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Start up the centre of the face just to the right of the No Thoroughfare corner/crack. Move up and left to reach a left-slanting, off balance crack. Alternatively, and more popularly, pull up on a jug to the right of the No Thoroughfare crack and move up and right to gain the left-slanting crack. Climb this until it is possible to move up left to a position under the roof which is split by a crack. Jam in the roof and reach around to good holds on the face above. Pull through and then finish up easy rock to the right.

A fine introduction to the subtleties of a roof crack. The moves up to the overhang were done together with Dave Cheesmond and Roy Gooden in 1978, and provide a sustained first section in keeping with the rest of the climb. A lot of 'pretenders' climb the No Thoroughfare corner to reach the roof - this is definitely 'not cricket'

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Roberts and Rich Smithers, 1977


Located in The Hallucination Area approx:
Long/Lat: 30.681118,-29.734850

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 ** The Mountain Club of South Africa, KwaZulu / Natal Section (Gavin Peckham)

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 73%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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