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Table of contents

1. The Restaurant Crags 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.347896, -25.650262

Description:

This was the first area to be developed at Boven, back in the early nineties, and still hosts some of the highest quality climbing in Boven. The crags are situated around the Elandskrans Resort which used to be a very popular campsite but at the time of writing is closed. If you visit one crag here make it the Restaurant Crag!

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

At the time of writing the Elandkrans Report is closed. It is possible to pass through the resort to access the crags but probably not a great idea to leave your car here.

1.1. The School 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A small crag, perhaps good for a warm up before going on to Restaurant or Tripple Tier.

Approach:

As for the Restaurant, park at the Elandskrans reception (by the swimming pools). Walk back (towards the resort entrance) until you are on the other side of the main conference hall. There is a path leading down over a small wall beside some camping sites. This path leads steeply down the hillside to the river. About 50m down you will see a small path on the left, heading slightly upwards till you find the first routes after 40m or so.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Gallery

Steep start to a great face/corner. Stiff take-off.

FA: Lizette Guest, 1993

20Sport 9
2 * I Guest Not

Steep powerful arete just right of THE GALLERY.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1993

25Sport 10
3 * First Assignment

Classic at its grade. A vertical wall facing north.

FA: Lizette Guest, 1993

16Sport 9

1.2. The Restaurant Crag 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This crag did not make the front cover of Rotpunkt for nothing, one of Boven‟s best. The clean leaning orange faces host some incredible routes, especially in the 20‟s. Jambo and Bonar to name just a couple.

Approach:

Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left, before the road becomes a gravel road. Drive in past the entrance gate and explain that you are a climber. At the time of writing the climbers could enter for free. Please respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors. Stop in for a beer or a meal at the Restaurant, the original Restaurant at the End of the Universe! The pizzas are huge and the deck has amazing views of the Triple Tier crags. Park anywhere out of the way. Don‟t leave valuables in the car. On foot, pass the swimming pools, heading right towards the cliffs past a warning sign (steep cliffs etc.). Just before reaching the viewpoint from the (Gaper) buttress, turn sharp right and after 20 metres the path forks. Go left and down steeply through trees over some slippery rocks. The crag can also be accessed from the left end by walking past the School sector.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Purple Droll

Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Climb up to a tree and into a chimney.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21Trad
2 Attack of the Killer Tree

The route to the left of the dead tree.

FA: Chris Wynn, 1997

17Sport 10
3 * Not the Nine O'Clock News

This climb used to start up a tree which has fallen away. The start is probably considerably trickier now and may a bolt or two.

FA: Mike Behr, 1997

22Sport 11
4 ** Mostly Harmless

Solid at the grade! Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27Unknown 8
5 ** Eraserhead

Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt, then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right. Low in the grade.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

28Sport 10
6 * Blockbuster

Starts just right of ERASERHEAD. Can have lot of wasps nests!

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

25Sport
7 * The Playpen

Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

26Sport 10
8 ** Jambo

Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. Then take the left break up to anchors. One of best routes in Boven.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

25Sport 13
9 ** Flambeau

Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO, then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall…

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

23Sport 12
10 * Limbo Direct

Direct start past a bolt to lunge for the branch.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

21Sport 12
11 * Limbo

Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO, walk left along the limb, then up the wall to chains. Great climbing - after the tree.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

20Sport 11
12 ** Jigaboo

An excellent line, so much fun.

FA: Matt Murison & Alard Hüfner, 1997

24Sport 8
13 ** World's Apart

A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Lobster himself. One of the first routes here.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1991

26Sport 9
14 * Looking for the Lobster

About 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack. Keep to the left through the tree to reach good climbing up the crack and face above.

FA: Clive Curson & Mike Bruncke, 1993

21Sport 12
15 * Access Route to Gretchen Et Al / To Gretchen Et Al

Climb up 7 bolts on a line just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance. The next 4 routes can be done from this large ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

15Sport 9
16 * Red Harvest

3m right of LFTL, starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Can be climbed from the bottom, go right around the tree.

FA: Clive Curson & Fran Botha, 1993

19Sport 8
17 * Jungle Uncle

Climbs the shallow corner to the left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Trad
18 * Gretchen Goes to Nebraska

From the belay bolts on the large ledge, climb the face route left of the obvious corner.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

21Sport 8
19 ** Amazon Aunt

Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen, on the same ledge. Great climb to practice trad leading.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

17Sport 10
20 * Out Through the in Door

Up the ACCESS ROUTE TO GRETCHEN ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

22Sport 13
21 * In Through the Out Door

Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA, on the face left of the arete. Dicey gear, mostly small wires.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21Trad
22 ** Bonar

Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Long and pumpy.

FA: arryl Margetts & Bernie Schumacher, 1993

20Sport 14
23 Mjs

A hardish move through the groove near the ground.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1993

18Sport 11
24 * G.P. Le Chuck

Starts as for RED HERRING, then goes left after the first bolt. Somewhat contrived finishing crux.

FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1991

21Sport 9
25 ** Red Herring

fine climb up the middle of the face.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

20Sport 25m, 9
26 * Faraday's Cage

Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING, up the right side of the face. Recently rebolted by Darryl

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine,, 1993

17Sport 10

1.3. The Gaper Buttress 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The obvious buttress down and right past the swimming pools at Elandskrans. Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24‟s and 27 in Boven. When the campsite is busy, the top of this crag can be popular with gapers (tourists), hence the name.

Approach:

As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto the top of the buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Atomic Aardvark

A hallowed classic. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. Can skip some of the bolts, especially at the start to reduce drag.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

24Sport 16
2 ** The Gift

WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality, possibly best 27 in Boven. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

27Sport 9
3 * The Fix

Starts from a stance 8 metres up. Rap down to the first bolt. One of the harder excrutiatingly technical climbs around. Was opened at 29.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

30Sport 9
4 * Achtung Baby

Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1992

24Sport 8
5 * Zoo Station

2m right of ACHTUNG BABY.

FA: Ian Manson, Mike Cartwright, 1992

23Sport 8
6 * L'il Arete Number

About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

21Sport 6
7 * First Dimension

Belay at LAN's first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use LAN's lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

23Sport 6

1.4. The Gaper Face 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The place to be if you love thin face climbing.

Approach:

The easiest trail is the one coming in from Easter Face. Alternatively just keep walking right and uphill from the base of the Gaper Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pocket Rocket

8m right of FIRST DIMENSION. Short and bouldery, not a giveaway.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

24Sport 8
2 * Lounge Lizard

The leftmost route on the face near the corner. Reachy.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 7
3 * Brain Dead

Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

23Sport 6
4 * Gaper Caper

Step off the right edge of the ledge - climb the face to the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

21Sport 7
5 * Grockel Mania

Start 2m right of the ledge.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

22Sport 7
6 * Gaper Trail

Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE, then break up left past two bolts and a #3.5 friend placement.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

20Trad
7 * To Gape Or Not to Be

Climb the seam on the right (wires), then up the wall above past two bolts.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

20Mixed 2
8 * Deck Chair

Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Gets easier after a few moves.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

25Sport 7
9 * Gaper Go-Go

Start below the triangular corner. Trend slightly left towards the top.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

11Trad

1.5. The Easter Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Passion Play 23Unknown
2 * Crown of Thorns 24Unknown
3 Last Station 22Unknown

1.6. The Monsoon Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Andy's Route 19Unknown
2 Rachel's Project -Unknown
3 Psychedelic Sandwich 23Unknown
4 Tropical Front 20Unknown
5 Hammer Time 19Unknown
6 Gung Ho 24Unknown
7 The Ego Has Landed 17Unknown
8 Glass and a Half 16Unknown
9 * Wild Hearted Sun 24Unknown
10 ** Angel Dust 22Unknown
11 ** Rainbow Children 24Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
11 * Gaper Go-Go Trad 1.4. The Gaper Face
15 * Access Route to Gretchen Et Al Sport 9 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
16 * First Assignment Sport 9 1.1. The School
Glass and a Half Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
17 ** Amazon Aunt Sport 10 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
Attack of the Killer Tree Sport 10 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Faraday's Cage Sport 10 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
The Ego Has Landed Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
18 Mjs Sport 11 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
19 * Red Harvest Sport 8 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
Andy's Route Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
Hammer Time Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
20 * The Gallery Sport 9 1.1. The School
** Bonar Sport 14 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Jungle Uncle Trad 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Limbo Sport 11 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
** Red Herring Sport 25m, 9 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Gaper Trail Trad 1.4. The Gaper Face
* To Gape Or Not to Be Mixed 2 1.4. The Gaper Face
Tropical Front Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
21 * G.P. Le Chuck Sport 9 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Gretchen Goes to Nebraska Sport 8 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* In Through the Out Door Trad 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Limbo Direct Sport 12 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Looking for the Lobster Sport 12 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Purple Droll Trad 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* L'il Arete Number Sport 6 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Gaper Caper Sport 7 1.4. The Gaper Face
* Lounge Lizard Sport 7 1.4. The Gaper Face
22 * Not the Nine O'Clock News Sport 11 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Out Through the in Door Sport 13 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Grockel Mania Sport 7 1.4. The Gaper Face
Last Station Unknown 1.5. The Easter Face
** Angel Dust Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
23 ** Flambeau Sport 12 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* First Dimension Sport 6 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Zoo Station Sport 8 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Brain Dead Sport 6 1.4. The Gaper Face
Passion Play Unknown 1.5. The Easter Face
Psychedelic Sandwich Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
24 ** Jigaboo Sport 8 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Achtung Baby Sport 8 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
** Atomic Aardvark Sport 16 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Pocket Rocket Sport 8 1.4. The Gaper Face
* Crown of Thorns Unknown 1.5. The Easter Face
Gung Ho Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
** Rainbow Children Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Wild Hearted Sun Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall
25 * I Guest Not Sport 10 1.1. The School
* Blockbuster Sport 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
** Jambo Sport 13 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Deck Chair Sport 7 1.4. The Gaper Face
26 * The Playpen Sport 10 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
** World's Apart Sport 9 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
27 ** Mostly Harmless Unknown 8 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
** The Gift Sport 9 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
28 ** Eraserhead Sport 10 1.2. The Restaurant Crag
30 * The Fix Sport 9 1.3. The Gaper Buttress
- Rachel's Project Unknown 1.6. The Monsoon Wall