Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Far Eastern Buttress Vertigo Area | |||||
12 | Twins
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15 | ★ Necrosis
Walk about fifteen metres left (east) from the bottom of the scramble. The climb starts just to the left of a small fig tree growing up against the face. The letters 'NS' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up for a couple of moves to reach a recess. Continue straight up the recess to a small overhang. Side-step this to the right and then move up to another small overhang. Step out to the left to gain the face above the first overhang. Move up and right to reach a shallow recess. Climb this to the top. Variation: From the second small roof, traverse out to the right for about 3m until the roof merges with the face. From here move straight up a shallow recess to the top. FA: Brian Shuttleworth & Rich Smithers, 1978 | ||||
13 | ★ Deliverance
The letters 'DE' are painted in yellow at the start which is about 5 m left from the bottom of the scramble. Climb a short recess to the overhang and then traverse left around a corner over two wedged blocks (well tested by a local heavyweight!) to the foot of a large, right-tending ramp. Climb the ramp keeping to the right hand side. Variation: An alternative (grade 14) is to start from a point below, and slightly to the left, of the wedged blocks. Climb up, tending right and pull up onto the wedged blocks. A move or two to the left gives access to the start of the ramp. FA: Rich Smithers & Brian Shuttleworth, 1976 | ||||
20 | ★★ Technical Ecstasy
This steep, technical route is very photogenic from the scramble down. Start three metres left of Vertigo. Climb up and slightly left to a block. Climb steeply up to the left via two pockets to a rail (crux), then up to the top keeping right of the arete. FA: Adrian Hill, 1980 | ||||
17 | ★ Vertigo
Three-quarters of the way down the scramble an obvious recess is seen on the left (looking up the scramble). Climb this and finish directly up the blocky face above. A technical line. FA: Brian & Colin Shuttleworth, 1976 | ||||
16 | Farewell Angelina
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14 | Enema
Start about 10 m right of the scramble. Climb a short steep section to a large, dirty ledge. Continue up to a cubbyhole beneath a large overhang. Use a foot rail to move out to the right under the roof and then pull through the roof at its right-hand end. Climb to the top on the right hand face. Starting at the yellow letters 'EA' painted on the rock is much harder than grade 14. A start more in keeping with this grade can be achieved by starting about 3 m to the left and then climbing up diagonally to the right to reach the ledge. Not a great line, but worth doing for the excellent moves below and around the roof. FA: Carless Freer, Roy Gooden & Rodney Owen, 1977 | ||||
18 | ★ Apricot Jam
Start five metres to the right of Enema at the foot of a small recess. The letters 'AJ' are painted in yellow at the start. Climb up for five metres and then move left into a small recess with a crack. Move around the bulge above and then left to a small ledge. Finish slightly left up the nose. FA: Adrian Hill & Roy Gooden, 1981 | ||||
14 | ★ Hot Line
Starts just to the right of Apricot Jam - the letters 'HT' are painted in yellow at the start. Layback up the short crack to a ramp just to the right of Apricot Jam. Move left at the overhang onto a ledge and exit up the clean face on the left. Fun moves and well protected. FA: Roy Gooden & Adrian Hill, 1981 | ||||
11 | Bali Hai
Climb the obvious recess with a crack around the corner from Enema. FA: David Freer, Tim Foley & Caroline Biggs | ||||
19 | ★ Rainy Day Dreamaway
Thirty metres right of the scramble is a recess with a tree at its base. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the recess, moving onto a block beneath a small roof. Pull through roof and finish directly up the face above. FA: Steve Bradshaw & Adrian Jardin, 1980 | ||||
14 | ★ Strawberry Jamb
Towards the right hand side of the ledge there is a big dihedral with a narrow, orange face on the left. This face can be clearly seen from the top of Hot Line. The letters 'SJ' were painted in yellow at the start but it currently looks like 'ST'. Climb straight up to reach a ledge below the start of an obvious fist jam crack. Climb the crack and move to the right near the top. This is hard for a 14 unless you can jam well - a variation more in keeping with the grade is given below. Variation: Climb up to the ledge below the start of the crack. Move left and climb the corner for a couple of metres until it is possible to move out right on a good foot rail to gain the crack line about halfway up. Continue up the crack moving slightly to the right near the top. Short, but interesting. FA: Tony Dickens & John Cheesmond, 1974 | ||||
14 | ★ Colonel Saunders
Mildly strenuous, but well protected. Beware of loose blocks. Start around the corner from Strawberry Jamb and to the left of the large roofs. Climb up a steep broken face and traverse right below a projecting block. Move up and left into the large recess. Climb this for a few moves and exit to the left. FA: Tony Dickens & John Cheesmond, 1974 | ||||
15 | ★ Et Tu
Climb the recess ten metres to the left of Brutus. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
18 | ★ Brutus
This line takes the obvious bottomless recess above the ledge. Climb the obvious corner and move out right to rest on the nose. Step left onto two "stepping stones" and then climb up into the bottomless open book, where the quality of the rock improves. Follow the recess to the top. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
15 | ★ Flabbergasp
FA: Des Watkins, 1955 | ||||
18 | ★ Hightime
A difficult take-off is followed by easier climbing. Start five metres right of Flabbergasp. Climb through a bulge to a ledge and then right onto a block. Climb up to the base of a crack and exit up the nose. FA: Adrian Hill, Roy Gooden & Rodney Owen, 1979 | ||||
18 | Athlete's Foot
Start at a small tree three metres to the right of Hightime. Move up to a large ledge, up the big recess and follow the curving crack to another recess. Exit left. FA: Carless Freer & Roy Gooden, 1979 | ||||
14 | Grasp
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Far Eastern Buttress Eviction Area | |||||
11 | Chocolate Tokolosh
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14 | Long Drop
Abseil onto, or scramble up to the ledge around the corner to the right of Grasp. Climb the recess to a roof and then up the obvious bottomless chimney to the top. FA: Brian Shuttleworth & Rich Smithers, 1978 | ||||
17 | ★ Toe Jam
This is a worthwhile route on clean rock with an interesting jam crack. Start three metres right of the Long Drop recess. Climb up the face to under the crack in the roof. Break through and jam/climb the crack to a small roof. Traverse right across a slab to the corner. Climb onto a block and then up and left to exit. FA: Rich Smithers & Ann Hayes, 1978 | ||||
14 | ★ Elephant's Asshole
The route was named because it was high and dirty, but was "wiped clean" to produce a very pleasant route which ought to be a classic. Either abseil onto, or climb up a short steep face to the big ledge about thirteen metres to the right of the Toe Jam corner and to the left of the large square recess taken by New Rope. Climb the face to an overlap. Pull through this and continue up a short face on the left. Move into the obvious recess and climb this to the top. FA: Mervyn Gans & Alex Simoni, 1978 | ||||
13 | ★★ New Rope
Unsustained with interesting moves, but spoiled by some loose blocks on the upper section. Takes the obvious square recess to the right of Elephant’s Asshole. Abseil onto, or climb up to the big ledge. There is a convenient belay tree on the ledge at the base of the recess. Climb the recess keeping to the left-hand side. Move onto the left corner when the recess steepens, climb up on the left for a few moves and then step right above the steep section to a recess. Beware - the obvious block to pull up on to gain the recess is loose. Climb up using a hold on the left-hand side of the recess, which is followed to the top. FA: Mervyn Gans, Rich Smithers & Mike Roberts, 1975 | ||||
14 | ★ Eviction
Enjoyable climbing on clean rock - worthwhile. Scramble or abseil onto the ledge to the right of the New Rope recess. Climb the crack on the right to an obvious traverse across a smooth face on the left. Climb the slanting groove and continue to the top. FA: Mervyn Gans & Adolf Flockemann, 1975 | ||||
17 | Call of the Wild
Start on the same ledge as Eviction. Climb up on the right for a few moves, then traverse out left onto the nose. Continue up via good moves onto the face and then up the blank-looking face to the top. Gear is very sparse. FA: Evan Wiercx & Deon van der Riet, 1989 | ||||
18 | ★ Sunset Wall
Start near the corner between Eviction and A Twist of Sand. Climb the steep face, avoiding the roofs, up to a ledge. Follow a crack system to another ledge. Start up a steep wall moving slightly left, and continue straight up to a shallow recess on the right of an obvious nose. Layback up this to the top. The first fifteen metres is easy, but unprotected, and the last ten metres is strenuous and committing. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
11 | A Twist of Sand
Overgrown at present, but useful as a reference point. Climb a short steep face to an obvious break in a dirty recess. Keep mainly to the left. FA: Roy Gooden & Rodney Owen, 1979 | ||||
13 | Tumbleweed
Climb the big corner and chimney to the right of A Twist of Sand. Take your gardening gloves and hedge clippers to remove the thorn bush. FA: Roy Gooden & Steve Bradshaw, 1979 | ||||
Far Eastern Buttress Quality Street Area | |||||
16 | ★★ Quality Street
1
16
2
16
This is an impressive line for its grade.
FA: John Fantini & Brian Shuttleworth, 1978 | 2 | |||
20 | ★ Son of a Gun
Takes the recess right of Quality Street up to the large ledge. Pull onto the face above and continue up a faint recess to beneath the top roofs. Climb through these to the top. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
18 | ★★ Wall Street
Takes the red wall right of Quality Street. The crux (2nd pitch) is very run out.
FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Psychopath
Scramble up to a large ledge at the bottom of the corner.
FA: Mike Roberts Rich Smithers & Alan Manson, 1978 | 2 | |||
Far Eastern Buttress Tiny's Toddle Area | |||||
12 | ★ Mother's Day
The only true chimney climb at Monteseel, with an exciting exit. Good for rainy days if you’re desperate to climb or can't afford to go to the pub! Climb the chimney to the left of the Tiny’s Toddle ledge. Stay well inside until forced to traverse out to exit around a block. FA: Des Watkins, Rae Adams, Hugh Carbutt, Maureen Thomson & Pam Leppan, 1959 | ||||
19 | ★★ Umgodoy
Takes the wall just right of Mother’s Day. Protection is tricky FA: Paul Firman & Alan Manson, 1979 | ||||
20 | ★ Pandora's Box
Start three metres left of Tiny’s Toddle. Climb straight up the wall to exit left of the roof at the top. Gear is very sparse. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton, 1988 | ||||
14 | ★★ Tiny's Toddle
This is a Monteseel classic. It is fairly sustained, but is well protected. The climb takes the corner capped by a roof. Climb the crack in the corner from the ledge to just under a bulge. Bypass this by traversing left onto the face and then up to exit right under the roof. FA: Sherman Ripley & Tony Ferrar, 1962 | ||||
23 | ★★ Ballet Mecanique
Takes the smooth wall right of Tiny’s Toddle. Start at the right hand edge of the ledge and climb directly up past a peg and a bolt to exit slightly right. Friends ½ to 1½ are useful. FA: Egmont Goedeke & Gerald Camp, 1988 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Archetypal Herbivore
Start as for Ballet Mechanique. Climb the corners and roofs to the right. Move around the corner at the last roof and exit up the short off-width crack. FA: Gerald Camp, 1988 | ||||
15 | Fulcrum
Start around the corner from The Archetypal Herbivore. Climb the short face underneath the overhang, and traverse left and up onto a ledge. Follow the recess above, move left and continue up to gain another ledge. Take the break to the top. FA: Mike Roberts & Rich Smithers, 1978 | ||||
15 | Just a Touch
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17 | Paper Plates and Crumbs
The route is better than its name suggests. Normally reached by scrambling onto a large ledge about twenty metres to the right of the climb and walking along to below the corner. Climb up from the ledge to the crack in the corner, which is followed to the top. Sustained. FA: Paul Firman & Alan Manson, 1979 | ||||
17 | ★ Lonely Line
A pleasant crux on an otherwise arbitrary route. Take the obvious jam crack seven metres right of Paper Plates and Crumbs. Finish directly above. FA: Alan Manson & Paul Firman, 1979 | ||||
Central Eastern Buttress Black Diedre Area | |||||
25 | ★★ The Big Pink Stiff One
About thirty paces on the eastern side of Black Diedre is a single bolt belay at the top of the crag. The climb is directly below and is protected by three bolts, a number 1½ Friend and a no 5 Rock. The first ascentionist bets that you don’t flash it! FA: A. Lamming, 1993 | 3 | |||
19 | Coma
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First Class
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18 | ★ Cadenza
Strenuous and not so well protected. Start two metres left of New Hoek. Climb up a vague crack for two metres and then traverse left on small holds to the edge of the face. Climb directly up to a small ledge and then finish up the face above. As a variation, climb straight up a shallow recess from the start and then traverse left to the original line. FA: Adrian Hill, 1978 | ||||
14 | Impulse
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11 | ★ New Hoek
An easy, but interesting route with a nice finish. Climb the shallow corner at the end of the ledge up to a point where it is possible to traverse right and mantleshelf onto a block. Climb up from the block, tending slightly right and then left and up to finish on a clean face. FA: Tony Ferrar, 1963 | ||||
17 | ★★ Gentle Aquarian
A classic. Sustained and steep in a great position. Start three metres right of New Hoek, around the corner. Pull up around a bulge and climb directly up a steep break to a small ledge. Climb a short face past a peg and then move left onto the corner. Follow a crack to the top. FA: Mike Roberts, Mervyn Gans & Carless Freer, 1977 | ||||
17 | ★★ Gemini Dream
Start in the obvious corner two metres to the right of Gentle Aquarian. Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left and up to reach a small ledge. Climb up the face heading slightly left to reach a peg. Move up to reach another ledge and then traverse right for two metres, where the route touches on Black Diedre. Move back left around the corner to a thin crack which is followed to the top. FA: Roy Gooden & Steve Bradshaw, 1982 | ||||
14 | ★★ Black Diedre
A fine route with some good positions. Climbs the obvious dark streak visible from the top of the crag. Traverse along the ledge to start from a narrow stance, or alternatively start at the bottom of the cliff. Climb the face to reach the recess, which is climbed until forced to traverse to the left using a small incut toe-hold. Continue left around a bulge to reach a small recess. Climb this to a small roof which is bypassed on the right. Continue up a shallow recess to the top. FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1970 | ||||
19 | ★★ The Fire Still Remains
Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Gerald Camp, 1989 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Free Ride
This route follows the old aid route Middle Age opened by Colin and Dave Shuttleworth in the early 70’s. Start on a small ledge about six metres up and to the right of the start to Black Diedre. It is best to belay from the lower ledge. Climb diagonally right to the middle of the wall and then up to an obvious rail. Move up and right to exit up a shallow groove. FA: Mike Roberts, Ian Wallace & Charl Brummer, 1979 | ||||
18 | ★★ A Cold Fact
Start as for Stormbringer. Climb up the face to a peg. Climb directly up the face above to a rail, passing a blade peg to the right. Finish up the same groove as Free Ride. Led out and sustained. FA: Gerald Camp, 1988 | ||||
22 | ★ Stormbringer
Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1980 | ||||
23 | ★★ Fingertip Trip
Start in the faint recess ten metres to the left of Old Man’s Climb.
FFA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979 | 2 | |||
16 | ★★★ Old Man's Climb
One of Monteseel’s classic climbs. Start at the base of an undercut open book.
FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979 | 2 | |||
17 | ★★★ Old Man's Climb Direct
Includes most of the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb which is continued with some exciting climbing in a great position. Climb the first pitch of Old Man’s Climb, but instead of traversing left to the ledge, traverse right around the corner and continue directly up to the top. FA: Brian Shuttleworth & Carless Freer, 1978 | ||||
20 | ★ Youngster's Line
Originally opened with two points of aid. A direct and steep line. Start five metres to the right of Old Man’s Climb. Pull through a small overhang and climb up to a small ledge at the base of a small roof. Pull through the roof into a steep recess and up to a tree about five metres higher. Continue up the break for three metres and then traverse right past two pegs to a shallow scoop. Exit diagonally to the left. FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1970 FFA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1978 | ||||
19 | Lurkules
Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & Mike Hislop, 1989 | ||||
18 | Generation Gap
Start in the big corner right of Youngster’s Line. Climb the large crack/chimney to an obvious traverse onto the left hand wall. At the end of the traverse, climb up and break through the roof to finish. The second half is better than the first. FA: Rich Smithers & Mike Roberts, 1978 | ||||
19 | ★★ Microphobia
A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit. FA: Alan Manson, Paul Firman & Pete Muir, 1979 | ||||
19 | ★ Whippersnapper
A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left. FA: Rich Smithers & Mike Roberts, 1976 | ||||
22 | ★★ Highball Shooter
Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia. FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979 | ||||
22 | Slut
Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush. FA: Andy de Klerk & Steve Bradshaw, 1983 | ||||
23 | ★ Sister Morphine
Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook. FA: Tim Hoole, 1989 | ||||
13 | Virgin
Takes the crack in the corner below the abseil (fig) tree. Climb a short broken section past a tree to the base of the crack. Climb the crack, exiting slightly right to avoid a bulge near the top. Considerably harder if you face the wrong way. FA: Sherman Ripley, Jim Pike & Jim Thomson, 1968 | ||||
18 | ★★ Goofball Crack
Good climbing on both pitches, but watch out as some 18’s are harder than others.
FA: Mike Roberts & Shaun Peard, 1978 | 2 | |||
15 | Burnt Hands
The name refers to an unexpected fall on the first ascent. Start from some blocks to the left of Goofball Crack, directly below a large overhang.
FA: Mike Roberts & Roy Gooden, 1977 | 2 | |||
17 | Last Rite
Start from the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Burnt Hands. Climb the crack in the corner on the right. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
Central Eastern Buttress Morning Tea Area | |||||
18 | Pink Void
Start on a huge block. Climb up a steep section and then on easier rock to an old peg. Traverse left and then up another steep section to a second peg beneath a small roof at the base of a blank wall. Traverse left on a poor rail to a crack and climb the face above to a ledge. Move right and exit up a steep recess. FA: Adrian Hill & Steve Asbury, 1978 | ||||
16 | ★ Moon Walk
An easy line through an impressive overhang. Start about twenty five metres right of Pink Void and scramble up the obvious fault with a tree in it. Traverse to below a huge roof and follow the crack through this to the top. FA: Mike Roberts & Alan Manson, 1980 | ||||
21 | Love of the Common People
Takes the impressive wall left of The Great Unwashed. Start at the tree at the bottom. Climb up blocks to a rail then diagonally left to a smooth face. Climb this on fragile holds to a rail and then into a cubbyhole to the right of a small cave. Move out right onto good rock, up for five metres and then back left to a rail and up to exit. FA: Steve Bradshaw & Craig Attwell, 1984 | ||||
16 | The Great Unwashed
Steep, but unsustained with some pleasant climbing. Needs occasional gardening, but worth the effort. Start further down on the left-hand side of the same ledge as Afternoon/Morning Tea. Climb the broken recess to a cubbyhole under the small overhang. Pull through this on the right and then move back left to a crack. Climb this to the top. FA: Colin Shuttleworth, 1970 | ||||
13 | Afternoon Tea
A short climb with a pleasant finish. Climb the crack in the corner to the right of The Great Unwashed until it is possible to traverse out right onto the face, which is followed to the top. Alternatively, continue up the crack. FA: Jim MacInnes & Jim Thomson, 1962 | ||||
15 | Morning Tea
A short, but steep crack climb. Climb the crack in the face to the right of Afternoon Tea. Exit slightly right up a small face. This route was originally graded at 15, but has been changed to 17 by consensus. FA: Alan Whittaker & Dave Cheesmond, 1971 | ||||
17 | ★ Champagne Breakfast
Climb the face and arete to the right of Morning Tea. Two pegs. FA: Steve Salmon, 1989 | ||||
21 | Nuke the Gay Whales
Start on the left of the ledge below Morning Tea. Climb up the flake line to a rail, move left and continue up to a large jug. Move back right to a rail and finish straight up. FA: Mike Hislop & Cathy O’ Dowd, 1989 | ||||
Central Eastern Buttress Eskumbu Area | |||||
15 | ★ Galadriel
Takes the obvious recess (with tree) to the west of Morning Tea.
FA: Gary Zank, Nick Nevin, Roy Gooden & Adrian Hill, 1981 | 2 | |||
15 | No Lunch
Worth doing for the crux on the second pitch, which is spectacular.
FA: Norman Hart & Tony Goodyear, 1970 | 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Slave to the Rhythm
A long, thirty metre line up the face to the left of Eskumbu. Start below a peg, then up past a bolt to a rail. Continue up to a short, overhanging wall then straight up past a blade to the smooth face with two bolts. Finish up the open book. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988 | 3 | |||
19 | ★★★ Eskumbu
First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.
FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1970 FFA: Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes & Roy Gooden, 1976 | 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Fragmentation
A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.
FA: Mike Roberts, Brian Shuttleworth & Roy Gooden, 1978 | 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Skullduggery
Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain. FA: Rich Smithers & John Fantini, 1978 | ||||
17 | Tantalus
An excellent top pitch with a fine exit. The route takes the obvious big corner to the right of Fragmentation.
FA: Tony Goodyear, 1964 | 2 | |||
20 | ★ Obsession
Poor rock in parts. Starts just left of a recess.
FA: Rich Smithers & Mike Roberts, 1978 | 2 | |||
9 | Owl
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17 | Ramble
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21 | ★★ Tired Geddon
First free ascent: John Fantini and Rich Smithers, 1978 Originally an aid route, it was freed to provide a spectacular route through impressive roofs on both pitches. Starts in the corner under the huge roofs.
FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle, 1969 | 2 | |||
Central Eastern Buttress Winnie-the-Pooh Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Space Truckin'
Airy and exposed. Start on the Owl scramble ledge. Climb past a peg to a rail. Traverse left along this to just before the end of the face. Climb a shallow recess from a small ledge past a wedged block. Climb diagonally left and exit by moving around the corner to finish up the last two metres of Tired Geddon. FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979 | ||||
19 | ★ Magrathea
The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge. Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess. FA: Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle FFA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Grant Cockburn, 1988 | ||||
18 | ★ Eroticon Six
Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds. FA: Andrew Russel-Boulton & Gerald Camp, 1988 | ||||
14 | Crumble
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16 | ★★ Winnie-the-Pooh
Excellent climbing on a steep wall, and a good test of nerve for the leader. Start on the Owl ledge as for Space Truckin’. Climb up past the peg and follow a diagonal line of good incut finger holds to the base of a recess on the right (unprotected between the peg and recess, but a bomb-proof wire can be placed in the rail by moving slightly left after passing the peg). Climb the recess to the top. FA: Mike Roberts & Ian Wallace, 1979 | ||||
24 | ★★ The Leper Messiah
Start two metres right of Winnie-the-Pooh. Climb straight up on micro-thin edges past two bolts, and then up just right of a crack to a rail. Step right at the rail and then up the wall past a crescent-shaped pocket. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988 | 2 | |||
23 | ★ Tight Arsed Egomaniacs
Start right of The Leper Messiah next to a small open book. Climb up past a rail to a second rail. Climb straight up past two bolts to the top. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988 | 2 | |||
18 | ★ The Wizard of Froboz
Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs FA: Tim Goodwin & Evan Wiercx, 1985 | ||||
Central Eastern Buttress Hot Head & Sizzle Wall | |||||
21 | The Supercillian Connection
Take the first break to the left of Foreign Intervention and Hot Head. Climb the recess to a steep face, and then past two pegs to finish. FA: Steve Bradshaw & Andrew Ashford-Jack | ||||
20 | ★ Foreign Intervention
Start at the end of the blocky ledge, two metres left of Hot Head. Climb directly up into the crack which is visible to the right of Hot Head, between Hot Head and Zzed Aversion. Contrived but worthwhile. FA: Clive Curson, Stuart Brown & Charles Edelstein, 1985 |