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Description

The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

A. Access as for Baboon Buttress which rambles on for about 100 metres, keep walking along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning walls.

B. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. After a few minutes you will pass the Little Red Wall then the Disciple Wall.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
33 *** Rodan Sport 13

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

2
32 *** Godzilla Sport 14

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

3
29 *** Moster Sport 16

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2006

4
SA 31 *** The Beast Sport 16

Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

5
SA 33 *** Mutation Project Sport

Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. Power Endurance on top od endurance = hard and brilliant!

FA: Brian Weaver, 2012

6
SA 30 *** Space Caddet Sport

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

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Open project, an extension of Freak Show, through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. Bolted by Andrew Pedley.

8
SA 28 ** Freak Show Sport 12

Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

9
SA 30 ** The Juggernaut Sport 12

Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2009

10
SA 24 *** Freak On Sport 12

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

11
SA 27 * Chocolate Éclair Sport 4

A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2007

12

Climb Chocolate Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

FA: Daniel Gebel, 2009

13

Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above Lucky Cows, involves a Font 8A+ dyno..BB. Matt Bush October 2011.

14
SA 26 *** Dungeons and Dragons Sport 13

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2007

15
SA 30 *** Tokolosie Sport 14

Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

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Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie, or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

17
SA 25 ** Changing Gears Sport 12

This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.

FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

18
SA 29 ** Jack of All Trades Unknown 35m, 15

The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

19
SA 33 ** Jabberwocky Sport 14

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

20
SA 31 *** Vorpal Sword Sport 16

The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

21
SA 27 *** Hell Yea Sport 17

A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the „3rd crux‟ to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope

FA: Marc Efune, 2006

22
SA 24 ** Rock-Chuka-Chick Sport 17

Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 1999

23
SA 24 *** Big Bad Wolf Sport 40m, 16

10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

24
SA 28 * Burning Spear Sport 17

Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

FA: Marc Efune, 2009

25
SA 24 ** Alice in Grannyland Unknown 35m, 16

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters.

FA: Greg Watkins, 1998