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Description

Around the corner from Aalwynkrans there is an open book with 4-5 routes. Start on the little platform.

Access issues inherited from Sabie Gorge

Drive out of town towards Graskop. Just as you cross the bridge at Sabie Waterfall, turn left and park in the parking area. Walk through under the bridge and follow the footpath for about 130m. To the right there is an easy path down. Stay to the right, back towards the waterfall. Height: 12 – 18m

Routes

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Grade Route
1

On the left hand face. Try to stay away from the obvious crack on the left. Shares the 3rd bolt with PS.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2003

2
16 Pleasant Surprise Sport 8

In the middle of the left hand face. Climb to the anchors on the right.

FA: Tiaan Boshoff, 1996

3
17 The Bulge Sport 6

Just to the right of PS. Share some of the bolts and the same anchors with PS. A thin start. Run out between 3rd and 4th but easy.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 1996

4
19 The Stair Case Sport 8

The right hand side of the open book. The crux is right at the start. The rest is just a nice climb. After the second draw, keep left. Straight up is very easy but with no draws.

FA: Craig le Roux, 1996

5
14 Piece of Cake Sport 7

To the right of TSC. Follow the obvious line from the bottom and share last bolt and anchors with TSC. First bolt is rather high, but easy.

FA: Tania Louw, 2004

6
18 Up in Smoke Sport 9

Just to the left of POC. A tricky start. Don't fumble the third bolt.

FA: Jens Kock, 2007

7
22 Pixy Toes Sport 9

About 13m right from POC before you get to a huge overhang. Start on an arête. The fun starts after you’ve clipped the third draw.

FA: Lourens Inggs, 2005

8
24 Monster Sport

The obvious line under the huge roof, halfway between PT and KA. Climb into the open book to clip the 3rd. Use a longer draw on the 2nd to reduce rope abrasion. You can tie off on the 3rd, wile the be-layer unclip the 1st to reduce drag. Chimney up the open book to the roof. Here the route splits in two. Use a fist jam above you and then move right onto the face, Monster Crunch [F.A. Jaco de Wet 2007 (10D)] or go left, Monster Munch [F.A. Ruan Pretorius 2007 (9D)] and follow an arête to anchors.

9
14 to 17 Kid’s Arête Sport 7

Start in a little corner where there is an overhang on your left with a knobbly face above it. Start on the right and climb unto the face on the left as soon as possible. Go to the arête ASAP with your feet on the little bulge as far down as you can. Climb the arête to the anchors. The further left you stay the more difficult it is – the further right, the easier.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2003

10
14 Kid’s Corner Sport 9

The same as KA and share the same bolts with it. Stay on the face, though, and use different anchors as well as the last 2 bolts.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 1996

11

From the boulder, 3m out from the start of HW and ID, jump to the first hold on the face above the huge roof. Be carefull when on top rope not to land yourself back onto the boulder if you miss the hold! Climb the face to a ledge and then across the horn to the anchors.

FA: Jaco de Wet and Ruan Pretorius, 2007

12
20 Holy Water Sport 10

Start on some blocks in the puddle under a roof. (Keep your feet dry!!) Crank the roof through the obvious line with some good under clings to a chock stone. Climb the face only (20+) or the chimney (9) to anchors.

FA: Jens Kock, 2007

13

Start the same as HW. Do not climb onto the chock stone after the roof, but stay on the arête to the right all the way to top.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2007

14
24 to 25 Blitz Krieg Sport Project

Starts about 3m to the right of HW and ID right underneath the power lines.

FA: Jens Kock