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1 16 27m
2 18 18m
3 17 30m
4 18 18m
5 18 5m
6 18 30m
7 8 6m
8 16 27m
9 16 12m
10 13 36m
11 60m

description

The route starts roughly in the middle of the north-west face of Corridor Buttress next to a scruffy gully.

  1. Climb up clean rock to the right of the gully until it is possible to traverse into the gully itself. Continue up the gully into a cubbyhole stance under an overhang at the top.

  2. Traverse about 2m to the right of the gully, climb up for 6m on a face involving delicate movements, and then use a thin footrail to gain a corner on the left. Continue up and to the left into a recess, proceed past one ledge to another via a reddish-coloured face (this latter ledge is more convenient for belaying the next pitch).

  3. Climb diagonally across the face to the right to reach a block projecting from the face. Step down 1m, traverse 6m to the right and continue diagonally up to a tiny stance next to a large flake leaning against the face.

  4. Proceed diagonally up to the gap in the overhang; climb up through the gap before moving 2m across to the right into a chimney-like recess (the vital flake hold is sound). Continue up the recess to a cave-like stance under the overhangs.

  5. Traverse to the right using the top of an oblong block for handholds. Climb 3m to a comfortable stance above. Walk 6m to the right to the foot of a shallow, yellowish corner.

  6. This pitch is complicated. Climb the yellowish corner, and move to the left to a narrow footrail. Follow the footrail to the right until it ends, step down 1.5m, continue to the right and then proceed up a flake-like block. Climb to a red recess further to the right. Step down 1m, and then traverse to the right again, by using a deeply cut handrail, onto the corner. Climb up to the right of the corner to reach a comfortable stance.

  7. Traverse left to a stance at the foot of the recess.

  8. Climb the recess before moving out left. Continue diagonally to the left across the face to reach a large, bushy stance.

  9. Climb the chimney to the left of the stance.

  10. Traverse left along the ledge to the foot of a gully leading to the summit.

  11. 60m of scrambling, including some 'E' standard movements, takes one to the top of the buttress.

Route history

5 May 1962First ascent: H. Graafland & H. Snijders

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.98358, 18.37805

Grade citation

16,18,17,18,18,18,8,16,16,13 Assigned grade
17 Hugo

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Based on 0 ratings.

Difficulty - 18

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

18

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1

Comment keywords

great

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Wed 29 Mar
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