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Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack. 1. 50m, 22A0 Climb the corner to the base of the roof. Undercling left and crank round the left edge of the roof into a corner. Up this until able to step left to gain the base of the splitter. Climb the splitter to a good rail. Step left to the arête and climb this until able to step back right into the continuation of the splitter. Climb this for a few meters and then step left again to climb jugs to a good ledge in an alcove. 2. 30m, 17 Climb the crack above and left of the alcove. Follow your nose to the top. FA: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-16. Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top. Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent. From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory.
First Ascent: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys, 16 Oct 2010
Route Grade Citations