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Around the corner from Aalwynkrans there is an open book with 4-5 routes. Start on the little platform.

Access issues inherited from Sabie Gorge

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


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Grade Route

On the left hand face. Try to stay away from the obvious crack on the left. Shares the 3rd bolt with PS.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2003

In the middle of the left hand face. Climb to the anchors on the right.

FA: Tiaan Boshoff, 1996

Just to the right of PS. Share some of the bolts and the same anchors with PS. A thin start. Run out between 3rd and 4th but easy.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 1996

The right hand side of the open book. The crux is right at the start. The rest is just a nice climb. After the second draw, keep left. Straight up is very easy but with no draws.

FA: Craig le Roux, 1996

To the right of TSC. Follow the obvious line from the bottom and share last bolt and anchors with TSC. First bolt is rather high, but easy.

FA: Tania Louw, 2004

Just to the left of POC. A tricky start. Don't fumble the third bolt.

FA: Jens Kock, 2007

About 13m right from POC before you get to a huge overhang. Start on an arête. The fun starts after you’ve clipped the third draw.

FA: Lourens Inggs, 2005

The obvious line under the huge roof, halfway between PT and KA. Climb into the open book to clip the 3rd. Use a longer draw on the 2nd to reduce rope abrasion. You can tie off on the 3rd, wile the be-layer unclip the 1st to reduce drag. Chimney up the open book to the roof. Here the route splits in two. Use a fist jam above you and then move right onto the face, Monster Crunch [F.A. Jaco de Wet 2007 (10D)] or go left, Monster Munch [F.A. Ruan Pretorius 2007 (9D)] and follow an arête to anchors.

Start in a little corner where there is an overhang on your left with a knobbly face above it. Start on the right and climb unto the face on the left as soon as possible. Go to the arête ASAP with your feet on the little bulge as far down as you can. Climb the arête to the anchors. The further left you stay the more difficult it is – the further right, the easier.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2003

The same as KA and share the same bolts with it. Stay on the face, though, and use different anchors as well as the last 2 bolts.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 1996

From the boulder, 3m out from the start of HW and ID, jump to the first hold on the face above the huge roof. Be carefull when on top rope not to land yourself back onto the boulder if you miss the hold! Climb the face to a ledge and then across the horn to the anchors.

FA: Jaco de Wet & Ruan Pretorius, 2007

Start on some blocks in the puddle under a roof. (Keep your feet dry!!) Crank the roof through the obvious line with some good under clings to a chock stone. Climb the face only (20+) or the chimney (9) to anchors.

FA: Jens Kock, 2007

Start the same as HW. Do not climb onto the chock stone after the roof, but stay on the arête to the right all the way to top.

FA: Jaco de Wet, 2007

Starts about 3m to the right of HW and ID right underneath the power lines.

FA: Jens Kock


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