Lord of The Rings Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Marc dM Claudio De Luca Francois Pieterse Carlo Antonelli Sean Cormac Tooze @willem Ebert Nel Jan Georg van Rooyen Dewald Kloppers

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1. Lord of The Rings 34 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Lord of The Rings 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -25.721656, 27.849904

description

This crag is past the Harry Potter section following the scree path all the way to the top large cave.

The crag is directly below a nest site for a pair of Verreaux Eagles (Black Eagle). During the breeding months from April to September, it may be closed if there is nesting activity. Please check on entry at the signboard by the parking if this crag is open or closed.

This crag is in the shade most of the day with some areas being in the sun late afternoon. This crag is mostly overhanging.

access issues

Due to past safety issues, as of mid 2011 the following access arrangements were negotiated by the MCSA with Mount Amanzi, which has legal control of the land:

Only recognised climbing club members (MCSA, SANCF, or University) who have an up-to-date membership card, with a photo, are allowed to climb at the Chosspile.

Each card holder is allowed to bring two guests as current status of October 2018.

Members and guests first report to Mount Amanzi’s reception (same side of the road, but across the river from the Chosspile) where they sign an indemnity and pay R30 per card-holder and 50R per guest. Update 2019: You will receive as well the (weekly renewed) gate lock combination. The car guards will be directly at the park site instead of at the gate previously.

Although guards are paid R5 per guest, please feel free to supplement their earnings.

Note: Yearly passes are available.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

inherited from Chosspile

approach

From the park area follow the well marked path on the left, cross the bridge, and up, up, up ! Follow the full length of Harry Potter to the right, and another 5min up.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Pipe Weed Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2005	22	Sport 8
2	★ Frodo / Exit Planet Dust Starts with Pipe Weed. Following the crackline through a small mantleshelf and a cunning ending. First bolt is high, scramble up carefully and consider using temporarily the first bolt of Pipe Weed. Unclip once on next bolt. Set: Rob Brinkworth & Mark Olver FA: Rob Brinkworth, 2005	18	Sport 9
3	★★ A Shortcut To Mushrooms Start outside the left corner of the cave, finishes up a highly visible yellow lichen covered face. Mostly right-facing. Pumpy start sure to get your blood flowing for greater things in the cave! FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	21	Sport 8
4	Voices Of Saruman FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	23	Sport 8
5	★ Gandalf FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	24	Sport 20m, 9
6	★ Mourn Not Overmuch FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	25	Sport 20m, 9
7	Halfling Use first 3 bolts of Mourn not Overmuch. Finish on the chains of Gollum. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004	26	Sport 10
8	★ Gollum FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	24	Sport 9
9	Gollum Extention 2nd pitch of Gollum, rarely climbed FA: Colin Crabtree Set: Peter Lazarus, 1993		Sport
10	Big Bully Set: Andrew Pedley & Wesley Black FA: Andrey Pedley, 2015	29	Sport 10
11	★★ Bully For Brontosaurus FA: Peter Lazarus, 1994	29	Sport 20m, 8
12	★★ Tyrannosaurus Pex FA: Willem le Roux, 2006	27	Sport 7
13	In The Eye Of Smaug Set: Ebert Nel, 2014		SportProject
14	★★★ Shadowfax Set: Pieter Martin FA: Andrew Pedley, 2013	33	Sport 9
15	The Chossfather Set: Andrew Pedley, 2012 FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012	28	Sport 8
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
16	Don't Let Go Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings. FA: Brian Weaver, 2012	28	Sport
17	★ Don't Deck There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down. Starts at the obvious hacked stump. FA: Michael Cartwright, 1993	23	Sport 9
18	Don't Deck Extension Rightward extension of Don't Deck ending on Fossil Fuel. FA: Harry Crews, 2009	27	Sport 15
19	Shelob Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now. Set: Wesley Black, 2011 FA: Wesley Black, 2013	24 - 26	Sport 8
20	Anduril Flame of the West Set: Wesley Black, 2011 FA: Joey Kinder, 2011	31	Sport 11
21	★★ Fossil Fuel FA: Ralph Brucher, 2000	32	Sport 11
22	Peddle to the Metal Project from Andrew Peddley, 33-ish Split right from 2n draw of Fossil Fuel. 7 New bolts and chains Set: Andrew Pedley, Jun 2019		SportProject 9
23	Ralph's Open Project Set: Ralph Brucher		SportProject
24	Frak-It Set: Andrew Pedley FA: Andrew Pedley, 2014	31	Sport
25	Pieter Martin's Open Project Set: Pieter Martin		SportProject
26	Bio DIesel Set: Colin Crabtree FA: Andrew Pedley, 2013	30	Sport 9
27	★ Grimslade FA: Peter Lazarus	27	Sport 10m, 7
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
28	★ Unfinished Business	23	Sport 7
29	★ Hobbitry In Arms FA: Peter Lazarus, 1993	20	Sport 6
30	★ Ramble On Just to the right of the small cave roof at the far right of Lord of the Rings.	18	Sport 6
31	★ Hendrik And The Ents FA: Neil Margetts, 2014	18	Sport 6
32	★★★ Lord of the Ring Sting Left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. Technical thin climbing to arete. End on same face as SCTM, stay left. Has its own anchors. FA: Carlo Antonelli, 28 Jan	22	Sport 20m
33	★★★ My Precious Pex T-Pex/Gollum link up. Start on T-Pec Direct, move left and end on Gollum, Gollum hole is out. FA: Carlo Antonelli, 10 Dec	25	Sport 20m, 9
34	★★★ T-Pex Direct Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave! FA: Wesley Black, 2008	29	Sport 20m, 12

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
18	★	Frodo	Sport 9
	★	Hendrik And The Ents	Sport 6
	★	Ramble On	Sport 6
20	★	Hobbitry In Arms	Sport 6
21	★★	A Shortcut To Mushrooms	Sport 8
22	★★★	Lord of the Ring Sting	Sport 20m
		Pipe Weed	Sport 8
23	★	Don't Deck	Sport 9
	★	Unfinished Business	Sport 7
		Voices Of Saruman	Sport 8
24	★	Gandalf	Sport 20m, 9
	★	Gollum	Sport 9
25	★	Mourn Not Overmuch	Sport 20m, 9
	★★★	My Precious Pex	Sport 20m, 9
24 - 26		Shelob	Sport 8
26		Halfling	Sport 10
27		Don't Deck Extension	Sport 15
	★	Grimslade	Sport 10m, 7
	★★	Tyrannosaurus Pex	Sport 7
28		Don't Let Go	Sport
		The Chossfather	Sport 8
29		Big Bully	Sport 10
	★★	Bully For Brontosaurus	Sport 20m, 8
	★★★	T-Pex Direct	Sport 20m, 12
30		Bio DIesel	Sport 9
31		Anduril Flame of the West	Sport 11
		Frak-It	Sport
32	★★	Fossil Fuel	Sport 11
33	★★★	Shadowfax	Sport 9
?		Gollum Extention	Sport
		In The Eye Of Smaug	SportProject
		Peddle to the Metal	SportProject 9
		Pieter Martin's Open Project	SportProject
		Ralph's Open Project	SportProject