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Description

The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres

Approach

A. Access as for Baboon Buttress which rambles on for about 100 metres, keep walking along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning walls.

B. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. After a few minutes you will pass the Little Red Wall then the Disciple Wall.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2006

Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. Power Endurance on top od endurance = hard and brilliant!

FA: Brian Weaver, 2012

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

Open project, an extension of Freak Show, through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. Bolted by Andrew Pedley.

Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2009

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2007

Climb Chocolate Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

FA: Daniel Gebel, 2009

Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above Lucky Cows, involves a Font 8A+ dyno..BB. Matt Bush October 2011.

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2007

Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie, or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.

FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the „3rd crux‟ to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope

FA: Marc Efune, 2006

Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 1999

10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

FA: Marc Efune, 2009

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters.

FA: Greg Watkins, 1998

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