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Grade Route

Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's southern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders).

FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan, Oct 2009

This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete.

  • Pitch 1 (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance.
  • Pitch 2 (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge.
  • Pitch 3 (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors.
  • Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground - just!

FA: ince Egan & Ed McLenaghan, 1 Apr 2010


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