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Description

Follow the descent gulley/track all the way to where it curves around to the left. It soon runs parallel with the river, directly towards the crag. Just follow the track to a boma, then the continuation path after this through the forest to the big pool. The East Wing is the crag up to your left. Scramble up to the base of the crag and walk left to the routes.

Access issues inherited from Magageni

The JHB MCSA gets access here once a year for a meet, usually in September. Consult their meet sheet. The land is privately owned and, although the land-owner is climber-friendly, he values his privacy and his property very highly. So if you want to climb here, go through the MCSA and FOLLOW ALL THE RULES GIVEN BY THE LANDOWNER! Usually he requires: 1) Names and telephone numbers of members of your club who will be in the group. 2) Car registration numbers. 3) Time of arrival. 4) Everyone will have to sign an indemnity form on arrival. The gates are normally locked and the land-owner makes an arrangement with his employee to open for climbers at a pre-arranged time. DO NOT BE LATE BECAUSE THERE IS NO CELL PHONE SIGNAL AND YOU WILL PISS EVERYONE OFF IF THE GATE-KEEPER IS KEPT WAITING! There are a number of dwellings on the property. Please stay well away from these and respect the privacy of the land-owner and his family/guests.

Ethic inherited from Magageni

NO BOLTING!!!!

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Climbs the front of a large pillar/buttress at the far left end of the East wing. Walk up to the base of the East wing from the big pool beneath the waterfall. Walk left beneath the crag, past the massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). You can see the buttress/pillar from here. Walk to the base of the buttress. It is the last good rock before the descent gulley. (You can see the climb well from the descent gulley - great photo opportunities). Start towards the left of the buttress. 1. 50m, 21 Climb straight up on crazy jugs. When these die step left and climb the arĂȘte (gear is adequate). Pass the roof to the left and continue up the face above to the top. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16. Descent: Scramble rightwards off the top of the buttress. Walk right along the bushy ledge to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree on a big block just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top.

FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys, 2010

2
SA 20 *** THE GAY MONKEY Trad

Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). Immediately to the right is a buttress with a large, detached block at its base (HANDJAM ascends this buttress). The next buttress further right has an obvious splitter up a slab for its top third. This route ascends the splitter. Start directly beneath it. 1. 60m, 20 Climb up easy rock until it steepens. Step out right to a flake line that curves up and right. Up this to where it dies. Climb diagonally left on excellent jugs (runout) to a ledge. Step left to the main corner crack. Up this to where it ends and continue up the face above to the bottom of the splitter. Climb the splitter and exit left at the top to a tree belay. FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrell, Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle, Herman Uys 2010-10-16. Descent: Abseil off the tree or climb a short scramble and top out. Notes: The splitter was originally approached by doing the first pitch of HANDJAM and then traversing right, by Ian, Graham and Christie, Sept 2010.

FA: Ian Kotze, Graham Terrell, Christie Terrell, Hector Pringle, Herman Uys, 2010

3
SA 22 *** NAKED REPTILE Trad

Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack. 1. 50m, 22A0 Climb the corner to the base of the roof. Undercling left and crank round the left edge of the roof into a corner. Up this until able to step left to gain the base of the splitter. Climb the splitter to a good rail. Step left to the arĂȘte and climb this until able to step back right into the continuation of the splitter. Climb this for a few meters and then step left again to climb jugs to a good ledge in an alcove. 2. 30m, 17 Climb the crack above and left of the alcove. Follow your nose to the top. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16. Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top. Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent. From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory.

FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys, 2010