Wonderland Area Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Branden Donald Kaz Conor Brogan Jacques Booysen Brendan Heywood Dylan Robert Jonsson @willem Sean Michelle Hutchinson

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1. Wonderland Area 316 in Crag
- 1.1. Tranquilitas 58 in Cliff
  - 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 in Area
  - 1.1.2. THE CRECHE 8 in Area
  - 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 in Area
  - 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 in Area
  - 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 in Area
  - 1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 in Area
- 1.2. Baboon Buttress 49 in Cliff
- 1.3. The God No Wall 25 in Cliff
- 1.4. The Disciple Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. The Little Red Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall 97 in Cliff
- 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall 6 in Cliff
- 1.8. Reunion Wall 3 in Cliff
- 1.9. The Superbowl 36 in Cliff
- 1.10. The Left Wings 14 in Cliff
- 1.11. The Theatre 10 in Cliff
- 1.12. The Right Wings 5 in Cliff
- 1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area 3 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Wonderland Area 316 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 30.366644, -25.669420
Description:: Nice variety of climbs with easy access from parking lot and beautiful views. Climbs are easy to find and the area has a nice variety of routes. The area is nice a cool after 11.
Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven: Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.
Approach:: "Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards" - Climb ZA wiki

1.1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

3 GOOD AND EVIL AREA

Summary:: Sport,Trad and Top Rope
Long/Lat: 30.367201, -25.674793
Description:: Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.
Approach:: From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad
Description:: At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	When You Need It Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003	17	Trad
2	Als Bells The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003	19	Trad
3	Respect for the big Guy Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003	19	Trad
4	Soft Sabie Mark Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG. FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003	22	Trad
5	Quack-Quack Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM. FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003	17	Trad
6	Squeeze your Balls The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ. FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003	17	Trad
7	Omte Pee Om te Poep Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above. FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003	18	Trad
8	The Huffing Warthog The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	23	Trad

1.1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Milou Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007	9	Sport 8
2	Crouching Tiger Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	12	Sport 10
3	Mel Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	11	Sport 8
4	Me Tarzan, You Jane Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	16	Sport 9
5	Jackie Chan Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	14	Sport 9
6	Consistency is Fasion Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	17	Sport 10
7	Feel Good Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008	14	Sport 7
8	Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007	19	Sport 10

1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Long/Lat: 30.369028, -25.675028
Description:: The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	I.M.O. Julius Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney. FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	15	Trad
2	Ceaser Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system. FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	16	Trad
3	Woodchoppers and Waterbearers Climb up the right arete. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof. FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 10
4	Yellow Polka Dot A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow-dotted headwall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	25	Sport 11
5	Who's Line is it Anyway Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb. FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 2003	23	Sport 9
6	Good and Evil The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Voytek Modrzewski, 2003	23	Sport 9
7	Wasp Warriors Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003	27	Sport 8
8	Cool Runnings The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner. FA: Sarel Smit, 2003	24	Sport 10
9	Aapstreke The obvious chimney right of CR. FA: Abert Smit, Sarel Smit, Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies, 2003	15	Trad	Jacques Booysen 5 years ago Nice Chimney, Crux felt harder than a 15, couldn't finish.
10	Walking on Sunshine Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	20	Trad

1.1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Nitro's Tick Fever Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Neil Margetts, 2009	25	Sport 10
2	Lost in Translation Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar, 2004	23	Sport 14
3	Atlantis A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004	26	Sport 11
4	Eldorado One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004	28	Sport 11
5	Inca Trail A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	27	Sport 11
6	S.W.A.T. Team A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003	24	Sport 10
7	Fever Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009	29	Sport 10
8	Peaceful Sleep This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains. FA: Gary Lowther, 2003	21	Sport 11
9	The Beeman and the Bushman Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	25	Sport 11
10	Beat Them Dead Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	23	Sport 13
11	Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 11
12	Malaria 5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 12
13	There is Treasure Everywhere Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	20	Trad
14	Alex's Mousse au Chocolat Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	17	Sport 13	Donald 6 months ago Stunning exposure on this route.
15	Evelyn Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	18	Sport 12
16	Balance of Power Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	22	Sport 8
17	Roc Rally A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	21	Sport 9

1.1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	FUG New route well indicated on the rock. FA: G Frost and D Margetts,	22	Sport
2	Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury, 2007	22	Sport 10
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	Endless Blowjob The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: G Frost and D Margetts,	18	Sport 12
4	Little Bonsai Just left to the recess where Chimneying Tammy is. A wonderful route for its grade. FA: G Frost and D Margetts, 2003	16	Sport 20m , 12		Donald 6 months ago Magnificent climb at an easily accessible grade. Beautiful view from halfway up to the top.
5	Chimneying Tammy Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains. FA: Gary Lowther, 2003	15	Sport 7		Kaz 1 years ago A good first chimney. Jacques Booysen 5 years ago Awesome Chimney
6	Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 9
7	Diseased Mad Cow Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 11
8	Grunt The obvious roof crack with easier headwall. FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo, 2002	24	Trad
9	I Feel Rocks Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson, 2003	24	Sport 8
10	Up Your Tree Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003	20	Sport 9
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
11	Biogalactic Gobbleblaster Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	20	Sport 20m , 8
12	Caviars Whiskers Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right. FA: Fabrice Blaise, 2000	17	Sport 9

1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard bouldery climbs.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Pit Fighter Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	31	Sport 6
2	Stitch it Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008	29	Sport 6
3	Rubik's Cube Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008	28	Sport 6

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Pit Fighter

Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

Sport 6

Stitch it

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

Sport 6

Rubik's Cube

Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

Sport 6

1.2. Baboon Buttress 49 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Long/Lat: 30.364821, -25.673029
Approach:: APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Papsak Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner	22	Sport 6
2	Loopdop Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner.	17	Sport 7
3	After Thoughts Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley). FA: Darryl Margetts, 2009	16	Sport 5
4	Diablo Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, 2011	27	Sport 7
5	A.S Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. A grovel.	14	Sport 6
6	Raptophilia Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun. FA: Brian Weaver, 2011	32	Sport 8
7	Psyche Ward Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011	31	Sport 5
8	Blood Diamond The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts., 2012	28	Sport 5
9	Baboons in Boardshorts As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008	14	Sport 7
10	Trench Town Slab on arête in descent gulley. FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano, 2006		Sport 5
11	Adam Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature. FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt, 2007	22	Sport 6
12	Irritable Male Syndrome Climb the next slanting feature. FA: Mark Seuring, 2002	22	Sport 6
13	Almost Ushie Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22. FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007	23	Sport 6
14	One Love Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22. FA: Chris Vandereydt, 2006	23	Sport 5
15	Grizzly Behr Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006	16	Sport 9
16	Just Behrly Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.	30	Sport 8
17	Renewable Energy From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	18	Sport
18	Luckly Leila Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004	22	Sport
19	Whait Watcher Pitch One From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	17	Sport 5
20	Whait Watcher Pitch Two Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	21	Sport 8
21	Qina Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007	19	Sport
22	No More Dynamo Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	20	Sport 8
23	Slave Species Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008	25	Sport 6
24	Up in Smoke Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose. FA: Mike Mason, 2002	21	Sport 10
25	Pretenders Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007	24	Sport 8
26	Goose on a Loose Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring, 2006	26	Sport 9
27	Up Alard's Crack If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000	17	Sport 10
28	Kannie-Ballistic Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006	27	Sport 12
29	Ledgends Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006	25	Sport 6
30	Jamani FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg, 2006	19	Sport 6
31	Sweet Plum Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face. FA: Alard Hufner, 2007	25	Sport 14
32	Sour Grapes Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash, 2008	24	Sport 13
33	Thorns Between the Roses Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008	12	Sport 7
34	Twice in a Blue Moon Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: , 2009	18	Sport 7
35	Wild Fire Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash, 2008	25	Sport 10
36	Heroes Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006	26	Sport 9
37	Condor A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt. FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010	28	Sport 11
38	The Bovenator Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: , 2010	28	Sport 11
39	Dreamers Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007	23	Sport 11
40	Not-Da-Mamma Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: Ken Thrash, 2008	23	Sport 14
41	Hey Mamma Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008	16	Sport 6
42	African Rain Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall. FA: Ken Thrash, 2011	25	Sport 14
43	Ice Cream Sundae 65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches. FA: Ken Thrash, 2011	22	Sport 65m , 16
44	Sticky Toffe Pudding A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale. FA: Glenn Harrison, 2007	23	Sport 17
45	Sweet Child of Mine Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey! FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2010	27	Sport 14
46	The Overload (Open Project) Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts. BB A Pedley January 2011.		Sport
47	The Butterfly Pitch One Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner,	26	Sport
48	The Butterfly Pitch Two The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007		Sport
49	Big Butterfly Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007	28	Sport

1.3. The God No Wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 30.365182, -25.671748
Description:: The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres
Approach:: A. Access as for Baboon Buttress which rambles on for about 100 metres, keep walking along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning walls.

B. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. After a few minutes you will pass the Little Red Wall then the Disciple Wall.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Rodan The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011	33	Sport 13
2	Godzilla Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008	32	Sport 14
3	Moster The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2006	29	Sport 16
4	The Beast Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008	31	Sport 16
5	Mutation Project Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. Power Endurance on top od endurance = hard and brilliant! FA: Brian Weaver, 2012	33	Sport
6	Space Caddet A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	30	Sport
7	Heavens Above Project Open project, an extension of Freak Show, through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. Bolted by Andrew Pedley.		Sport
8	Freak Show Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008	28	Sport 12
9	The Juggernaut Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw). FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2009	30	Sport 12
10	Freak On Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008	24	Sport 12
11	Chocolate Éclair A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2007	27	Sport 4
12	Who Needs Lucky Cows / Death by Chocolate Climb Chocolate Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain. FA: Daniel Gebel, 2009	31	Sport 12
13	Above and Beyond Project Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above Lucky Cows, involves a Font 8A+ dyno..BB. Matt Bush October 2011.		Sport
14	Dungeons and Dragons 25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather. FA: Mike Cartwright, 2007	26	Sport 13
15	Tokolosie Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	30	Sport 14
16	The Blackcountry Butcher Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie, or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	32	Sport 13
17	Changing Gears This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago. FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006	25	Sport 12
18	Jack of All Trades The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed. FA: Tessa Little, 1998	29	Unknown 35m , 15
19	Jabberwocky The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed. FA: Richard Lord, 1993	33	Sport 14
20	Vorpal Sword The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008	31	Sport 16
21	Hell Yea A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the „3rd crux‟ to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope FA: Marc Efune, 2006	27	Sport 17
22	Rock-Chuka-Chick Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy. FA: Marianne Pretorius, 1999	24	Sport 17
23	Big Bad Wolf 10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999	24	Sport 40m , 16
24	Burning Spear Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down. FA: Marc Efune, 2009	28	Sport 17
25	Alice in Grannyland Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters. FA: Greg Watkins, 1998	24	Unknown 35m , 16

1.4. The Disciple Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Long/Lat: 30.365478, -25.671242
Description:: To the right of the God No! Wall.
Approach:: "Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards." - Climb ZA Wiki

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Bittergal Starts to the left of the tree. A tricky looking first few meters on is on dolerite (an igneous rock), changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt. FA: Greg Borman, 2009	22	Sport 28m , 14
2	The day of the Triffids / Brolloks Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed. FFA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998	19	Sport 25m , 14
3	Goodwill van die Zoeloes / Groenie Die Drakie Just right of Brolloks, great, bit cruxier than Brollocks. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the Brollocks start. FFA: Ian Manson & G Shepston, 1992 FA: BB Ken Thrash, 1999	21	Sport 28m , 13
4	Sarel Seemonster Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Again, climb 4 bolts then move left and up. FA: Ken Thrash June, 2009	18	Sport 28m , 12
5	Lucy The right most line. Clip first 3-4 bolts of Sarel Seemonster then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree. FA: Daryl Margetts, 2010 FA: E Margetts, 2010 FA: A Margetts, 2010	17	Sport 25m , 12

1.5. The Little Red Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Long/Lat: 30.365661, -25.670841
Description:: This wall is dark red in colour and can be seen through the trees about 50 m up and right of the Disciple Wall. Some pretty cool climbs here and it‟s only 2 minutes from the God No! Wall.

HEIGHT: 15 - 20 Metres
Approach:: A. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo, in which case the first wall you will reach is the Little Red Wall.

B. Continue up right another 30 metres from the Disciple Wall (approach as for God No! Wall)

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Grannie's Cottage / Digiridoo Project This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'. FA: Matthew Murison, 1998	25	Sport 8
2	Little Red Riding Hood A super little climb, a great first 24. FA: Tessa Little, 1998	25	Sport 9
3	The Loan Arranger Just right of LRRH. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade! FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, 1992	25	Trad
4	Him Speak With Forked Tongue Trad line just right of THE LOAN ARRANGER. FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998	23	Trad
5	Halongmaishlong This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of LRRH. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999	20	Sport 13

1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall 97 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 30.365779, -25.670137
Description:: Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs. Climbs are of relatively short stature but some are of excellent quality. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs; so before you bolt another line, consider if it is really necessary…

HEIGHT: 5 - 18 Metres
Approach:: A. From the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliff line….Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) sign. Here, leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs.

B. From the Tranquilitas camping, take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right, towards the cliff line. Take this path and follow it this as described above.

C. To get to the right-hand end of the crag approach as above, pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres. The path curves leftward and at a cairn, a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path, which doubles back towards the south, past a wooden barrier and to a small gulley at the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	I R Baboon The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South. FA: D Margetts, A Margetts, E Margetts & T Margetts, 2002	12	Sport 5		Michelle Hutchinson 8 years ago Nice, short climb
2	Smoking Dread Locks The crack line. FA: D Margetts & G Frost, 2003	21	Sport 5		Sean 9 years ago easy for grade
3	Comfort Zone Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left. FA: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts & A. Grant, 2001	20	Sport 6
4	The Flying Scotsman The desperate looking blank face. FA: James Roberts, 2002	26	Sport 5
5	Hey Pappa The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing. FA: Albert Smit, 2000	24	Sport 5
6	Hamster Hotel Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003	15	Sport 6		Conor Brogan 5 years ago Not nice Michelle Hutchinson 8 years ago Tricky climb!
7	Two Cam Sam Start in the corner up to a loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2007	23	Trad
8	Rat Pallace A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above. FA: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle, 2001	20	Sport 9		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
9	Last Hurrah Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of RP. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003	16	Sport 7
10	Roundabout Now 5m left of Bamboozled. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	19	Trad
11	Man Slaves Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti,	15	Sport 9
12	Bamboozled 10m left of DL. A fine route with an arete high up. Low in the grade. FA: Mark Seuring, 2002	27	Sport 9
13	La Croisiere S'amuse Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003	24	Sport 10
14	Lab Rat Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2006	33	Sport 10
15	Dexter's Lab Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang. FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998	23	Sport 12
16	Cloud City Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains. FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts, 2010	21	Sport 10
17	Smokey the Bear Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003	15	Sport 9		Sean 9 years ago good easy climbing
18	Bongoleo about 5m left of WICKED. FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson, 2000	21	Sport 8
19	Ceasarian Start on BONGOLEO, break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED. FA: ustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001	23	Sport 11
20	Wicked Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999	26	Sport 10
21	Drop Kicked 2 Metres right of "Wicked". Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent! FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000	26	Sport 9
22	Five Lives Left 2m right of DK. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000	19	Sport 8		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
23	Dutch Popcorn Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route. FA: Alard Hufner, 1999	26	Sport 12
24	I Just Cant Bolt It The obvious crack line just right of DP. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000	20	Trad
25	Searching Climb the recess, break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	22	Trad
26	Lion Hunt Funky face climbing, then through an overlap. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002	22	Sport 10
27	Shroom Hunter Left of the open book, railing out right on top. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002	21	Sport 10
28	Hemp on the HIll Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner, 2004	17	Sport 11
29	Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree. FA: Dermot Brogan, 2000	23	Sport 8
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
30	Snakeskin Safari Suit Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the M & M face. FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & D. Chesney, 2000	18	Sport 10		Donald 6 months ago Such a great climb. Pity it was wet on the day Branden 6 months ago Really nice climb, good positive holds all the way...
31	M&M The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left. FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring, 1999	30	Sport 7
32	The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001	18	Sport 8
33	Are You Chicken Enough Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, 2012	25	Trad
34	Moondance Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing. FA: Claire Keaton, 1999	20	Sport 12
35	Loch Ness Start about 1.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face FA: Ken Thrash, 2010	25	Sport 7
36	Morse Code Begins with a boulder problem following the crack 6 m right of Moon Dance. FA: Brian Weaver, 2009	27	Trad
37	Ants in Your Pants Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun. FA: Mark Seuring, 1999	28	Sport 8
38	Once in a Blue Moon Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it! FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	19	Sport 11		Ryno v d Riet 9 years ago terrible chimney. first time i've seen a full body jam!
39	Blood on the Rocks Goes up and to the left of the arete. FA: Dylan Morgan, 1999	23	Sport 10
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
40	Doom Starts in the middle of the face about 2 metres left of CC. Trend leftwards to the arete and then follow break rightwards to the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	19	Sport 10		Donald 6 months ago Sketchy start but hugely satisfying. Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
41	Neither Here Nor There Start as for Doom, but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with DOOM. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	19	Sport 10
42	Cenotaph Corner Starts in the obvious corner. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999	16	Sport 9		Donald 6 months ago Very fun corner climb.
43	Old Crusty's Last Stand Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999	18	Sport 10		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
44	Be Quick Or Be Dead Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	24	Sport 10
45	High Speed Dirt Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	20	Sport 11		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
46	Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23 FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	24	Sport 9
47	Chics for Free Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998	15	Sport 9		Conor Brogan 5 years ago Very Awkward
48	Fat Annie The bouldery face right of CFF. FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002	25	Sport 6
49	Slim JIm Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter, 2003	19	Sport 7
50	The One That Got Away The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson, 2004	23	Sport 8
51	Teacher's Pet Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle. FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1999	15	Sport 8
52	Banging Bridget Jones Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 2003	18	Sport 9
53	Spicy Haberero Salsa Start on the right of Banging Bridget on the flat holds. Traverse L into the seam and up, moving left into a crack then rightwards and over a rood and crack to finish. FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, 2011	24	Sport 5
54	Zellweger Variation Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998	17	Sport 9		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
55	Zellweger Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998	16	Sport 9		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
56	The Pallbearer Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle. FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998	17	Sport 6
57	Fisticuffs Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	13	Sport 5		Hendrik Neethling 6 years ago Great view from up here, but the climb isn't much. Michelle Hutchinson 8 years ago Terrible route, don't waste your time
58	It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	15	Sport 6		Jacques Booysen 6 years ago Nice view from top... Werner Gillmer 7 years ago Great warm up climb with a lovely view from the top if you top out.
59	Angel of Mercy A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998	16	Sport 8		Hendrik Neethling 6 years ago Great climb! Jacques Booysen 6 years ago You can feel the air blowing through the cracks. Very nice!
60	Saint Gabriel Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts,	21	Sport 6
61	The Winnebago Smile Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad retrobolted FA: J Sydow, Phil Lloyd, Ian Manson, 1992	19	Sport 12
62	Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.” FA: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson, 1992	21	Sport 10
63	Witless Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven. FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop, 1992	25	Trad
64	Task Saturated Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	25	Sport 8
65	Santa's Little Helper Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING. FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999	20	Sport 10		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed itn
66	Reminiscing This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH. FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo, 2000	17	Sport 11
67	Please Don't Touch This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	23	Sport 9
68	Champange on Ice Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Janse van Rensburg, 2005	25	Sport 9
69	Dead Ant This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	22	Sport 10
70	Variation to Wood Pile Crack This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains. FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	18	Sport 9
71	Wood Pile Crack The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK. FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	18	Sport 9		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
72	The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2005	22	Sport
73	Mountain Pursuit Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008	12	Sport 7
74	Gravy Train Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering. FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000	15	Unknown 8
75	Dead Gecko Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano, 2005	19	Sport 7
76	B & B Climb the chimney crack on good pro. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2001	17	Trad
77	Captain Hook Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 2000	18	Sport 12
78	The Claregate Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book. FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000	17	Sport 12
79	Aussie Rules / Ozzy Rules Just right of CLAREGATE. FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999	17	Sport 10		Riaan van Jaarsveld 6 years ago Definitely the finest climb I did to Boven on this trip! INSANE!!!
80	Unfinished Business Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash,		Sport 7
81	Face in the Trough A face climb staying right of the bolts. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000	23	Sport 9
82	Forest Glump Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT. FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000	14	Sport 10
83	Lining Your Pockets Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt. FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2000	17	Sport 9		Riaan van Jaarsveld 6 years ago Awesome climb! Really really fun!
84	Mission from Glod Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999	16	Sport 11		Riaan van Jaarsveld 6 years ago First 16 done at Boven, wow, they werent kidding when they said strubens grades were easy! This c...
85	Sand Glod This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains. FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999	16	Sport 12
86	Panty-Slapped The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade. FA: Mark Seuring, 2002	28	Sport 8
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
87	Emancipated Spider Chicks Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM. FA: G. Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000	20	Sport 9
88	Butterfly Snowstorm Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S. FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot, 2000	15	Sport 7		Jacques Booysen 5 years ago Awesome, once you figure out the move to go up with the crack you fly up there like a butterfly!
89	Clockwork Orange Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2008	16	Sport 9
90	Clockwork Orange Variation Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt. FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2009		Sport 8
91	Rocky's This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999	15	Sport 10		Jacques Booysen 5 years ago nice Robyn John 5 years ago more like a 14 or 15
92	Iron Lotus Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier). FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts, 2010	21	Sport 8
93	The Ladder Right of the aboveS FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000	14	Sport
94	Fadja's Revenge 5 meters to the right of the Ladder FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008	9	Sport 5
95	You Mean That's It	21	Unknown
96	Dream Come True	19	Sport		Greeg Rose 9 years ago No idea when I climbed it
97	Mike Behr's Route	22	Unknown

1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Long/Lat: 30.365994, -25.668741
Description:: This recently developed crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the right end of Hallucinogen wall.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Zooter Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains FA: D Margetts, 2008	17	Sport 9
2	Golden Pie Climb layback crack FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008	17	Sport 7
3	Brunch The best route at the crag, climbs a blunt arête feature. Step left at the top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2010	19	Sport 8
4	Chicken Wing Climb short face and arete FA: D Margetts K Thrash, 2008	15	Sport 8
5	Spare Rib Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing FA: D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts,	12	Sport 7
6	Crack Up Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib FA: D Margetts and A Margetts,	15	Sport 5

1.8. Reunion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: On the way to the Superbowl a smooth vertical face is found on the left behind some rocks and a cactus tree. The wall faces north-northeast so remains sunny until early afternoon.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	I Dexe The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel, 2005	24	Sport 10
2	Cactus Palace The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2004	23	Sport 10
3	For Your Colorfication he hard-looking face climb to the right of CACTUS PALACE. FA: Jens Richter, 2005	28	Sport 8

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

I Dexe

The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

Sport 10

Cactus Palace

The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2004

Sport 10

For Your Colorfication

he hard-looking face climb to the right of CACTUS PALACE.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

Sport 8

1.9. The Superbowl 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 30.364117, -25.666317
Description:: One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.
Approach:: A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Kimchi Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+. FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007	27	Sport 11
2	Doug in the Yellow House Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway! FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005	26	Sport 13
3	Coach Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011	25	Sport 12
4	Frazzle The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..? FA: Paul Brouard, 2000	33	Sport 15
5	Snapdragon SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done. FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992	29	Sport 30m , 13
6	Hack and Slay Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short. FA: Richard Lord, 1994	31	Sport 30m , 16
7	Project Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers	22	Unknown
8	Giants Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit... FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993	27	Sport 12
9	Karfoefeling Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004	26	Sport 13
10	Loslappie Link-Up The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag! FA: Wesley Black, 2010	28	Sport 15
11	Welcome to Ovamboland Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010	32	Sport 15
12	Rude Bushmen This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998	24	Sport 15	Doug 9 years ago watch for the bat
13	Normal Hard Daddy Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen. FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007	25	Sport 10
14	Lotter's Desire The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+. FA: Richard Lord, 1993	27	Sport 11
15	Hypertension A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a.. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005	30	Sport 13
16	Tugela Blue This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998	27	Sport 12
17	Out of a Limb Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar, 2006	26	Sport 10
18	Soul Mandate Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above FA: Mark Millar, 2004	25	Sport 11
19	Miss Mckinley 30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree. FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998	23	Sport 9	Doug 9 years ago clip 2nd bolt?
20	The Doomsday Device Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012	26	Sport 13
21	Strata Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic. FA: Paul Brouard, 2001	32	Sport 14
22	Tripolactic Fairytales Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27.... FA: Will Watkins, 1998	27	Sport 10	will watkins 15 years ago old project with 2 bolts in. fully bolted thanks to Matt Muirison and climbed whilst on holiday.
23	Beehive Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees. FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996	12	Sport 15
24	Tree House Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees. FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996	20	Sport 14
25	Paradise By the C / Paradise By the Sea Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff. FA: Mark Seuring, 1999	27	Sport 10
26	Hallucigenic Toreador Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff. FA: C Nicole, 1997	27	Sport 13
27	Brain Damaged Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006	22	Sport 12
28	Sleepless Tad About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992	22	Sport 5
29	Club Tropicana Coconuts Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen. FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999	24	Sport 9
30	Le Sketch The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down! FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003	23	Sport 11
31	Glen Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch. FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998	21	Sport 15
32	Into the Black Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998	21	Sport 15
33	Precision Feather A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above. FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998	21	Sport 12
34	Almost My Balls The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback! FA: Barry Crouse,	20	Sport 14
35	Penny Royal Tee A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996	17	Sport 14
36	Teen Spirit The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains. FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999	20	Sport 14

1.10. The Left Wings 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Sport
Long/Lat: 30.363856, -25.664677
Description:: For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.
Approach:: A. From the Superbowl, walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gulley that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of the Superbowl, down the gulley, then keep left and after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Why Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree. FA: Clive Curson, 1993	20	Trad
2	Herman the German Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall. FA: Adam, 1994	26	Sport 10
3	Herman's Route Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors. FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992	24	Sport 5
4	True Blue Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description. FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992	16	Trad
5	Wysiwyg Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same. FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992	12	Trad
6	Chunky Monkey The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy! FA: FA: Mark Seuring, 1998	27	Sport 9
7	Hounds Mousse Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey. FA: Axel Wachter, 2000	25	Sport 11
8	New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning. FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000	18	Sport 10
9	Home Alone Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted. FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992	19	Trad
10	Puppet on a String About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991	19	Trad
11	Through the Looking Glass The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG‟s description. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991	19	Trad
12	Balrog The line left of Transmogrifier FA: Tessa Little, 2001	25	Sport 9
13	Transmogrifier Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb FA: Mark Seuring, 2001	26	Sport 9
14	Uiters Tors Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear. FA: tewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992	21	Trad

1.11. The Theatre 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Sport
Long/Lat: 30.363827, -25.663584
Description:: A few incredible lines including some classic trad on the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! Be brave and leave the „social‟ crags of God No and Superbowl for a day and ckeck out these brilliant lines.
Approach:: As for the Left Wing, continue another 50 metres or so until a huge slightly detached 4 metre high block is reached. The big orange left-facing wall of Heart of China is an obvious landmark.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Endless October Starts at the left end of the ledge/block. Brilliant. FA: Grant Murray, 1992	24	Sport 9
2	Sweet Cousin Cocaine From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section then a finish on huge jugs. Superb. FA: Gary Lotter, 1991	25	Sport 10
3	Night of the Toast The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre, just right of Sweet Cousin Cocaine. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991	23	Trad
4	Bikini Red Stunning! Better than Lotters? In the middle of the face. Name written at base. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy. Don‟t stray left at the top, just trust those feet and go! FA: Mike Hislop, 1992	27	Sport 9
5	Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected. FA: Mike Hislop, 1992	16	Trad
6	Stage Fright Climbs the arete to the choss above FA: Clive Curson, 1992	20	Trad
7	Centre Stage This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. Fight your way through the choss at the top and avoid killing people below. FA: Clive Curson, 1992	18	Trad
8	Into the Night We Slide Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre, a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991	23	Trad
9	Heart of China CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at The Restaurant. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991		Trad
10	Kindered Spirits At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left). Opened at 25! FA: Grant Murray, 1992	26	Sport 9

1.12. The Right Wings 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Sport and ?
Long/Lat: 30.363970, -25.662585
Description:: Has anybody been back since 1992?! If you are looking for some hidden gems go there! The path was recently cleared out by Pedley and Weaver.
Approach:: Walk on and around the corner from the Theatre.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Star Gazers Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left. Apparently hard to find placements for the belay at the top. FA: Russ Dodding, M Erens & G Erens, 1992	17	Trad
2	Waiting for Gossip Climbs the corner to the left of Damn the Torpedoes. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Chris Lomax & Richard Lord, 1992	23	Trad
3	Damn the Torpedoes Climb the „‟Indian Creek‟‟ type corner 20m left of Joy Division, left of a very steep leaning wall (Tectonic Wall).. The bolt can be seen from the ground. Great climbing with a single stopper crux. FA: Mike Hislop, 1992	27	Trad
4	Paul's Project Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of Joy Division. Ask Paul Bouard if you can open it.	31	Unknown
5	Joy Division The rough textured blank wall. Climb slightly rightwards with difficulty up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top. Originally graded 29. Totally impossible if you are short..go on, prove me wrong! FA: Richard Lord, 1992	30	Sport 12

1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: This crag is around the corner from The Right Wing, past JOY DIVISION. If you do these climbs you deserve big respect for being keen and making the effort! Go do them!

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Collapse of Reason The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005	23	Sport 10
2	Rise of Faith The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005	22	Sport 10
3	Unexplored Galaxy Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 2007	21	Sport

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Collapse of Reason

The left route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

Sport 10

Rise of Faith

The right route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

Sport 10

Unexplored Galaxy

Around the corner of Rise of Faith.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 2007

Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
9	Milou	Sport 8	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Fadja's Revenge	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
11	Mel	Sport 8	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
12	Crouching Tiger	Sport 10	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Thorns Between the Roses	Sport 7	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	I R Baboon	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Mountain Pursuit	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Spare Rib	Sport 7	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
	Beehive	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
	Wysiwyg	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
13	Fisticuffs	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
14	Feel Good	Sport 7	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Jackie Chan	Sport 9	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	A.S	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Baboons in Boardshorts	Sport 7	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Forest Glump	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Ladder	Sport	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
15	Aapstreke	Trad	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	I.M.O. Julius	Trad	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Chimneying Tammy	Sport 7	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Butterfly Snowstorm	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Chics for Free	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Gravy Train	Unknown 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Hamster Hotel	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Man Slaves	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Rocky's	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Smokey the Bear	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Teacher's Pet	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Chicken Wing	Sport 8	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
	Crack Up	Sport 5	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
16	Me Tarzan, You Jane	Sport 9	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Little Bonsai	Sport 20m , 12	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	After Thoughts	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Grizzly Behr	Sport 9	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Angel of Mercy	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Cenotaph Corner	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Clockwork Orange	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Mission from Glod	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Sand Glod	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Zellweger	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	True Blue	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
	Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator	Trad	1.11. The Theatre
	Ceaser	Trad	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Hey Mamma	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Last Hurrah	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
17	Quack-Quack	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Squeeze your Balls	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	When You Need It	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Consistency is Fasion	Sport 10	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Alex's Mousse au Chocolat	Sport 13	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Caviars Whiskers	Sport 9	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Loopdop	Sport 7	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Up Alard's Crack	Sport 10	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Whait Watcher Pitch One	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Lucy	Sport 25m , 12	1.4. The Disciple Wall
	Aussie Rules	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	B & B	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Hemp on the HIll	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Lining Your Pockets	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Reminiscing	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Claregate	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Pallbearer	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Zellweger Variation	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Golden Pie	Sport 7	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
	Zooter	Sport 9	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
	Penny Royal Tee	Sport 14	1.9. The Superbowl
	Star Gazers	Trad	1.12. The Right Wings
18	Omte Pee Om te Poep	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Evelyn	Sport 12	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Endless Blowjob	Sport 12	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Twice in a Blue Moon	Sport 7	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Sarel Seemonster	Sport 28m , 12	1.4. The Disciple Wall
	Banging Bridget Jones	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Captain Hook	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Old Crusty's Last Stand	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Snakeskin Safari Suit	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Variation to Wood Pile Crack	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Wood Pile Crack	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch	Sport 10	1.10. The Left Wings
	Centre Stage	Trad	1.11. The Theatre
	Renewable Energy	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
19	Als Bells	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Respect for the big Guy	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky	Sport 10	1.1.2. THE CRECHE
	Jamani	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Qina	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The day of the Triffids	Sport 25m , 14	1.4. The Disciple Wall
	Doom	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Dream Come True	Sport	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Five Lives Left	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Neither Here Nor There	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Once in a Blue Moon	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Slim JIm	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Winnebago Smile	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Brunch	Sport 8	1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
	Home Alone	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
	Puppet on a String	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
	Through the Looking Glass	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
20	Walking on Sunshine	Trad	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	There is Treasure Everywhere	Trad	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Biogalactic Gobbleblaster	Sport 20m , 8	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Up Your Tree	Sport 9	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	No More Dynamo	Sport 8	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Halongmaishlong	Sport 13	1.5. The Little Red Wall
	Comfort Zone	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Emancipated Spider Chicks	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	High Speed Dirt	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	I Just Cant Bolt It	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Moondance	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Rat Pallace	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Santa's Little Helper	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Almost My Balls	Sport 14	1.9. The Superbowl
	Teen Spirit	Sport 14	1.9. The Superbowl
	Tree House	Sport 14	1.9. The Superbowl
	Why	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
	Stage Fright	Trad	1.11. The Theatre
19	Dead Gecko	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Roundabout Now	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
21	Peaceful Sleep	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Roc Rally	Sport 9	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Up in Smoke	Sport 10	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Whait Watcher Pitch Two	Sport 8	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Goodwill van die Zoeloes	Sport 28m , 13	1.4. The Disciple Wall
	Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Bongoleo	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Cloud City	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Iron Lotus	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Saint Gabriel	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Shroom Hunter	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Smoking Dread Locks	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	You Mean That's It	Unknown	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Glen	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
	Into the Black	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
	Precision Feather	Sport 12	1.9. The Superbowl
	Uiters Tors	Trad	1.10. The Left Wings
	Unexplored Galaxy	Sport	1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
22	Soft Sabie Mark	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Woodchoppers and Waterbearers	Sport 10	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Balance of Power	Sport 8	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Malaria	Sport 12	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer	Sport 10	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Diseased Mad Cow	Sport 11	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	FUG	Sport	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro	Sport 9	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Adam	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Irritable Male Syndrome	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Luckly Leila	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Bittergal	Sport 28m , 14	1.4. The Disciple Wall
	Dead Ant	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Lion Hunt	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Mike Behr's Route	Unknown	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Searching	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish	Sport	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Brain Damaged	Sport 12	1.9. The Superbowl
	Project	Unknown	1.9. The Superbowl
	Sleepless Tad	Sport 5	1.9. The Superbowl
	Rise of Faith	Sport 10	1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
23	Good and Evil	Sport 9	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Who's Line is it Anyway	Sport 9	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Beat Them Dead	Sport 13	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Lost in Translation	Sport 14	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Almost Ushie	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Not-Da-Mamma	Sport 14	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	One Love	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Sticky Toffe Pudding	Sport 17	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Him Speak With Forked Tongue	Trad	1.5. The Little Red Wall
	Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Blood on the Rocks	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Ceasarian	Sport 11	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Dexter's Lab	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Face in the Trough	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Please Don't Touch	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The One That Got Away	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Two Cam Sam	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Cactus Palace	Sport 10	1.8. Reunion Wall
	Le Sketch	Sport 11	1.9. The Superbowl
	Miss Mckinley	Sport 9	1.9. The Superbowl
	Into the Night We Slide	Trad	1.11. The Theatre
	Night of the Toast	Trad	1.11. The Theatre
	Waiting for Gossip	Trad	1.12. The Right Wings
	Collapse of Reason	Sport 10	1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
22	Ice Cream Sundae	Sport 65m , 16	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Papsak	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
24	Cool Runnings	Sport 10	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	S.W.A.T. Team	Sport 10	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Grunt	Trad	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	I Feel Rocks	Sport 8	1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Pretenders	Sport 8	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Sour Grapes	Sport 13	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Alice in Grannyland	Unknown 35m , 16	1.3. The God No Wall
	Big Bad Wolf	Sport 40m , 16	1.3. The God No Wall
	Freak On	Sport 12	1.3. The God No Wall
	Rock-Chuka-Chick	Sport 17	1.3. The God No Wall
	Be Quick Or Be Dead	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Hey Pappa	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	La Croisiere S'amuse	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Spicy Haberero Salsa	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	I Dexe	Sport 10	1.8. Reunion Wall
	Club Tropicana Coconuts	Sport 9	1.9. The Superbowl
	Rude Bushmen	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
	Herman's Route	Sport 5	1.10. The Left Wings
	Endless October	Sport 9	1.11. The Theatre
23	The Huffing Warthog	Trad	1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Dreamers	Sport 11	1.2. Baboon Buttress
25	Yellow Polka Dot	Sport 11	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Nitro's Tick Fever	Sport 10	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	The Beeman and the Bushman	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Ledgends	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Sweet Plum	Sport 14	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Changing Gears	Sport 12	1.3. The God No Wall
	Grannie's Cottage	Sport 8	1.5. The Little Red Wall
	Little Red Riding Hood	Sport 9	1.5. The Little Red Wall
	The Loan Arranger	Trad	1.5. The Little Red Wall
	Are You Chicken Enough	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Champange on Ice	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Fat Annie	Sport 6	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Loch Ness	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Task Saturated	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Witless	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Normal Hard Daddy	Sport 10	1.9. The Superbowl
	Soul Mandate	Sport 11	1.9. The Superbowl
	Balrog	Sport 9	1.10. The Left Wings
	Hounds Mousse	Sport 11	1.10. The Left Wings
	Sweet Cousin Cocaine	Sport 10	1.11. The Theatre
26	Atlantis	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Goose on a Loose	Sport 9	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Heroes	Sport 9	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The Butterfly Pitch One	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Dungeons and Dragons	Sport 13	1.3. The God No Wall
	Drop Kicked	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Dutch Popcorn	Sport 12	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	The Flying Scotsman	Sport 5	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Wicked	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Doug in the Yellow House	Sport 13	1.9. The Superbowl
	Karfoefeling	Sport 13	1.9. The Superbowl
	Out of a Limb	Sport 10	1.9. The Superbowl
	The Doomsday Device	Sport 13	1.9. The Superbowl
	Herman the German	Sport 10	1.10. The Left Wings
	Transmogrifier	Sport 9	1.10. The Left Wings
	Kindered Spirits	Sport 9	1.11. The Theatre
25	African Rain	Sport 14	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Slave Species	Sport 6	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Wild Fire	Sport 10	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Coach	Sport 12	1.9. The Superbowl
27	Wasp Warriors	Sport 8	1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Inca Trail	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Kannie-Ballistic	Sport 12	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Sweet Child of Mine	Sport 14	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Chocolate Éclair	Sport 4	1.3. The God No Wall
	Hell Yea	Sport 17	1.3. The God No Wall
	Bamboozled	Sport 9	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Morse Code	Trad	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Giants	Sport 12	1.9. The Superbowl
	Hallucigenic Toreador	Sport 13	1.9. The Superbowl
	Kimchi	Sport 11	1.9. The Superbowl
	Lotter's Desire	Sport 11	1.9. The Superbowl
	Paradise By the C	Sport 10	1.9. The Superbowl
	Tripolactic Fairytales	Sport 10	1.9. The Superbowl
	Tugela Blue	Sport 12	1.9. The Superbowl
	Chunky Monkey	Sport 9	1.10. The Left Wings
	Bikini Red	Sport 9	1.11. The Theatre
	Damn the Torpedoes	Trad	1.12. The Right Wings
28	Eldorado	Sport 11	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Rubik's Cube	Sport 6	1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
	Big Butterfly	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Blood Diamond	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Condor	Sport 11	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The Bovenator	Sport 11	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Burning Spear	Sport 17	1.3. The God No Wall
	Freak Show	Sport 12	1.3. The God No Wall
	Ants in Your Pants	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Panty-Slapped	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Loslappie Link-Up	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
27	Diablo	Sport 7	1.2. Baboon Buttress
29	Fever	Sport 10	1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Stitch it	Sport 6	1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
	Jack of All Trades	Unknown 35m , 15	1.3. The God No Wall
	Snapdragon	Sport 30m , 13	1.9. The Superbowl
28	For Your Colorfication	Sport 8	1.8. Reunion Wall
30	Just Behrly	Sport 8	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Space Caddet	Sport	1.3. The God No Wall
	The Juggernaut	Sport 12	1.3. The God No Wall
	Tokolosie	Sport 14	1.3. The God No Wall
	M&M	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Hypertension	Sport 13	1.9. The Superbowl
	Joy Division	Sport 12	1.12. The Right Wings
29	Moster	Sport 16	1.3. The God No Wall
31	Pit Fighter	Sport 6	1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
	Psyche Ward	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The Beast	Sport 16	1.3. The God No Wall
	Vorpal Sword	Sport 16	1.3. The God No Wall
	Who Needs Lucky Cows	Sport 12	1.3. The God No Wall
	Hack and Slay	Sport 30m , 16	1.9. The Superbowl
	Paul's Project	Unknown	1.12. The Right Wings
32	Raptophilia	Sport 8	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The Blackcountry Butcher	Sport 13	1.3. The God No Wall
	Strata	Sport 14	1.9. The Superbowl
	Welcome to Ovamboland	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
33	Jabberwocky	Sport 14	1.3. The God No Wall
	Mutation Project	Sport	1.3. The God No Wall
	Lab Rat	Sport 10	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Frazzle	Sport 15	1.9. The Superbowl
32	Godzilla	Sport 14	1.3. The God No Wall
33	Rodan	Sport 13	1.3. The God No Wall
?	The Butterfly Pitch Two	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	The Overload (Open Project)	Sport	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Trench Town	Sport 5	1.2. Baboon Buttress
	Above and Beyond Project	Sport	1.3. The God No Wall
	Heavens Above Project	Sport	1.3. The God No Wall
	Clockwork Orange Variation	Sport 8	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
?	Unfinished Business	Sport 7	1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
	Heart of China	Trad	1.11. The Theatre

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Crag Guide for Wonderland Area

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Wonderland Area 316 routes in Crag

1.1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

1.1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

1.1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

1.1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

1.2. Baboon Buttress 49 routes in Cliff

1.3. The God No Wall 25 routes in Cliff

1.4. The Disciple Wall 5 routes in Cliff

1.5. The Little Red Wall 5 routes in Cliff

1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall 97 routes in Cliff

1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall 6 routes in Cliff

1.8. Reunion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

1.9. The Superbowl 36 routes in Cliff

1.10. The Left Wings 14 routes in Cliff

1.11. The Theatre 10 routes in Cliff

1.12. The Right Wings 5 routes in Cliff

1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area 3 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade