Baboon Buttress All sport climbing
49 routes in cliff- 100% Sport
- Grades: SA
- Ascents: 24
- Aka: Backstage
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Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two
1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!
The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).
Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.
There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link
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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.
Approach
APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.
A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.
B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.
Almost UshieSurprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22.
FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007
Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.
FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006
Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.
From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007
Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.
FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004
From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007
Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007
Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.
FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007
Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.
FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007
Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.
FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007
Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.
FA: Mark Seuring, 2006
If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.
FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000
Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.
FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006
Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.
FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006
Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.
FA: Alard Hufner, 2007
Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top.
FA: Ken Thrash, 2008
Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.
FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008
Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.
FA: Ken Thrash, 2008
Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.
FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006
A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt.
FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010
Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.
FA: 2010
Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.
FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007
Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.
FA: Ken Thrash, 2008
Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.
FA: Ken Thrash, 2011
65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.
FA: Ken Thrash, 2011
Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey!
FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2010
Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.
Set by Andrew Pedley, 2008
FA: Sasha DiGiulian, 2013
Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!
FA: Alard Hufner
The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.
FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007
