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Route as trad in Vertigo

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Vertigo
1 14 35m
2 14 45m
3 16 35m
4 16 25m
5 12 20m
6 12 30m
7 14 30m
8 12 20m
9 12 15m

This route has mixed quality rock. The first 4 pitches feature loose and friable rock and care must be taken. Pitches 5 to 9 are on excellent compact sandstone.

  1. Scramble up the slabby and vegetated wall, aiming for a rock ledge on the left. Upon reaching the ledge (cairn), step right onto the wall and continue up, trending slightly rightwards, and aiming for a ledge beneath some large roof features.

  2. Above is a large triangular roof, and above that an even larger more rectangular roof. Bypass the first triangular roof by ascending a chimney like crack (no pro) on the righthand side of the belay ledge. From the top of the chimney step left and across a gap, to follow a narrowing ledge that leads out to the extreme left of the large rectangular roof. Mantle to gain a vertical break. Follow this, trending slightly rightward to gain a large ledge.

  3. Towards the right hand side of the ledge is the only feasible looking line: steep and clean rock that leads up and right towards a small ledge beneath a roof. Pull through the roof on huge jugs, then climb diagonally left to stance behind a large block.

  4. From the stance, climb straight up to gain a ledge. Move right, and from the middle of the ledge pull through a small overlap to gain the dihedral above. Once established in the dihedral, rail left to an exposed corner. Pull up into a large crack containing a chockstone, which is followed to a ledge.

  5. Just so you know you're still on route: the defining feature of this belay ledge is an enormous block that looks poised to tumble into the void below. The other defining feature is the short layback crack at the back of the ledge. Follow this crack. At the top, step right and head up a few meters to gain a ledge. Following the ledge, do a rising traverse for a few meters and stance at an obvious break/crack.

  6. Ignoring the obvious break above, climb diagonally up and left to stance on a triangular platform.

  7. Above is a clean and juggy wall with an obvious square finger of rock jutting out. Aim for this feature, bypassing it on the right hand side. Step left and climb the steep and gnarled crack to gain a small rectangular platform (possible stance). Step right and climb up to a narrow ledge with a loose block on it. Follow the ledge to the right and around the corner, climb up and gain a large ledge.

  8. Walk left about 8m. Round a corner and climb an easy break up to another ledge. Walk a few steps right and climb the easiest part of the clean grey face. Stance at the next ledge.

  9. From the stance, move diagonally left, aiming for a large flake. Layback up the flake and top out.

Descent: head East and find the Apostles Spine footpath. Follow this South, towards Grootkop. Before reaching Grootkop, turn right (West) and follow a narrow but clear path that leads towards Oudekraal Ravine. Descend Oudekraal Ravine and back to the foot of Corridor Buttress to retrieve your bags.

FA: P. White, J. de V. Graaff & B. Quail, 1957

Trad 260m, 9

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