Route Grade Style Popularity
1
The Nameless Fear
The obvious line 5 – 6 m left of SP . Climb onto the face on the right after the third bolt and before you reach the small tree.
FA: The obvious line 5 – 6 m left of SP. Climb onto the face on the right after the third bolt and before you reach the small tree., 2007
17
Sport 7
2
Spread-eagle Pillar
Climb a small face (one bolt) to a platform on the right and then onto a little pillar to a small roof and straight across to anchors. Use the pillar only!! Exposed, run out and risky!! Not a nice route.
FA: Jaco de Wet, 2001
24
Sport 7
3
Do not chimney
Just to the right of SP . Do not climb into the crack and the idea is to not use chimney moves at all. If you do its probably a 12. Run out from last to anchors. When in doubt – chimney!
FA: Jaco de Wet & Ruan Pretorius, 2001
17
Sport 5
4
Baboon’s Neck
From the same ledge as DNC . Stay on the right of the arête and climb over the first bulge to a roof. Traverse right underneath the Baboon’s head and then up to anchors
FA: Jaco de Wet & Ruan Pretorius, 2004
23
Sport 6
5
Smaug
The steep arête 3m to the right of BN . Stay on the arête and to the left all the way to the top. Good holds all the way. Share anchors with BN .
FA: Jaco de Wet, 2007
16
Sport 8
6
Born Free
Starts in a recess. The face on the left. Can be wet and slippery in rainy season. Harder if you only use the face and not the layback or chimney.
FA: Jens Kock, 2006
12
Sport 7
7
Long Drop
Starts in the same recess as BF . The face on the right. Steeper than it looks but with good holds.
FA: Tania Louw, 2005
14
Sport 8
8
After the Piece of Cake
Climbs the arête to the right of LD .
FA: Tania Louw, 2005
15
Sport 8
9
Mello Yellow
The line just to the right of ATPOC . Duck under the branch at the top. Thanx for cleaning it up, Jens.
FA: Jens Kock, 2006
19
Sport 7
10
Quickbeam
In the middle of the face there is a fist size hole (good for a jam). Angles to the right – don’t go onto MY on the left.
FA: Jaco de Wet, 2006
18
Sport 7
11
Shelob’s Lair
The little chimney that climbs to a chock stone at the top.
FA: Jens Kock, 2007
9
Sport 5
12
The taming of Smeagol
Climbs the face just right of SL and angles right. Do not use the big blocks in the middle of the face – unless you don’t like your be-layer. The blocks can make it much easier and maybe dangerous.
FA: Jaco de Wet & Jens Kock, 2007
19
Sport 7
13
Harder for Hobbits
Starts on the arête and climbs right, into the roof. More than one way of cranking the roof. Shares last bolt and anchors with JG .
FA: Ruan Pretorius and Jaco de Wet, 2007
22
Sport 8
14
Jungle Gym
The last climb on Treebeard’s Towers. Climbs the easy lichen covered steps to the right of HFH . Steps left after the forth bolt and shares last and anchors with HFH
FA: Jens Kock, 2006
14
Sport 7
15
Bush Baby
Starts 2m left of Brandwag . The start is easy but climbs into a tricky roof and end. Harder for midgets.
FA: Jaco de Wet, 2005
20
Sport 7
16
Brandwag
4m left of DOTW . Climb straight up to a small roof. Do not go right – the crux is to go straight across with a layback on your left hand.
FA: Jaco de Wet, 1997
18
Sport 9
17
Dancing on the Wall
The first route you find as you come down into the gorge. The 1st small brownish face you find. After the 3rd bolt traverse in direction of B. The 4th is very loose. Into same roof and anchors as Brandwag . Keep B’s bolts to your left. Some rope-drag as you start to traverse.
FA: Jaco de Wet, 1999
17
Sport 9