. Erroneously graded as 17 in previous guides. Start on the easy face left of the Fear of Flight ledge. Climb the face to reach a corner under a small roof. Pull through and traverse left to a rest. A tricky move left gains a small recess which is followed to the top.

FA: John Woods, 1958

14Trad
40 * Earth, Wind and Fire

Short and strenuous. Start on the left-hand edge of the Fear of Flight ledge. Traverse left onto the face and move up to reach an off-balance ledge. Continue up a short, shallow recess to a second ledge. Pull onto the roofs and continue through them for five metres. Move out right onto the face which is followed to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

21Trad
1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress 23 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

This is a broken and vegetated section of the cliffs with climbs tending to start from ledges that are best reached by abseil. The Shadows Wall is the clean overhanging wall above a big ledge. Cryptotermes takes a line up the prominent buttress seen as the skyline of the western cliff from the main climbing area and MCSA hut. Local knowledge, and reference to the topos in "A Climber’s Guide to Natal Rock" by Roger Nattrass is recommended.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Umbrellas in the Drizzle

Start from the blocks on the left of the Fear of Flight ledge, below an imposing, clean wall. Climb the wall past a peg to the ledge. Break through the roofs and continue up to another peg on the left of the Shadows’ headwall. Move left on undercut holds to finish.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Ed February, 1987

24Trad
2 * Umbrellas in the Drizzle Direct

Instead of moving left to finish, climb straight up to the top from the second peg. Run out.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Ed February, 1987

26Trad
3 ** Shadows in the Rain

An imposing face offering excellent moves on superb rock. Unfortunately the face gets very dusty and covered with sand, hence the four star rating. You have to brush the entire headwall beforehand in order to enjoy the line, but rest assured that half an hour of brushing is well worth the effort. Start just left of the crack at the base of Fear of Flight. Pass a bolt and climb up the thin seam to the roof. Move left along the rail to below a peg. Pull through the roof and up to the rail. Move slightly right and up the headwall.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 1984

26Trad
4 * Fear of Flight

Start on the big ledge below the clean overhanging wall. Climb the crack to the roof and continue straight up to a small ledge. Climb directly to the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Brian Shuttleworth, 1979

23Trad
5 * Petrified Ice

Climbs the narrow face to the right of Fear of Flight. Good climbing past two bolts, but a little contrived as you shouldn’t step off the wall at the second bolt.

FA: Roger Nattrass,, 1990

24Trad
6 * Daydreamer

Start on the ledge around the corner to the right of Fear of Flight. Traverse left across the wall to the foot of the thin crack. Climb up the crack to where it peters out. From here, move diagonally right across the face to finish up the vague recess. This has superseded the original line which traversed lower down the face, but is very contrived. It is also possible to finish directly above the crack.

FA: Mike Roberts, 1978

20Trad
7 ** Way Wad Wodger Weturns

A more direct version of Daydreamer offering aesthetic moves on clean rock. Climb directly up the middle of the face. Supplement the bolts with a medium (No. 2-3) Friend and two opposed No. 1 Rocks near the top.

FA: gerald Camp, 1989

22Trad
8 If Rape is Inevitable

Climbs the steep wall to the right of Daydreamer. One can abseil onto the ledge from a tree. Climb up from the ledge on a ramp leading to the corner for nine metres, then traverse right to the base of an overhanging crack. Climb up to a ledge with a small tree on it. Move right and do a hard move to gain the obvious block. Climb up this and continue to the top. Loose!!

FA: Charl Brummer and Bern Henriksen, 1981

18Trad
9 Sabbatarian

The route starts around the corner to the right of Daydreamer. The first and last six metres provide the interesting climbing. Climb up a rounded face moving left around a small roof into a small recess. Climb up past two small bulges to a ledge. Continue up a recess to below a roof, traverse right and up a chimney to the top.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth, Carless Freer and Mike Roberts, 1978

16Trad
10 Desperation Dash

Start immediately right of Sabbatarian in the dank recess below the obvious water chute. Climb the recess for fifteen metres, moving right at one point. Traverse two metres right and finish up an easy recess.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth and Henry Bro, 1976

17Trad
11 * What A Way To Go

Start in the same corner as Come Short.

(1) Climb the corner to a large rail. Traverse left for two metres, pull up and move left to the base of a huge recess. Climb this moving right at one point to avoid a roof. Traverse right at the top of the recess to a good stance.

(2) From the stance, move up for two metres to an overhanging recess with a peg. Climb up around the bulge to a ledge. Finish slightly left.

FA: Adrian Hill and Roy Gooden, 1981

19Trad
12 K1 -Unknown
13 K2 -Unknown
14 DEF -Unknown
15 Come Short

The second pitch is somewhat different, being easier for people of restricted growth, hence the name. Start at the base of a huge corner.

(1) Climb a short recess for three metres and traverse left onto a ledge, continuing up to a second ledge. Climb a shallow recess and move diagonally left onto blocks. Continue left and then up to a large stance.

(2) Traverse left along the obvious grassy rail and exit easily to the top.

FA: Carless Freer and Harry Bourquin, 1972

15Trad
16 ** Satin Motion

The hardest route at Monteseel to date. Fully bolted. Abseil onto the big ledge halfway up Sunshine Chute where there is a two-bolt belay on the ledge. Long cranks on tiny, yet positive edges are the solution to this continuous problem. Have a good pair of edging shoes.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991

28Sport
17 Sunshine Chute

A surprisingly clean and interesting line up the vegetated recess to the right of Come Short. Climb the right hand side of the recess to the top

FA: Des Watkins, 1953

15Trad
18 * Schadenfreude Direct

A short route that is well worth doing. Completely separate from Schadenfreude. Starts from the left hand side of a large ledge that is easily reached from the bottom. Climb onto the face and move immediately left to a small recess. Ascend this to a ledge on the left and continue up a steep wall to a rail. Traverse left to the corner and climb up, moving right to exit behind a large block.

FA: Alan Whittaker and Paul Bridgman

15Trad
19 Sigmund Freude

The route takes a bold break through the big roof to the right of Schadenfreude Direct and has an airy crux. Start from the same ledge as Schadenfreude Direct. Climb the large crack to a ledge under the roof. Pull up into the roof and traverse left to pull onto the nose of the roof. Climb the off-width crack to a ledge and continue easily to the top.

FA: Mervyn Gans, Rich Smithers and Carless Freer, 1977

18Trad
20 Schadenfreude

A short route following a large crack in the corner to the right of Sigmund Freude. The climb is spoiled by a heavily vegetated top section. Pull up on blocks to gain the recess and follow this to the top.

FA: Des Watkins, 1953

13Trad
21 ** Violent Haze

Starts on the huge ledge about one third of the way up the arete. Climb the overhanging arete on excellent natural gear.

FA: Kevin Tonkin, 1992

22Trad
22 Arachnophobia

Starts beneath the ledge on Violent Haze. Climb the arete then move to the left of the Violent Haze ledge. Climb the blocky face to the left of the arete.

FA: Kevin Tonkin, 1992

17Trad
23 Cryptotermes

A worthwhile route, but unfortunately spoiled by some poor rock, particularly the first pitch. Start around the corner to the right of Schadenfreude.

(1) Climb up through a roof onto a steep face. Traverse to the right, around a block, onto a good stance. A more strenuous alternative is to start just right of the tree halfway up the face and climb the short recess to the stance.

(2) Climb a steep face to reach a recess. Climb this and move right to exit.

FA: Des Watkins, 1953

15Trad

1.2.2. Far Western Buttress 34 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.673751, -29.735371

1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas 18 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jugular Vein 15Unknown
2 * Jack the Ripper 12Unknown
3 *** The Road to Recognition 24Unknown
4 ** A Perverted Fear of Violence 25Unknown
5 ** Motorpsycho Nightmare 24Unknown
6 Bee Sting 15Unknown
7 First Annual 12Unknown
8 * Tangerine Dream 20Unknown
9 Spider 18Unknown
10 Paralysis 14Unknown
11 Spooky the Tuff Li'l Ghost 15Unknown
12 Pee Wee 17Unknown
13 Fig Tree 9Unknown
14 Double Exposure 14Unknown
15 Over Exposed 14Unknown
16 Father's Day 10Unknown
17 Con Mucho Gusto 18Unknown
18 Wanderlust 12Unknown
1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area 16 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 30.673941, -29.735411

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Highway for Fools 14Unknown
2 * Morsel 15Unknown
3 Eff Six 18Unknown
4 Abstentia 15Unknown
5 No Name 19Unknown
6 ** Utopia 14Unknown
7 Underworld 12Unknown
8 Rubber Arm 22Unknown
9 Cardiac Arrest 15Unknown
10 ** Hades 17Unknown
11 * The Kakamas Cling 24Unknown
12 Pipsqueak 13Unknown
13 Land of Nod 18Unknown
14 ** Dance the Instinct 21Unknown
15 Clematis 16Unknown
16 * Silver and Gold 25Unknown

1.3. Lower Middle Buttress 19 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

The Lower Middle Buttress is located directly opposite (downhill from) the usual car park. Despite its name, there is no Upper Middle Buttress!

Approach:

The base of the crag may be reached in one of three ways. The first option is to take the path from the car park and continue down this path between the Eastern and Lower Middle Buttresses. The path forks near a very large block. The lesser path leads off to the right along a large ledge that runs along the base of the Eastern Buttress. The major path carries on down into the valley below. Follow this path until it is possible to scramble across to the left (facing downhill) to reach the bottom of the Lower Middle Buttress. An alternative approach is to scramble/climb down the bushy corner between A Sight for Sore Eyes and Penny in the Slot. An abseil provides the final alternative. The climbs on this Buttress are grouped into four areas.

1.3.1. Time is Tight Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This area comprises the eastern parts of the Lower Middle Buttress and contains the majority of better routes which are described (as usual) from left to right when facing the crag from below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Other Alternative

Start on the boulder at the bottom of the short, overhanging east-facing wall. Climb the left-hand edge of the wall, keeping just right of the arete.

FA: Kevin Smith, 1988

22Trad
2 * Blood on the Tracks

Start from the same boulder, but just right of The Other Alternative. Climb straight up to an obvious jug and then move right towards the niche in the corner. Move back diagonally left to another jug and finish straight up. The line is difficult to protect.

FA: Andy de Klerk, Steve Bradshaw, Craig Attwell and Chris Jackson, 1983

21Trad
3 * Freewheelin'

Start at the steep corner to the right of Blood on the Tracks. Climb the recessed corner to a rail with a peg. Pull through and continue up the corner to the niche. Move out right around the niche and then finish up the face.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1978

21Trad
4 *** Time is Tight

This is one of the best routes at Monteseel. It starts one metre right of the Freewheelin’ corner. A boulder problem start leads straight up to the rail. Move slightly right then and up to two pegs. Climb up and slightly left from the pegs to reach a small rail. Continue directly up the face above.

FA: Mike Roberts and Ian Wallace, 1979

23Trad
5 Countdown to Ecstasy

This is an eliminate squeezed between Time is Tight and Child in Time. The top section is contrived. Do a boulder problem start up the reddish streak left of Child in Time and climb up to the roof. Pull directly through the middle of the roof and continue up the face above. Finish just left of Child in Time.

FA: Andy Russell-Boulton, Brett Clarke and Ron Uken, 1989

21Trad
6 ** Child in Time

Start one metre left of the blocks on the right hand side of the face. Boulder up to a thin ledge without using the blocks. Move slightly left and up to the small roof. Turn this on the right and climb directly up the face above to finish up the obvious weakness at the top.

FA: Mike Roberts and Alan Manson, 1979

21Trad
7 * Sight for Sore Eyes

Start under the edge of the roof to the right of Child in Time. Climb straight up, keeping left of the tree branch, which can be used for protection. Finish up the obvious break.

FA: Craig Robertson and Daniel Ryding, 1991

21Trad

1.3.2. Short and Sweet Area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This area is to be found towards the centre of the Lower Middle Buttress.

Approach:

The easiest approach is probably to abseil down Short and Sweet onto the middle of the big ledge, or to scramble down the bushy corner next to Penny in the Slot.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Penny in the Slot

Start up the corner left of Short and Sweet and then follow the obvious line to the top.

FA: Ginger Cairns, Penny Dodds and Rae Adams, 1953

11Trad
2 * Short and Sweet

This is a pleasant and sustained climb at its grade. Start at the centre of a big ledge that can be reached by abseil from above, a scramble from below, or by an easy climb down the bushy corner between Sight for Sore Eyes and Penny in the Slot.

Climb up past a small bulge to an overlap which is passed its right (there is a convenient finger-jam for the vertically challenged). Continue to a thick, loose flake that feels dodgy but has held a few local heavyweights. Move right to finish up a shallow scoop between the blocks at the top.

FA: Dave Shuttleworth

16Trad
3 The Divine Existentialist Mission

Start between Short and Sweet and Blood Sweat and Tears. Climb straight up the face to the top.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1988

20Trad
4 Blood, Sweat and Tears

Start on the right hand edge of the Short and Sweet ledge. From the edge of the ledge, move right into the big curving crack. Climb the crack and then hand-swing out right to the corner past a peg. From the corner move up and then left to finish up a short recess. Alternatively continue straight up from the top of the crack for a more worthwhile finish.

FA: Brian Shuttleworth and Carless Freer, 1978

20Trad

1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Description:

This is the western "tail" of the Lower Middle Buttress. It is reached by scrambling down beyond the left-hand side of the buttress (facing downhill). This scramble is just left of a prominent grassy shoulder at the outermost point of the path down to the bottom of the central buttress. The following routes start from a big ledge to the right of the scramble (facing downhill).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hot Dog 8Unknown
2 Roy's D

Start at left hand side of a tree, around the corner from, and to the right of Blood, Sweat and Tears. Climb the face and move slightly left to the bottom of a sloping ramp. Climb the ramp and short crack to reach a ledge. From the back of the ledge, ascend the steep face to the top.

FA: Roy Denny, 1956

12Trad
3 Pink Gin

Start about four metres to the left of Gin and Vermouth. Climb the face, stepping right to avoid a bulge. Move up to the ledge and exit.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Martin Blades, 1955

12Trad
4 Handover 10Unknown
5 Gin and Vermouth

Start next to a tree on a big ledge a few metres left of the scramble. Climb up a short, steep face past a battered peg and move left and up to a ledge. Climb diagonally right to another big ledge and finish up a blocky recess on the right.

FA: Sherman Ripley and Martin Blades, 1955

13Trad
6 Jim's Jaunt 8Unknown

1.3.4. Capital F Area 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

These two climbs are on a small isolated crag between the Lower Middle Buttress and the Western Buttress. Descend the grass spur that runs down towards the valley between the Western Buttress and the Lower Middle Buttress. The climbs are located in the clean, orange-coloured corner, which is lower than the level of the Gin and Vermouth ledge.

Approach:

To avoid bundu-bashing, it is best to abseil to the start of the climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rockwork Orange

This is a short, but pleasant climb. Start two metres left of the corner (Capital F) and climb the clean face past a small flake to finish up the steep face above.

FA: Adrian Hill, 1980

14Trad
2 Capital F

Climb the obvious corner to the top

FA: Dave Castro, 1975

12Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
A1 Opposition Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
A3 Rampant Aid 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
8 Cold Feet Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
Pot Boiler Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Hot Dog Unknown 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
Jim's Jaunt Unknown 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
9 Owl Unknown 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
Hot Plate Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Fig Tree Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
10 Hot Seat Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
Warm Knees Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
** Cain Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
Father's Day Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Handover Unknown 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
11 Bali Hai Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
A Twist of Sand Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
Chocolate Tokolosh Unknown 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
* New Hoek Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Zig-Zag Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Eve Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
Penny in the Slot Trad 1.3.2. Short and Sweet Area
12 Twins Unknown 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Mother's Day Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
** Hot Head Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
* Republican Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Nog High Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Adam's Apoplexy Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
No Thoroughfare Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
None Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
UFO Unknown 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
First Annual Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
* Jack the Ripper Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Wanderlust Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Underworld Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
Pink Gin Trad 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
Roy's D Trad 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
Capital F Trad 1.3.4. Capital F Area
13 * Deliverance Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
New Rope Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
Tumbleweed Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
Virgin Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Afternoon Tea Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
* No Feet Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
Schadenfreude Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Pipsqueak Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
Gin and Vermouth Trad 1.3.3. Gin and Vermouth area
14 Colonel Saunders Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Enema Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Grasp Unknown 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Hot Line Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Strawberry Jamb Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Elephant's Asshole Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
* Eviction Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
Long Drop Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
** Tiny's Toddle Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
** Black Diedre Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Impulse Unknown 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Crumble Unknown 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
Horizontal Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Pendulum Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Pilgrim's Progress Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Adam Trad 18m 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
Penny's Perch Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Double Exposure Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Over Exposed Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Paralysis Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Highway for Fools Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
** Utopia Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
Rockwork Orange Trad 1.3.4. Capital F Area
15 Et Tu Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Flabbergasp Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Necrosis Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Fulcrum Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
Just a Touch Unknown 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
Burnt Hands Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Morning Tea Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
Galadriel Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
No Lunch Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
Fit to Burst Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
Life's a Bitch Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Republic Direct Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Nog Low Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Adam's Apoplexy Variation Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Kids Trick Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
No Hands Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* Boris the Beanstalk Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Coprophilia Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Jackass Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Reformatory Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Right Angle Overhang Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Space Odyssey Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Come Short Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Cryptotermes Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
* Schadenfreude Direct Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Sunshine Chute Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Bee Sting Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Jugular Vein Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Spooky the Tuff Li'l Ghost Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Abstentia Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
Cardiac Arrest Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
* Morsel Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
16 Farewell Angelina Unknown 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
* Quality Street Trad 1.1.1.3. Quality Street Area
* Old Man's Climb Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Moon Walk Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
The Great Unwashed Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
** Winnie-the-Pooh Trad 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
** Think Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
** Jean Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Two Thousand and One Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Sabbatarian Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Clematis Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
* Short and Sweet Trad 1.3.2. Short and Sweet Area
17 * Vertigo Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Call of the Wild Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
* Toe Jam Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
Lonely Line Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
Paper Plates and Crumbs Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
** Free Ride Unknown 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Gemini Dream Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
** Gentle Aquarian Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Last Rite Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
** Old Man's Climb Direct Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Champagne Breakfast Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
Ramble Unknown 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
* Tantalus Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
* Space Truckin' Trad 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
* Sidewinder Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* Republic Left Break Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Sweet Fanny Adams Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Gerry's G Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* Couchant Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Delinquent Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Dreamscape Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Kids in America Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Problem Child Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Reformatory/Problem Child Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Return to Fantasy Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Arachnophobia Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Desperation Dash Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Pee Wee Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
** Hades Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
18 Apricot Jam Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Athlete's Foot Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Brutus Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Hightime Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Sunset Wall Trad 1.1.1.2. Eviction Area
* Wall Street Trad 1.1.1.3. Quality Street Area
The Archetypal Herbivore Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
* A Cold Fact Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Cadenza Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Generation Gap Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Goofball Crack Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Pink Void Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
* Eroticon Six Trad 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
The Wizard of Froboz Trad 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
Dilemma Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
** If Camels Could Climb Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Long Stop Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Pendulum Direct Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Reluctant Newton Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
The Tears Behind Your Eyes Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Then Elephants Could Dyno Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Think Thrice Unknown 14m 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Think Twice Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
Dingleberry Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
If Rape is Inevitable Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Sigmund Freude Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Con Mucho Gusto Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Spider Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Eff Six Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
Land of Nod Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
19 Rainy Day Dreamaway Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Umgodoy Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
Coma Unknown 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Lurkules Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Microphobia Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* The Fire Still Remains Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Whippersnapper Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Eskumbu Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
* Fragmentation Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
Skullduggery Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
* Magrathea Trad 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
** Pub Lunch Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Top Heavy Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
*** Fiddler in the Roof Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* Girdle Traverse Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Exit from Reality Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* What A Way To Go Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
No Name Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
20 * Technical Ecstasy Trad 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
Psychopath Trad 1.1.1.3. Quality Street Area
Son of a Gun Trad 1.1.1.3. Quality Street Area
* Pandora's Box Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
* Youngster's Line Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Obsession Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
* Foreign Intervention Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
** Sizzle Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
* Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
Awaiting His Return Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Fall Out Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Hokkaido Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* Pin Up Trad 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Death Wish Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Suicide Wall Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Daydreamer Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
* Tangerine Dream Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
Blood, Sweat and Tears Trad 1.3.2. Short and Sweet Area
The Divine Existentialist Mission Trad 1.3.2. Short and Sweet Area
21 Love of the Common People Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
Nuke the Gay Whales Trad 1.1.2.2. Morning Tea Area
* Tired Geddon Trad 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
The Supercillian Connection Trad 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
Dark Side of the Moon Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
Satellite Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* Ape Call Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Camel's Direct Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
Fringe of Freedom Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Sunset Boulevard Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
** Pin Up Direct Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
The Sting Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
** Direct Insult Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Earth, Wind and Fire Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Edge of Eternity Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Gates of Delirium Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Dance the Instinct Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
* Blood on the Tracks Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
** Child in Time Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
Countdown to Ecstasy Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
* Freewheelin' Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
* Sight for Sore Eyes Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
22 ** Highball Shooter Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Slut Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
Stormbringer Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Frazzle Mixed 1 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
Planet Claire Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* Noggon Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
** Powderfinger Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
** Hallucination Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Powertools Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* The Entertainer Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* Christmas Wall Mixed 5 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Daylight Robertsry Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
Lord of the Rings Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Violent Haze Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
** Way Wad Wodger Weturns Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Rubber Arm Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
The Other Alternative Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
23 ** Ballet Mecanique Trad 1.1.1.4. Tiny's Toddle Area
** Fingertip Trip Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Sister Morphine Trad 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
** Tight Arsed Egomaniacs Mixed 2 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
** Telegraph Road Trad 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
** Hallucination Direct Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
* The Entertainer Direct Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
*** Pieces of the Sky Unknown 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Warchild Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Fear of Flight Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
*** Time is Tight Trad 1.3.1. Time is Tight Area
24 * Clubbing Andre Sport 1.1.1.1. Vertigo Area
** The Leper Messiah Mixed 2 1.1.2.4. Winnie-the-Pooh Wall
* Dazzle Mixed 1 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
* An Instant in the Wind Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* A Seal's Life is Short, Hard and Brutish Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
** Knives in the Moon Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Superbrat Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Child of Darkness Direct Trad 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
*** Granny's Souped Up Wheelchair Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
Obscene Stone Call Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
** The Empty Void Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
** The Tears of a Clown Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
** Angel Dust Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Monkey Heaven Mixed 1 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Stone Judgement Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Walk of Life Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
* Petrified Ice Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
Umbrellas in the Drizzle Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
** Motorpsycho Nightmare Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
*** The Road to Recognition Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
* The Kakamas Cling Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
25 ** The Big Pink Stiff One Mixed 3 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area
* Zzed Aversion Mixed 1 1.1.2.5. Hot Head & Sizzle Wall
** The Flames of Sunset Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* The Flames of Sunset Direct Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
*** Child of Darkness Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Silverado Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
* Chariots of Fire Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
*** Angel Dust Direct Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** A Perverted Fear of Violence Unknown 1.2.2.1. Jack the Ripper / Paralysis Areas
* Silver and Gold Unknown 1.2.2.2. The Utopia Area
26 ** Slave to the Rhythm Mixed 3 1.1.2.3. Eskumbu Area
** Flaming Desperation Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
** Wild Sky Trad 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
* Soulbiter Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
* Stalking the Nightmare Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
** White Rider Unknown 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
*** Barrier of Spears Mixed 2 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Out of the Blue Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Shadows in the Rain Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
* Umbrellas in the Drizzle Direct Trad 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
27 * Daylight Again Mixed 1 1.1.2.6. The Flames Wall
A Touch of Magic Unknown 1.1.3.1. The Pendulum Area
** Sleep of Unreason Sport 1.1.3.2. The Think Area
** Zone Five Unknown 1.1.3.3. The Hallucination Area
** Dusklands Mixed 2 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
** Wilderness of Pain Trad 1.2.1.1. Pieces of the Sky to Angel Dust Wall
28 ** Satin Motion Sport 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
- DEF Unknown 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
K1 Unknown 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
K2 Unknown 1.2.1.2. The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress
? First Class Unknown 1.1.2.1. Black Diedre Area