A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Tea Garden
36 in Field
- 1.1. Teagarden Roof 10 in Field
- 1.2. A: Hidden Track 2 in Boulder
- 1.3. Warmup 3 in Boulder
- 1.4. Black Shadow / Tea-Lady Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.5. Source of Frustration 1 in Boulder
- 1.6. E: All Day Shade / Behind Some Sweetening 4 in Boulder
- 1.7. F: Recollections of an Injured Man 1 in Boulder
- 1.8. Arch / G 4 in Field
- 1.9. Bang-Bang-Bangity-Bang 1 in Boulder
- 1.10. Ballermann 1 in Boulder
- 1.11. Singing Telegraph 3 in Boulder
- 1.12. Sugar Cube 2 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Tea Garden 36 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -32.144708, 18.944039
Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)
Do not litter ā carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.
Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.
No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)
No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.
access issues
(Leaving this here as its inherited by child locations - please take the time to take pictures of the boulders you visit and post them under the relavent locations so that we can start populating more topos š).
As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.
ethic
The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.
Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.
Our access is not a right, itās a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.
Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.
Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.
1.1. Teagarden Roof 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.142867, 18.945342
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The Tough Danny Boys
Sit-start with flat hold and traverse out left. FA: Kaddi Lehmann, 2010 | {FB} 6C | ||||
| 2 |
★★★ Teagarden Roof / Teagardenroof
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Sit-start with large hold, climb out to large holds and traverse out right along the cozy rail. "Great moves on great holds" FA: Fred Nicole, 2005 | {FB} 7C | ||||
| 3 |
Better Than Nothing
Start as Tea Garden Roof but climb up left and finish on the hold above the lip. FA: CeĢdric Bersandi, 2005 | {FB} 7B+ | ||||
| 4 |
★ Better Than Nothing Direct
Start as Tea Garden Roof but continue straight up and finish on double holds on the lip. | {FB} 7A+ | ||||
| 5 |
★★ F. EMF 1879
Sit-start with slot, move out left then to underclings and climb out rightwards on good holds | {FB} 6B | ||||
| 6 |
F. EMF 1879 Direct
F. EMF 1879 direct exit | 6A | ||||
| 7 |
Bang-Bang-Bangity-Bang
Sit-Start with big hole, dyno to the rail and climb up straight FA: Thomas Stoll, 2016 | 6B | ||||
| 8 |
Barefoot Warm-up
Start on orange rock and climb the face | 5A - B | ||||
| 9 |
Hollow Slab
Start on the jug in the back of the roof. Climb the roof to the lip and then up the centre of the slab. Finish to the right of the prow, avoiding hollow rock. FA: Thomas Arnold, 2023 | 6A+ | ||||
| 10 |
Wrong Roof
Start per F. EMF 1879, climb left under the roof then up the overhanging face, right of black streak using long slots and good jug FA: Thom Arnold, 2023 | 6A+ | ||||
Video1.2. A: Hidden Track 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hidden Track | {FB} 6B | ||||
| 2 | Bonus track | {FB} 5C | ||||
1.3. Warmup 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.142916, 18.946479
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Little Wing
Sit-start with triangle-shaped hold, do a large move up left and climb up the areĢte. FA: Klem Loskot, 1998 | {FB} 7C | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Fakir of Ipi
Sit-start with hour-glass feature and climb up the high seam. FA: Klem Loskot, 1998 | {FB} 7A | ||||
| 3 |
ISW Burger
Sit-start and climb out right. FA: Miha Hribar, 2018 | {FB} 7C | ||||
1.4. Black Shadow 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.142945, 18.946508
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Balancing Through the Tunnel
Start as Black Shadow but traverse low left around the corner, balance through the tunnel and climb upon the big side flake. FA: Thomas Stoll, 2016 | {FB} 7A+ | ||||
| 2 |
★★★ Black Shadow
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Sit-start at the back of the large roof, climb to the slopey lip and finish up left. "Supergeil" FA: Klem Loskot, 2005 | {FB} 8A+ | ||||
| 3 |
★★ Dirty Epic
Start as Black Shadow but take the right line through the roof and finish up the crimpy face. FA: Flo Grimus, 2005 | {FB} 8A | ||||
| 4 |
Brown Shadow
Start as Black Shadow but climb out leftwards through the roof. FA: Daniel Woods, 2008 | {FB} 8A | ||||
1.5. Source of Frustration 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.142915, 18.946535
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Source of Frustration
Sit-start with pockets and climb the crack. FA: Klem Loskot, 1998 | {FB} 6B | ||||
1.6. E: All Day Shade 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.143188, 18.946252
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Behind Some Sweetening
Sit-start with shelf/jug and climb the groove. FA: Klem Loskot, 1998 | {FB} 6A+/B | ||||
| 2 | Dirty Groove | 5B+ - C+ | ||||
| 3 |
Itās Okay
Sit-start with large undercling and climb out right. FA: Thom Arnold, 2023 | 6A+ | ||||
| 4 |
Itās Okay Right
Start on the big undercut as Itās okay. Follow the good holds right along the lip until you reach the black streaks and finish upwards on good holds FA: Thom Arnold, 2023 | 6A | ||||
1.7. F: Recollections of an Injured Man 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Recollections of an Injured Man | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
1.8. Arch 4 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.144062, 18.945511
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Full Arch
Start on the far left side of the arch and add 6 moves to Tea-arch High. FA: Rafael Passos, 2011 | {FB} 7C+ | ||||||
| 2 |
Lunar Aura
Sit-start as Tea-arch but climb out left. FA: Rafael Passos, 2011 | {FB} 7B | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Tea-arch
Sit-start with slots, climb up into underclings and exit out right. FA: Fred Nicole, 2005 | {FB} 7A+ | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Tea-arch High
Start as Tea-arch but from the underclings move into higher slots and climb out right through the roof. FA: Fred Nicole, 2005 | {FB} 7C | ||||||
1.9. Bang-Bang-Bangity-Bang 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bang-Bang-Bangity-Bang | {FB} 6B | ||||
1.10. Ballermann 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.145738, 18.940448
approach
Go to Singing Telegraph, on follow the cairns to east. When going to the top of the small hill, the boulder is on your left side.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ballermann 7
Sit start from the undercling from the start of the roof. FA: Jƻrgen Claus, 2023 | 8A | ||||
1.11. Singing Telegraph 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.146615, 18.945074
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Howling Moon
Sit start, top out same as Singing Telegraph left exit FA: Zoe Duby, 2023 | 6A+ | ||||
| 2 |
Singing Telegraph
Sit-start on the left, move left climbing the overhanging bulge with slopers and finish out left. FA: Jƻrgen Claus, 2023 | 7C | ||||
| 3 |
Singing Telegraph Left
Start as Singing Telegraph but climb out left. FA: JĆ¼rgan Claus, 2022 | 7A | ||||
1.12. Sugar Cube 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -32.143009, 18.944934
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Heel Hooks for Days
Sit start and follow obvious jug curve FA: Sofia Monteiro, 2023 | 5A - B | ||||
| 2 |
Orange Streak Eliminate
Sit start in the bottom of the crack. Move up the crack to the roof then follow the curving slopes onto the orange face and climb the crimps. Avoid jugs on the right. FA: Thom Arnold, 2023 | 6C+ | ||||
