A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
The Island
49 in Crag
- 1.1. The Boulevard 6 in Cliff
- 1.2. The Gulley 6 in Cliff
- 1.3. The Beach 14 in Cliff
- 1.4. Never Never Land 23 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Island 49 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.646306, 30.348386
description
The distinctive "island" of rock; the locals refer to this outcrop as "Loskop", literally meaning loose (standing) head; try to keep yours screwed on. The climbing has an old school feel, one of the first to be developed in Boven along with the Restaurant. The crags are not as steep as some of the newer areas but for some 4-star technical face and slab climbing this is the place to visit, especially for 18 to 26. These days these crags don't see much traffic these days and the forest is taking back the crags; don't let this put you off though, have a retro day and tick a load of old classics.
access issues
Climbing Permits Wonderland
The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.
Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:
Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30
Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50
Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300
Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200
By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.
Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.
For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:
Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.
ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.
approach
Park at the Elandskrans Resort, as described for 'The Restaurant Crags'. Walk past the swimming pools. At the corner of the basketball court a good path leads out over the grassy plateau. After approx 300 meters, take a faint path on the right, perpendicular to the main path. This leads to a large cairn and a view across to the Island. Go steeply down (no path) into the little valley, into the trees, then up the other side on a path that leads up past some big cairns to the middle of the Island.
1.1. The Boulevard 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.646814, 30.349377
approach
As for 'The Gulley'. Just after passing the climb 'Return to the Wolgan Valley' and 'Allegro Non Troppo', turn right towards and right around the boulder again. A stand-alone climb, 'Pending Investigation' is soon found on the right. The other climbs are 20m further along.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Surf's Up
The left route. A wide variety of unusual moves. FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison, 1995 | 19 | 11 | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Billabong
Starts 5m right of 'Surf's Up', on a small arête. Pull it. FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison, 1995 | 21 | 11 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Ripcurl
Start in the corner 3m right of 'Billabong'. Great technical climbing, getting steadily trickier. FA: Glenn Harrison & Mike Behr, 1995 | 23 | 9 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Country Feeling
4m right of 'Ripcurl' corner is a 3-4 cm crack. Climb it to the face above. FA: Mike Behr, 1996 | 17 | 8 | |||
| 5 |
★ Quicksilver
6-7 metres right of 'Ripcurl' is another bolted line near a block. Climb the face. If you use the block to the right, the route can be 18/19. Ends near the ledge on the right. FA: Mike Behr, 1996 | 21 | 7 | |||
| 6 |
★ Pending Investigation
The rightmost route, hidden just left of the obvious recess. 3m from the righthand edge of the buttress. FA: Clive Curson, 1994 | 21 | 8 | |||
1.2. The Gulley 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.646555, 30.348951
description
A shady gully with some nice technical slab and face climbs. 'The Beach' is only a few meters away; combined these are probably the best crags at 'The Island'.
approach
From the cairns as you arrive onto the Island, walk 50 meters across the "summit" and you can't fail to see the obvious wide gully. Scramble down leftwards easily.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Amazonian War Dance
Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right looking down the gully (opposite 'Long John Silver'). FA: Ian Guest, 1993 | 21 | 6 | |||
| 2 |
★ Long John Silver
About 15m down the gulley on the left. Climb the face to a small roof. FA: Clive Curson, 1993 | 20 | 9 | |||
| 3 |
★ Rock Island / Fantasia
The seam just right of 'Long John Silver'. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. Unintentionally retro-bolted and renamed Fantasia. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, W Jenkin & Clive Curson, 1992 | 20 | 8 | |||
| 4 |
★ Face the Music
The thin face just right of 'Rock Island'. FA: Lizette Guest, 1993 | 21 | 9 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Return to the Wolgan Valley
The smooth-looking slab 15m down from 'Rock Island'. Not too tough for the grade. FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992 | 18 | 11 | |||
| 6 |
★★ Allegro Non Troppo
5m right of 'Return to the Wolgan Valley'. This face has a thin start. FA: Barbara Curson, 1994 | 19 | 13 | |||
1.3. The Beach 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -25.646352, 30.348607
description
Only a few meters from 'The Gulley'. This crag hosts some great "old-school" face climbs, especially in the 21 to 26 range. A great day out!
approach
Continue further along down from 'The Gulley'.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Gert's Nineteen
About 10m down from Allegro Non Troppo. FA: Gert Muller, 1993 | 22 | 8 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Gloin
Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gulley. FA: Gert Muller, 1992 | 19 | 9 | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Rain Man
A superb climb! Start 5m right of GLOIN. Excellent face climbing. Run out in parts. FA: Ralf Tenbrink, 1994 | 21 | 9 | |||
| 4 |
★ Mrs Doubtfire
Crack line on the right of Rain Man. A touch runout on the crux -take one 0.5 cam along if you're worried. Easy if you are comfortable at this grade. FA: Ralf Tenbrink & F Huber, 1994 | 22 | 8 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Old Spice
5m right of MD. Brilliant. FA: Ian Guest, 1993 | 25 | 13 | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Shrine of the Sea Monkeys
Stiff crank 4m right of Old Spice. FA: Tim Hoole, 1993 | 24 | 9 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Castaway
Starts up the arete low down. Very long reach to bolt through roof. The name is written on the rock. FA: Grant Murray, 1993 | 24 | 9 | |||
| 8 |
★ Clockwork Monkey
Starts off the platform halfway up the wall 15m right of Castaway. FA: Grant Murray, 1993 | 25 | 8 | |||
| 9 |
★ Comedy Waltz
Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level. FA: Grant Murray, 1993 | 23 | 8 | |||
| 10 |
★ Friday
Climb the left of the pillar, 25m beyond Castaway. Keep right of the third bolt. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray too far to the left. FA: Grant Murray, 1993 | 23 | 6 | |||
| 11 |
★ Spring Tide
Up the middle of the pillar. No shortage of bolts. FA: Ian Guest, 1993 | 23 | 9 | |||
| 12 |
Beach Cocktail
Climb the right hand edge of the pillar. FA: B Meinicke, 1994 | 16 | 6 | |||
| 13 |
★ Africa Trip
Starts about 10m right of the pillar, on the main wall. Very lead out with only a single top anchor. A good route, anyone please add another top anchor. FA: Ralf Tenbrink & R Huber, 1994 | 23 | 9 | |||
| 14 |
★ Dassieburger
5m right of Africa Trip, up the blunt arete. Take care on this route with only 1 top anchor. FA: Ralf Tenbrink, 1994 | 22 | 10 | |||
1.4. Never Never Land 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -25.645926, 30.347594
description
What a weird but cool place, a collection of pinnacles and chasms, you have to climb here at least once.
approach
As you arrive at the top of 'The Island', head northwest for 100m until you reach the corner overlooking the highway; you will see some deep dark chasms and pillars. Standing above the chasms, facing out, on the left is an open bushy gully. Walk down this easily. Halfway down on the right is a nice ledge ('Shiver Me Timbers' etc are here). To get to the rest of the climbs, continue down the gully and across a rocky slope, on the right you will see an obvious cleft/chasm with a huge chockstone. Walk up this chasm and you will arrive facing 'Guy's Slab'.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Shiver Me Timbers
Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arête about 20m right of 'Wizards'. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay. FA: Michael Cartwright & Mike Loewe, 1992 | 18 | 7 | |||
| 2 |
★ Blunt Blade
The bolted face right of the arête and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks ('By Hook Or By Crook', 'Tinkerbell'). Look high past the the last bolt for lower-off hangers. FA: Ian Guest, 1994 | 22 | 6 | |||
| 3 |
No Crack Crooking
Squeezed between 'Blunt Blade' and 'By Hook Or By Crook' crack. Uses 'Blunt Blade' lower-ofs. FA: Gert Muller, 1994 | 21 | 5 | |||
| 4 |
★ Thank Heaven for Little Girls
The steep left-leaning arete opposite Guys Slab Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw. FA: Doug Ward & Pete Becker, 1992 | 23 | 5 | |||
| 5 |
★ Slick and Shine
Off-width left of 'Forever Young'. FA: Gert Muller, 1994 | 21 | 5 | |||
| 6 |
Why Me?
The scoop just right of 'Slick and Shine'. Pre-clip the first draw. FA: Mark Seuring, 1996 | 26 | 4 | |||
| 7 |
★★ Forever Young
The short north-facing wall 10m left of 'Wizards' arête. Careful not to stand on the bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right! FA: Michael Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992 | 21 | 8 | |||
| 8 |
★★ Overboard
Right leaning diagonal break (rock #1). A one move 20. FA: Michael Cartwright, 1992 | 20 | ||||
| 9 |
★★ Wizards
The left side of the dark arête, left of Guys Slab, with a large flat flake leaning against it. Lower-off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the first bolt, for climber & belayers sake. Hopefully by the time you climb this route, the bolts have been replaced. FA: Michael Cartwright, 1992 | 24 | 6 | |||
| 10 |
★ Guy's Slab
The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of 'Wizards' arête. Use 'Wizards' lower-offs. FA: Paul Every, 1993 | 28 | 7 | |||
| 11 |
★ Skirting the Issue
Something different. Straddle the 'Wizards' and 'Dance of the Satin Spider' arête till it gets too wide, clipping 'Dance of the Satin Spider' bolts to that lower-off. Definitely a size or flexibility dependent grade. FA: Gert Forster, 1994 | 17 | 6 | |||
| 12 |
★ Dance of the Satin Spider
The arête opposite 'Wizards'. The 2nd clip has great character. A challenging and thin 22. FA: Shelley Carter, 1992 | 22 | 6 | |||
| 13 |
★ Fairy Fingers
This route is opposite 'Wizards' with U-bolts. | 25 | 5 | |||
| 14 |
★ Operasie Bullie Bief
A shocking-looking off-width, awesome when lay-backed. On the back of the pinnacle that hosts 'Fairy Fingers'. FA: Ian Guest, 1994 | 23 | 8 | |||
| 15 |
Keelhaul the Rat
Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney. FA: Michael Cartwright & L Waldman, 1992 | 17 | ||||
| 16 |
K1
Starts 20m down the slope from 'Shiver Me Timbers'. Climb up just right of the arête to the ledge. FA: Clive Curson, 1993 | 16 | ||||
| 17 |
K2
Starts in the middle of the face just right of 'K1' (facing road). FA: Clive Curson, 1993 | 17 | ||||
| 18 |
★ K4
From the ledge, climb near the right arête to reach the base of the short crack. FA: Clive Curson, 1993 | 20 | ||||
| 19 |
★★ By Hook Or By Crook
The crack in the middle of the west face. You can also use some bolts on 'No Crack Crooking'. FA: Michael Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992 | 18 | ||||
| 20 |
★★ Tinkerbell
The crack towards the right of the west face. FA: Simon Larsen, 1993 | 13 | ||||
| 21 |
★ Pixie Dust
Immediately right, around the corner from 'Tinkerbell'. Climb grey rippled face. easier if you use the corner. FA: Simon Larsen, 1993 | 14 | ||||
| 22 |
★ Don't Do Dishes Or Rap With Pigs
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Marianne Pretorius, 2003 | 25 | ||||
| 23 |
Wishing For Fifty More Meters
Coming 20m down the gully, scramble up an arête low down, across the face to the base of a thin crack. Climb this to the top. FA: Marianne Pretorius & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003 | 16 | ||||
