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Table of contents

1. The Little Red Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.365661, -25.670841


This wall is dark red in colour and can be seen through the trees about 50 m up and right of the Disciple Wall. Some pretty cool climbs here and it‟s only 2 minutes from the God No! Wall.

HEIGHT: 15 - 20 Metres

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link


(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.


A. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo, in which case the first wall you will reach is the Little Red Wall.

B. Continue up right another 30 metres from the Disciple Wall (approach as for God No! Wall)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Grannie's Cottage / Digiridoo Project

This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.

FA: Matthew Murison, 1998

25 Sport 8
2 ** Little Red Riding Hood

A super little climb, a great first 24.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

25 Sport 9
3 ** The Loan Arranger

Just right of LRRH. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, 1992

25 Trad
4 * Him Speak With Forked Tongue

Trad line just right of THE LOAN ARRANGER.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998

23 Trad
5 ** Halongmaishlong

This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of LRRH.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

20 Sport 13

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
20 ** Halongmaishlong Sport 13
23 * Him Speak With Forked Tongue Trad
25 ** Grannie's Cottage Sport 8
** Little Red Riding Hood Sport 9
** The Loan Arranger Trad