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Description:

Start up the centre of the face just to the right of the No Thoroughfare corner/crack. Move up and left to reach a left-slanting, off balance crack. Alternatively, and more popularly, pull up on a jug to the right of the No Thoroughfare crack and move up and right to gain the left-slanting crack. Climb this until it is possible to move up left to a position under the roof which is split by a crack. Jam in the roof and reach around to good holds on the face above. Pull through and then finish up easy rock to the right.

A fine introduction to the subtleties of a roof crack. The moves up to the overhang were done together with Dave Cheesmond and Roy Gooden in 1978, and provide a sustained first section in keeping with the rest of the climb. A lot of 'pretenders' climb the No Thoroughfare corner to reach the roof - this is definitely 'not cricket'

Ethic: inherited from Monteseel

Climbing is allowed as long as no plants are damaged. No bolting is allowed. Most pegs have been cut. No damaging the rock in anyway. There are people living below so no throwing things off the cliff. There are also people living above the cliff so be respectful.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Roberts & Rich Smithers, 1977

Location:  

Located in The Hallucination Area approx:
Long/Lat: 30.681118,-29.734850

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 ** The Mountain Club of South Africa, KwaZulu / Natal Section (Gavin Peckham)

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 73%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

nice

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