A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Wonderland Area 316 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.366644, -25.669420

Description:

Nice variety of climbs with easy access from parking lot and beautiful views. Climbs are easy to find and the area has a nice variety of routes. The area is nice a cool after 11.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

"Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards" - Climb ZA wiki

1.1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.367058, -25.674786

Description:

Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.

Approach:

From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * When You Need It

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003

17Trad
2 *** Als Bells

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

19Trad
3 ** Respect for the big Guy

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003

19Trad
4 ** Soft Sabie Mark

Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

22Trad
5 * Quack-Quack

Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM.

FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

17Trad
6 * Squeeze your Balls

The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003

17Trad
7 * Omte Pee Om te Poep

Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

18Trad
8 ** The Huffing Warthog

The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

23Trad

1.1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Milou

Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

9Sport 8
2 ** Crouching Tiger

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

12Sport 10
3 *** Mel

Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

11Sport 8
4 *** Me Tarzan, You Jane

Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up.

FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

16Sport 9
5 ** Jackie Chan

Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

14Sport 9
6 *** Consistency is Fasion

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

17Sport 10
7 ** Feel Good

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

14Sport 7
8 *** Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007

19Sport 10

1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.369028, -25.675028

Description:

The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I.M.O. Julius

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

15Trad
2 ** Ceaser

Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

16Trad
3 ** Woodchoppers and Waterbearers

Climb up the right arete. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 10
4 *** Yellow Polka Dot

A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow-dotted headwall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

25Sport 11
5 *** Who's Line is it Anyway

Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

23Sport 9
6 ** Good and Evil

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

23Sport 9
7 ** Wasp Warriors

Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

27Sport 8
8 ** Cool Runnings

The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner.

FA: Sarel Smit, 2003

24Sport 10
9 * Aapstreke

The obvious chimney right of CR.

FA: Abert Smit, Sarel Smit, Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies, 2003

15Trad
10 ** Walking on Sunshine

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

20Trad

1.1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nitro's Tick Fever

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2009

25Sport 10
2 * Lost in Translation

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

23Sport 14
3 ** Atlantis

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

26Sport 11
4 *** Eldorado

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

28Sport 11
5 ** Inca Trail

A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

27Sport 11
6 ** S.W.A.T. Team

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003

24Sport 10
7 * Fever

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009

29Sport 10
8 ** Peaceful Sleep

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

21Sport 11
9 ** The Beeman and the Bushman

Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

25Sport 11
10 ** Beat Them Dead

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

23Sport 13
11 ** Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg

Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 11
12 ** Malaria

5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 12
13 *** There is Treasure Everywhere

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

20Trad
14 *** Alex's Mousse au Chocolat

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

17Sport 13
15 ** Evelyn

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

18Sport 12
16 ** Balance of Power

Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

22Sport 8
17 ** Roc Rally

A short route 20m left of FUG.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

21Sport 9

1.1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** FUG

New route well indicated on the rock.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

22Sport
2 ** Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer

One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough!

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury, 2007

22Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Endless Blowjob

The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

18Sport 12
4 ** Little Bonsai

Just left to the recess where Chimneying Tammy is. A wonderful route for its grade.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts, 2003

16Sport 20m, 12
5 * Chimneying Tammy

Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

15Sport 7
6 ** Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro

Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 9
7 ** Diseased Mad Cow

Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 11
8 * Grunt

The obvious roof crack with easier headwall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo, 2002

24Trad
9 * I Feel Rocks

Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2003

24Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Up Your Tree

Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

20Sport 9
11 ** Biogalactic Gobbleblaster

Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

20Sport 20m, 8
12 ** Caviars Whiskers

Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right.

FA: Fabrice Blaise, 2000

17Sport 9

1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365803, -25.674474

Description:

The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard bouldery climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Pit Fighter

Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

31Sport 6
2 ** Stitch it

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

29Sport 6
3 Rubik's Cube

Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

28Sport 6

1.2. Baboon Buttress 49 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364821, -25.673029

Approach:

APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Papsak

Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner

22Sport 6
2 * Loopdop

Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner.

17Sport 7
3 * After Thoughts

Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley).

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2009

16Sport 5
4 ** Diablo

Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish.

FA: Evan Margetts, 2011

27Sport 7
5 A.S

Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. A grovel.

14Sport 6
6 ** Raptophilia

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2011

32Sport 8
7 ** Psyche Ward

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

31Sport 5
8 * Blood Diamond

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts., 2012

28Sport 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Baboons in Boardshorts

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

14Sport 7
10 * Trench Town

Slab on arête in descent gulley.

FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano, 2006

Sport 5
11 ** Adam

Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature.

FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt, 2007

22Sport 6
12 ** Irritable Male Syndrome

Climb the next slanting feature.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

22Sport 6
13 * Almost Ushie

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22.

FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007

23Sport 6
14 * One Love

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

FA: Chris Vandereydt, 2006

23Sport 5
15 ** Grizzly Behr

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006

16Sport 9
16 ** Just Behrly

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

30Sport 8
17 ** Renewable Energy

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

18Sport
18 ** Luckly Leila

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004

22Sport
19 ** Whait Watcher Pitch One

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

17Sport 5
20 ** Whait Watcher Pitch Two

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

21Sport 8
21 ** Qina

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

19Sport
22 * No More Dynamo

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

20Sport 8
23 * Slave Species

Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

25Sport 6
24 Up in Smoke

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose.

FA: Mike Mason, 2002

21Sport 10
25 ** Pretenders

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007

24Sport 8
26 * Goose on a Loose

Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2006

26Sport 9
27 ** Up Alard's Crack

If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

17Sport 10
28 ** Kannie-Ballistic

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

27Sport 12
29 ** Ledgends

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

25Sport 6
30 ** Jamani

FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg, 2006

19Sport 6
31 *** Sweet Plum

Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.

FA: Alard Hufner, 2007

25Sport 14
32 ** Sour Grapes

Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

24Sport 13
33 ** Thorns Between the Roses

Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

12Sport 7
34 Twice in a Blue Moon

Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE.

FA: 2009

18Sport 7
35 ** Wild Fire

Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

25Sport 10
36 * Heroes

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

26Sport 9
37 *** Condor

A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt.

FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010

28Sport 11
38 *** The Bovenator

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: 2010

28Sport 11
39 ** Dreamers

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

23Sport 11
40 ** Not-Da-Mamma

Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

23Sport 14
41 * Hey Mamma

Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

16Sport 6
42 *** African Rain

Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

25Sport 14
43 ** Ice Cream Sundae

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

22Sport 65m, 16
44 ** Sticky Toffe Pudding

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2007

23Sport 17
45 ** Sweet Child of Mine

Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey!

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2010

27Sport 14
46 Rolihlahla / The Overlord

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Set by Andrew Pedley, 2008

FA: Sasha DiGiulian, 2013

33Sport
47 The Butterfly Pitch One

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

FA: Alard Hufner

26Sport
48 *** The Butterfly Pitch Two

The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

Sport
49 *** Big Butterfly

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

28Sport

1.3. The God No Wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365182, -25.671748

Description:

The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres

Approach:

A. Access as for Baboon Buttress which rambles on for about 100 metres, keep walking along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning walls.

B. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. After a few minutes you will pass the Little Red Wall then the Disciple Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Rodan

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

33Sport 13
2 *** Godzilla

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

32Sport 14
3 *** Monster

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2006

29Sport 16
4 *** The Beast

Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

31Sport 16
5 *** Mutation Project

Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. Power Endurance on top od endurance = hard and brilliant!

FA: Brian Weaver, 2012

33Sport
6 *** Space Caddet

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

30Sport
7 Heavens Above Project

Open project, an extension of Freak Show, through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. Bolted by Andrew Pedley.

Sport
8 ** Freak Show

Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

28Sport 12
9 ** The Juggernaut

Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2009

30Sport 12
10 *** Freak On

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

24Sport 12
11 * Chocolate Éclair

A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2007

27Sport 4
12 ** Who Needs Lucky Cows / Death by Chocolate

Climb Chocolate Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

FA: Daniel Gebel, 2009

31Sport 12
13 Above and Beyond Project

Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above Lucky Cows, involves a Font 8A+ dyno..BB. Matt Bush October 2011.

Sport
14 *** Dungeons and Dragons

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2007

26Sport 13
15 *** Tokolosie

Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

30Sport 14
16 ** The Blackcountry Butcher

Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie, or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

32Sport 13
17 ** Changing Gears

This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.

FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

25Sport 12
18 ** Jack of All Trades

The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

29Unknown 35m, 15
19 ** Jabberwocky

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

33Sport 14
20 *** Vorpal Sword

The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

31Sport 16
21 *** Hell Yea

A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the „3rd crux‟ to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope

FA: Marc Efune, 2006

27Sport 17
22 ** Rock-Chuka-Chick

Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 1999

24Sport 17
23 *** Big Bad Wolf

10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

24Sport 40m, 16
24 * Burning Spear

Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

FA: Marc Efune, 2009

28Sport 17
25 ** Alice in Grannyland

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters.

FA: Greg Watkins, 1998

24Unknown 35m, 16

1.4. The Disciple Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365478, -25.671242

Description:

To the right of the God No! Wall.

Approach:

"Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards." - Climb ZA Wiki

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bittergal

Starts to the left of the tree. A tricky looking first few meters on is on dolerite (an igneous rock), changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt.

FA: Greg Borman, 2009

22Sport 28m, 14
2 *** The day of the Triffids / Brolloks

Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed.

FFA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998

19Sport 25m, 14
3 *** Goodwill van die Zoeloes / Groenie Die Drakie

Just right of Brolloks, great, bit cruxier than Brollocks. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the Brollocks start.

FFA: Ian Manson & G Shepston, 1992

FA: BB Ken Thrash, 1999

21Sport 28m, 13
4 ** Sarel Seemonster

Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Again, climb 4 bolts then move left and up.

FA: Ken Thrash June, 2009

18Sport 28m, 12
5 ** Lucy

The right most line. Clip first 3-4 bolts of Sarel Seemonster then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree.

FA: Daryl Margetts, 2010

FA: E Margetts, 2010

FA: A Margetts, 2010

17Sport 25m, 12

1.5. The Little Red Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.365661, -25.670841

Description:

This wall is dark red in colour and can be seen through the trees about 50 m up and right of the Disciple Wall. Some pretty cool climbs here and it‟s only 2 minutes from the God No! Wall.

HEIGHT: 15 - 20 Metres

Approach:

A. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo, in which case the first wall you will reach is the Little Red Wall.

B. Continue up right another 30 metres from the Disciple Wall (approach as for God No! Wall)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Grannie's Cottage / Digiridoo Project

This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.

FA: Matthew Murison, 1998

25Sport 8
2 ** Little Red Riding Hood

A super little climb, a great first 24.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

25Sport 9
3 ** The Loan Arranger

Just right of LRRH. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, 1992

25Trad
4 * Him Speak With Forked Tongue

Trad line just right of THE LOAN ARRANGER.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998

23Trad
5 ** Halongmaishlong

This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of LRRH.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

20Sport 13

1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall 97 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365779, -25.670137

Description:

Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs. Climbs are of relatively short stature but some are of excellent quality. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs; so before you bolt another line, consider if it is really necessary…

HEIGHT: 5 - 18 Metres

Approach:

A. From the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliff line….Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) sign. Here, leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs.

B. From the Tranquilitas camping, take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right, towards the cliff line. Take this path and follow it this as described above.

C. To get to the right-hand end of the crag approach as above, pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres. The path curves leftward and at a cairn, a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path, which doubles back towards the south, past a wooden barrier and to a small gulley at the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I R Baboon

The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South.

FA: D Margetts, A Margetts, E Margetts & T Margetts, 2002

12Sport 5
2 ** Smoking Dread Locks

The crack line.

FA: D Margetts & G Frost, 2003

21Sport 5
3 * Comfort Zone

Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left.

FA: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts & A. Grant, 2001

20Sport 6
4 * The Flying Scotsman

The desperate looking blank face.

FA: James Roberts, 2002

26Sport 5
5 * Hey Pappa

The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing.

FA: Albert Smit, 2000

24Sport 5
6 * Hamster Hotel

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

15Sport 6
7 ** Two Cam Sam

Start in the corner up to a loose looking block.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2007

23Trad
8 ** Rat Pallace

A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.

FA: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle, 2001

20Sport 9
9 ** Last Hurrah

Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of RP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

16Sport 7
10 * Roundabout Now

5m left of Bamboozled. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

19Trad
11 * Man Slaves

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

15Sport 9
12 ** Bamboozled

10m left of DL. A fine route with an arete high up. Low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

27Sport 9
13 ** La Croisiere S'amuse

Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

24Sport 10
14 *** Lab Rat

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2006

33Sport 10
15 ** Dexter's Lab

Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

23Sport 12
16 ** Cloud City

Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts, 2010

21Sport 10
17 * Smokey the Bear

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

15Sport 9
18 ** Bongoleo

about 5m left of WICKED.

FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson, 2000

21Sport 8
19 ** Ceasarian

Start on BONGOLEO, break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED.

FA: ustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

23Sport 11
20 *** Wicked

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

26Sport 10
21 * Drop Kicked

2 Metres right of "Wicked". Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent!

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

26Sport 9
22 *** Five Lives Left

2m right of DK. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

19Sport 8
23 ** Dutch Popcorn

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

FA: Alard Hufner, 1999

26Sport 12
24 ** I Just Cant Bolt It

The obvious crack line just right of DP.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

20Trad
25 ** Searching

Climb the recess, break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

22Trad
26 ** Lion Hunt

Funky face climbing, then through an overlap.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

22Sport 10
27 * Shroom Hunter

Left of the open book, railing out right on top.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

21Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 ** Hemp on the HIll

Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter.

FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner, 2004

17Sport 11
29 * Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam

Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree.

FA: Dermot Brogan, 2000

23Sport 8
30 ** Snakeskin Safari Suit

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the M & M face.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & D. Chesney, 2000

18Sport 10
31 ** M&M

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring, 1999

30Sport 7
32 * The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

18Sport 8
33 ** Are You Chicken Enough

Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2012

25Trad
34 * Moondance

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

FA: Claire Keaton, 1999

20Sport 12
35 ** Loch Ness

Start about 1.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face

FA: Ken Thrash, 2010

25Sport 7
36 ** Morse Code

Begins with a boulder problem following the crack 6 m right of Moon Dance.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2009

27Trad
37 ** Ants in Your Pants

Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

28Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
38 ** Once in a Blue Moon

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 11
39 * Blood on the Rocks

Goes up and to the left of the arete.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 1999

23Sport 10
40 ** Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble

A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

24Sport 9
41 * Chics for Free

Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

15Sport 9
42 * Doom

Starts in the middle of the face about 2 metres left of CC. Trend leftwards to the arete and then follow break rightwards to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 10
43 * Neither Here Nor There

Start as for Doom, but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with DOOM.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
44 * Cenotaph Corner

Starts in the obvious corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

16Sport 9
45 ** Old Crusty's Last Stand

Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

18Sport 10
46 * Be Quick Or Be Dead

Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

24Sport 10
47 ** High Speed Dirt

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

20Sport 11
48 * Fat Annie

The bouldery face right of CFF.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002

25Sport 6
49 ** Slim JIm

Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2003

19Sport 7
50 * The One That Got Away

The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2004

23Sport 8
51 * Teacher's Pet

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1999

15Sport 8
52 * Banging Bridget Jones

Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 2003

18Sport 9
53 ** Spicy Haberero Salsa

Start on the right of Banging Bridget on the flat holds. Traverse L into the seam and up, moving left into a crack then rightwards and over a rood and crack to finish.

FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, 2011

24Sport 5
54 * Zellweger Variation

Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

17Sport 9
55 * Zellweger

Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

16Sport 9
56 * The Pallbearer

Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

17Sport 6
57 Fisticuffs

Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

13Sport 5
58 It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

15Sport 6
59 *** Angel of Mercy

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

16Sport 8
60 ** Saint Gabriel

Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock.

FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

21Sport 6
61 ** The Winnebago Smile

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad retrobolted

FA: J Sydow, Phil Lloyd, Ian Manson, 1992

19Sport 12
62 ** Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding

Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.”

FA: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson, 1992

21Sport 10
63 * Witless

Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop, 1992

25Trad
64 ** Task Saturated

Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

25Sport 8
65 * Santa's Little Helper

Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.

FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999

20Sport 10
66 Reminiscing

This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH.

FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo, 2000

17Sport 11
67 * Please Don't Touch

This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

23Sport 9
68 * Champange on Ice

Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete.

FA: Janse van Rensburg, 2005

25Sport 9
69 ** Dead Ant

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

21Sport 10
70 * Variation to Wood Pile Crack

This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

18Sport 9
71 * Wood Pile Crack

The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

18Sport 9
72 ** The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish

Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2005

23Sport
73 * Mountain Pursuit

Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

12Sport 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
74 ** Gravy Train

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000

15Unknown 8
75 ** Dead Gecko

Just right of Gravy Train.

FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano, 2005

19Sport 7
76 * B & B

Climb the chimney crack on good pro.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2001

17Trad
77 ** Captain Hook

Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 2000

18Sport 12
78 * The Claregate

Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

17Sport 12
79 ** Aussie Rules / Ozzy Rules

Just right of CLAREGATE.

FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999

17Sport 10
80 * Unfinished Business

Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough.

FA: Ken Thrash

22Sport 7
81 ** Face in the Trough

A face climb staying right of the bolts.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

23Sport 9
82 * Forest Glump

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000

14Sport 10
83 * Lining Your Pockets

Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2000

17Sport 9
84 Mission from Glod

Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

16Sport 11
85 * Sand Glod

This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

16Sport 12
86 ** Panty-Slapped

The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

28Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
87 ** Emancipated Spider Chicks

Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.

FA: G. Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

20Sport 9
88 * Butterfly Snowstorm

Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.

FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot, 2000

13Sport 7
89 ** Clockwork Orange

Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2008

16Sport 9
90 * Clockwork Orange Variation

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt.

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2009

14Sport 8
91 * Rocky's

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

15Sport 10
92 * Iron Lotus

Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).

FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts, 2010

21Sport 8
93 * The Ladder

Right of the aboveS

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

14Sport
94 * Fadja's Revenge

5 meters to the right of the Ladder

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

9Sport 5
95 You Mean That's It 21Unknown
96 ** Dream Come True 19Sport
97 Mike Behr's Route 22Unknown

1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365994, -25.668741

Description:

This recently developed crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the right end of Hallucinogen wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Zooter

Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains

FA: D Margetts, 2008

17Sport 9
2 * Golden Pie

Climb layback crack

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

17Sport 7
3 ** Brunch

The best route at the crag, climbs a blunt arête feature. Step left at the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2010

19Sport 8
4 * Chicken Wing

Climb short face and arete

FA: D Margetts K Thrash, 2008

15Sport 8
5 * Spare Rib

Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing

FA: D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts

12Sport 7
6 * Crack Up

Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts

15Sport 5

1.8. Reunion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

On the way to the Superbowl a smooth vertical face is found on the left behind some rocks and a cactus tree. The wall faces north-northeast so remains sunny until early afternoon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** I Dexe

The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

24Sport 10
2 *** Cactus Palace

The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2004

23Sport 10
3 * For Your Colorfication

he hard-looking face climb to the right of CACTUS PALACE.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

28Sport 8

1.9. The Superbowl 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364117, -25.666317

Description:

One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.

Approach:

A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Kimchi

Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.

FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007

27Sport 11
2 *** Doug in the Yellow House

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005

26Sport 13
3 ** Coach

Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011

25Sport 12
4 ** Frazzle

The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

FA: Paul Brouard, 2000

33Sport 15
5 *** Snapdragon

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992

29Sport 30m, 13
6 * Hack and Slay

Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

FA: Richard Lord, 1994

31Sport 30m, 16
7 Project

Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers

22Unknown
8 ** Giants

Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27Sport 12
9 *** Karfoefeling

Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

26Sport 13
10 *** Loslappie Link-Up

The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

FA: Wesley Black, 2010

28Sport 15
11 *** Welcome to Ovamboland

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

32Sport 15
12 *** Rude Bushmen

This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

24Sport 15
13 * Normal Hard Daddy

Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007

25Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 *** Lotter's Desire

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

27Sport 11
15 *** Hypertension

A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005

30Sport 13
16 ** Tugela Blue

This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

27Sport 12
17 ** Out of a Limb

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

FA: Mark Millar, 2006

26Sport 10
18 ** Soul Mandate

Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

25Sport 11
19 * Miss Mckinley

30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

23Sport 9
20 * The Doomsday Device

Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012

26Sport 13
21 ** Strata

Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.

FA: Paul Brouard, 2001

32Sport 14
22 ** Tripolactic Fairytales

Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....

FA: Will Watkins, 1998

27Sport 10
23 * Beehive

Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996

12Sport 15
24 * Tree House

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996

20Sport 14
25 * Paradise By the C / Paradise By the Sea

Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

27Sport 10
26 ** Hallucigenic Toreador

Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: C Nicole, 1997

27Sport 13
27 * Brain Damaged

Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006

22Sport 12
28 * Sleepless Tad

About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992

22Sport 5
29 ** Club Tropicana Coconuts

Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.

FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999

24Sport 9
30 * Le Sketch

The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003

23Sport 11
31 * Glen

Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
32 * Into the Black

Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
33 ** Precision Feather

A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

21Sport 12
34 * Almost My Balls

The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

20Sport 14
35 * Penny Royal Tee

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face

FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996

17Sport 14
36 * Teen Spirit

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999

20Sport 14

1.10. The Left Wings 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.363856, -25.664677

Description:

For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

Approach:

A. From the Superbowl, walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gulley that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of the Superbowl, down the gulley, then keep left and after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Why

Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

20Trad
2 * Herman the German

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

FA: Adam, 1994

26Sport 10
3 Herman's Route

Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.

FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992

24Sport 5
4 * True Blue

Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

16Trad
5 * Wysiwyg

Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

12Trad
6 ** Chunky Monkey

The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy!

FA: FA: Mark Seuring, 1998

27Sport 9
7 ** Hounds Mousse

Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey.

FA: Axel Wachter, 2000

25Sport 11
8 * New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch

This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

18Sport 10
9 * Home Alone

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

19Trad
10 ** Puppet on a String

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
11 * Through the Looking Glass

The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG‟s description.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
12 * Balrog

The line left of Transmogrifier

FA: Tessa Little, 2001

25Sport 9
13 Transmogrifier

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

FA: Mark Seuring, 2001

26Sport 9
14 * Uiters Tors

Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

FA: tewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992

21Trad

1.11. The Theatre 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.363827, -25.663584

Description:

A few incredible lines including some classic trad on the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! Be brave and leave the „social‟ crags of God No and Superbowl for a day and ckeck out these brilliant lines.

Approach:

As for the Left Wing, continue another 50 metres or so until a huge slightly detached 4 metre high block is reached. The big orange left-facing wall of Heart of China is an obvious landmark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Endless October

Starts at the left end of the ledge/block. Brilliant.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

24Sport 9
2 ** Sweet Cousin Cocaine

From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section then a finish on huge jugs. Superb.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25Sport 10
3 ** Night of the Toast

The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre, just right of Sweet Cousin Cocaine.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

23Trad
4 ** Bikini Red

Stunning! Better than Lotters? In the middle of the face. Name written at base. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy. Don‟t stray left at the top, just trust those feet and go!

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

27Sport 9
5 Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator

Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

16Trad
6 * Stage Fright

Climbs the arete to the choss above

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Trad
7 * Centre Stage

This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. Fight your way through the choss at the top and avoid killing people below.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

18Trad
8 *** Into the Night We Slide

Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre, a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

23Trad
9 *** Heart of China

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at The Restaurant.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

Trad
10 *** Kindered Spirits

At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left). Opened at 25!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

26Sport 9

1.12. The Right Wings 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.363970, -25.662585

Description:

Has anybody been back since 1992?! If you are looking for some hidden gems go there! The path was recently cleared out by Pedley and Weaver.

Approach:

Walk on and around the corner from the Theatre.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Star Gazers

Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left. Apparently hard to find placements for the belay at the top.

FA: Russ Dodding, M Erens & G Erens, 1992

17Trad
2 * Waiting for Gossip

Climbs the corner to the left of Damn the Torpedoes. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Chris Lomax & Richard Lord, 1992

23Trad
3 * Damn the Torpedoes

Climb the „‟Indian Creek‟‟ type corner 20m left of Joy Division, left of a very steep leaning wall (Tectonic Wall).. The bolt can be seen from the ground. Great climbing with a single stopper crux.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

27Trad
4 Paul's Project

Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of Joy Division. Ask Paul Bouard if you can open it.

31Unknown
5 ** Joy Division

The rough textured blank wall. Climb slightly rightwards with difficulty up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top. Originally graded 29. Totally impossible if you are short..go on, prove me wrong!

FA: Richard Lord, 1992

30Sport 12

1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This crag is around the corner from The Right Wing, past JOY DIVISION. If you do these climbs you deserve big respect for being keen and making the effort! Go do them!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Collapse of Reason

The left route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

23Sport 10
2 *** Rise of Faith

The right route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

22Sport 10
3 * Unexplored Galaxy

Around the corner of Rise of Faith.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 2007

21Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 ** Milou Sport 8 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
* Fadja's Revenge Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
11 *** Mel Sport 8 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
12 ** Crouching Tiger Sport 10 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
** Thorns Between the Roses Sport 7 1.2. Baboon Buttress
I R Baboon Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Mountain Pursuit Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Spare Rib Sport 7 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Beehive Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
* Wysiwyg Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
13 * Butterfly Snowstorm Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Fisticuffs Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
14 ** Feel Good Sport 7 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
** Jackie Chan Sport 9 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
A.S Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Baboons in Boardshorts Sport 7 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Clockwork Orange Variation Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Forest Glump Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Ladder Sport 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
15 * Aapstreke Trad 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* I.M.O. Julius Trad 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* Chimneying Tammy Sport 7 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
* Chics for Free Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Gravy Train Unknown 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Hamster Hotel Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Man Slaves Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Rocky's Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Smokey the Bear Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Teacher's Pet Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Chicken Wing Sport 8 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Crack Up Sport 5 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
16 *** Me Tarzan, You Jane Sport 9 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
** Little Bonsai Sport 20m, 12 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
* After Thoughts Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Grizzly Behr Sport 9 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Angel of Mercy Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Cenotaph Corner Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Clockwork Orange Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Last Hurrah Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Mission from Glod Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Sand Glod Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Zellweger Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* True Blue Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator Trad 1.11. The Theatre
** Ceaser Trad 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* Hey Mamma Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
17 * Quack-Quack Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
* Squeeze your Balls Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
* When You Need It Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
*** Consistency is Fasion Sport 10 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
*** Alex's Mousse au Chocolat Sport 13 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Caviars Whiskers Sport 9 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
* Loopdop Sport 7 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Up Alard's Crack Sport 10 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Whait Watcher Pitch One Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Lucy Sport 25m, 12 1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Aussie Rules Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* B & B Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Hemp on the HIll Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Lining Your Pockets Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Reminiscing Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Claregate Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Pallbearer Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Zellweger Variation Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Golden Pie Sport 7 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Zooter Sport 9 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Penny Royal Tee Sport 14 1.9. The Superbowl
* Star Gazers Trad 1.12. The Right Wings
18 * Omte Pee Om te Poep Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Evelyn Sport 12 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Endless Blowjob Sport 12 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Renewable Energy Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
Twice in a Blue Moon Sport 7 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sarel Seemonster Sport 28m, 12 1.4. The Disciple Wall
* Banging Bridget Jones Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Captain Hook Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Old Crusty's Last Stand Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Snakeskin Safari Suit Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Variation to Wood Pile Crack Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Wood Pile Crack Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch Sport 10 1.10. The Left Wings
* Centre Stage Trad 1.11. The Theatre
19 *** Als Bells Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Respect for the big Guy Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
*** Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky Sport 10 1.1.2. THE CRECHE
** Jamani Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Qina Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** The day of the Triffids Sport 25m, 14 1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Dead Gecko Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Doom Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dream Come True Sport 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Five Lives Left Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Neither Here Nor There Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Once in a Blue Moon Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Roundabout Now Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Slim JIm Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** The Winnebago Smile Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Brunch Sport 8 1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Home Alone Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
** Puppet on a String Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
* Through the Looking Glass Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
20 ** Walking on Sunshine Trad 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
*** There is Treasure Everywhere Trad 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Biogalactic Gobbleblaster Sport 20m, 8 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Up Your Tree Sport 9 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
* No More Dynamo Sport 8 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Halongmaishlong Sport 13 1.5. The Little Red Wall
* Comfort Zone Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Emancipated Spider Chicks Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** High Speed Dirt Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** I Just Cant Bolt It Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Moondance Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Rat Pallace Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Santa's Little Helper Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Almost My Balls Sport 14 1.9. The Superbowl
* Teen Spirit Sport 14 1.9. The Superbowl
* Tree House Sport 14 1.9. The Superbowl
* Why Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
* Stage Fright Trad 1.11. The Theatre
21 ** Peaceful Sleep Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Roc Rally Sport 9 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
Up in Smoke Sport 10 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Whait Watcher Pitch Two Sport 8 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Goodwill van die Zoeloes Sport 28m, 13 1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Bongoleo Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Cloud City Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dead Ant Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Iron Lotus Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Saint Gabriel Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Shroom Hunter Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Smoking Dread Locks Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
You Mean That's It Unknown 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Glen Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
* Into the Black Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
** Precision Feather Sport 12 1.9. The Superbowl
* Uiters Tors Trad 1.10. The Left Wings
* Unexplored Galaxy Sport 1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
22 ** Soft Sabie Mark Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Woodchoppers and Waterbearers Sport 10 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Balance of Power Sport 8 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Malaria Sport 12 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer Sport 10 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Diseased Mad Cow Sport 11 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** FUG Sport 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro Sport 9 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Adam Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Irritable Male Syndrome Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Luckly Leila Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Papsak Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Bittergal Sport 28m, 14 1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Lion Hunt Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Mike Behr's Route Unknown 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Searching Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Unfinished Business Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Brain Damaged Sport 12 1.9. The Superbowl
Project Unknown 1.9. The Superbowl
* Sleepless Tad Sport 5 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Rise of Faith Sport 10 1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
23 ** Good and Evil Sport 9 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
*** Who's Line is it Anyway Sport 9 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Beat Them Dead Sport 13 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Lost in Translation Sport 14 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Almost Ushie Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Not-Da-Mamma Sport 14 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* One Love Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sticky Toffe Pudding Sport 17 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Him Speak With Forked Tongue Trad 1.5. The Little Red Wall
* Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Blood on the Rocks Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Ceasarian Sport 11 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dexter's Lab Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Face in the Trough Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Please Don't Touch Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The One That Got Away Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish Sport 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Two Cam Sam Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Cactus Palace Sport 10 1.8. Reunion Wall
* Le Sketch Sport 11 1.9. The Superbowl
* Miss Mckinley Sport 9 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Into the Night We Slide Trad 1.11. The Theatre
** Night of the Toast Trad 1.11. The Theatre
* Waiting for Gossip Trad 1.12. The Right Wings
** Collapse of Reason Sport 10 1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
22 ** Ice Cream Sundae Sport 65m, 16 1.2. Baboon Buttress
24 ** Cool Runnings Sport 10 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** S.W.A.T. Team Sport 10 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Grunt Trad 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
* I Feel Rocks Sport 8 1.1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Pretenders Sport 8 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sour Grapes Sport 13 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Alice in Grannyland Unknown 35m, 16 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Big Bad Wolf Sport 40m, 16 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Freak On Sport 12 1.3. The God No Wall
** Rock-Chuka-Chick Sport 17 1.3. The God No Wall
* Be Quick Or Be Dead Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Hey Pappa Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** La Croisiere S'amuse Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Spicy Haberero Salsa Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** I Dexe Sport 10 1.8. Reunion Wall
** Club Tropicana Coconuts Sport 9 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Rude Bushmen Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
Herman's Route Sport 5 1.10. The Left Wings
** Endless October Sport 9 1.11. The Theatre
23 ** The Huffing Warthog Trad 1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Dreamers Sport 11 1.2. Baboon Buttress
25 *** Yellow Polka Dot Sport 11 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* Nitro's Tick Fever Sport 10 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** The Beeman and the Bushman Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Ledgends Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Sweet Plum Sport 14 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Changing Gears Sport 12 1.3. The God No Wall
** Grannie's Cottage Sport 8 1.5. The Little Red Wall
** Little Red Riding Hood Sport 9 1.5. The Little Red Wall
** The Loan Arranger Trad 1.5. The Little Red Wall
** Are You Chicken Enough Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Champange on Ice Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Fat Annie Sport 6 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Loch Ness Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Task Saturated Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Witless Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Normal Hard Daddy Sport 10 1.9. The Superbowl
** Soul Mandate Sport 11 1.9. The Superbowl
* Balrog Sport 9 1.10. The Left Wings
** Hounds Mousse Sport 11 1.10. The Left Wings
** Sweet Cousin Cocaine Sport 10 1.11. The Theatre
26 ** Atlantis Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Goose on a Loose Sport 9 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Heroes Sport 9 1.2. Baboon Buttress
The Butterfly Pitch One Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Dungeons and Dragons Sport 13 1.3. The God No Wall
* Drop Kicked Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dutch Popcorn Sport 12 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Flying Scotsman Sport 5 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Wicked Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Doug in the Yellow House Sport 13 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Karfoefeling Sport 13 1.9. The Superbowl
** Out of a Limb Sport 10 1.9. The Superbowl
* The Doomsday Device Sport 13 1.9. The Superbowl
* Herman the German Sport 10 1.10. The Left Wings
Transmogrifier Sport 9 1.10. The Left Wings
*** Kindered Spirits Sport 9 1.11. The Theatre
25 *** African Rain Sport 14 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Slave Species Sport 6 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Wild Fire Sport 10 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Coach Sport 12 1.9. The Superbowl
27 ** Wasp Warriors Sport 8 1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Inca Trail Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Diablo Sport 7 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Kannie-Ballistic Sport 12 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sweet Child of Mine Sport 14 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Chocolate Éclair Sport 4 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Hell Yea Sport 17 1.3. The God No Wall
** Bamboozled Sport 9 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Morse Code Trad 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Giants Sport 12 1.9. The Superbowl
** Hallucigenic Toreador Sport 13 1.9. The Superbowl
** Kimchi Sport 11 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Lotter's Desire Sport 11 1.9. The Superbowl
* Paradise By the C Sport 10 1.9. The Superbowl
** Tripolactic Fairytales Sport 10 1.9. The Superbowl
** Tugela Blue Sport 12 1.9. The Superbowl
** Chunky Monkey Sport 9 1.10. The Left Wings
** Bikini Red Sport 9 1.11. The Theatre
* Damn the Torpedoes Trad 1.12. The Right Wings
28 *** Eldorado Sport 11 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
Rubik's Cube Sport 6 1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
*** Big Butterfly Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Blood Diamond Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Condor Sport 11 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** The Bovenator Sport 11 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Burning Spear Sport 17 1.3. The God No Wall
** Freak Show Sport 12 1.3. The God No Wall
** Ants in Your Pants Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Panty-Slapped Sport 8 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Loslappie Link-Up Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
29 * Fever Sport 10 1.1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Stitch it Sport 6 1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
** Jack of All Trades Unknown 35m, 15 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Monster Sport 16 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Snapdragon Sport 30m, 13 1.9. The Superbowl
28 * For Your Colorfication Sport 8 1.8. Reunion Wall
30 ** Just Behrly Sport 8 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Space Caddet Sport 1.3. The God No Wall
** The Juggernaut Sport 12 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Tokolosie Sport 14 1.3. The God No Wall
** M&M Sport 7 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Hypertension Sport 13 1.9. The Superbowl
** Joy Division Sport 12 1.12. The Right Wings
31 *** Pit Fighter Sport 6 1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
** Psyche Ward Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** The Beast Sport 16 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Vorpal Sword Sport 16 1.3. The God No Wall
** Who Needs Lucky Cows Sport 12 1.3. The God No Wall
* Hack and Slay Sport 30m, 16 1.9. The Superbowl
Paul's Project Unknown 1.12. The Right Wings
32 ** Raptophilia Sport 8 1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Godzilla Sport 14 1.3. The God No Wall
** The Blackcountry Butcher Sport 13 1.3. The God No Wall
** Strata Sport 14 1.9. The Superbowl
*** Welcome to Ovamboland Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
33 Rolihlahla Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Jabberwocky Sport 14 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Mutation Project Sport 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Rodan Sport 13 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Lab Rat Sport 10 1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Frazzle Sport 15 1.9. The Superbowl
? *** The Butterfly Pitch Two Sport 1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Trench Town Sport 5 1.2. Baboon Buttress
Above and Beyond Project Sport 1.3. The God No Wall
Heavens Above Project Sport 1.3. The God No Wall
*** Heart of China Trad 1.11. The Theatre