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Description:

Standing near the big pool one can see a very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. This is THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM. The next deep open book to the right of this (about 30m right, and right of the cave) is a large offwidth crack. This is KNEEJAM BLUES. HEAD ARRANGEMENT starts as for KNEEJAM BLUES and then branches off left and heads for the big roof. It breaks around the left edge of the roof and ascends the headwall to the top. 1. 30m, 16 Climb the first pitch of KNEEJAM BLUES to where that route heads up to the obvious massive open book. Continue up the pleasant corner to a block stance at an acacia tree. 2. 25m, 20 Climb the continuation corner above, past a fig tree (the original route went left to the arête for a stance and then back right into the corner). Make wild moves rightwards past the overhang and climb the slab until able to step left to a good crack line in the face. Climb this for a few meters and take a semi-hanging stance (It is possible to stance on the right soon after pulling past the overhang, but it is then very tricky to get back onto the face). 3. 40m, 22 Climb up to a rail about 3m below the roof. Rail left to a perch where the roof pinches out. Reach far left and crank through to gain the headwall crack. Climb this to easier ground. Jug-haul to the top. FA: J. Fantini, G. Moseley, 1980. FFA Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys 2010-10-17. Notes: The original HEAD ARRANGEMENT first pitch starts about 5m left of KNEEJAM BLUES and is graded 19A1. It looks very dirty and unappealing, but still awaits a FFA.

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Hector Pringle, Ian Kotze, Herman Uys, 17 Oct 2010

  • First Ascent: J. Fantini, G. Moseley,, 1980

Location:  

Located in Mpumalanga approx:
Long/Lat: 30.298550,-25.873967

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22 *** Branden

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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