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Description

Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs. Climbs are of relatively short stature but some are of excellent quality. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs; so before you bolt another line, consider if it is really necessary…

HEIGHT: 5 - 18 Metres

Approach

A. From the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliff line….Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) sign. Here, leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs.

B. From the Tranquilitas camping, take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right, towards the cliff line. Take this path and follow it this as described above.

C. To get to the right-hand end of the crag approach as above, pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres. The path curves leftward and at a cairn, a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path, which doubles back towards the south, past a wooden barrier and to a small gulley at the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South.

FA: D Margetts, A Margetts, E Margetts & T Margetts, 2002

The crack line.

FA: D Margetts & G Frost, 2003

Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left.

FA: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts & A. Grant, 2001

The desperate looking blank face.

FA: James Roberts, 2002

The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing.

FA: Albert Smit, 2000

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

Start in the corner up to a loose looking block.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2007

A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.

FA: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost & H. Pringle, 2001

Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of RP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

5m left of Bamboozled. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

10m left of DL. A fine route with an arete high up. Low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2006

Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

FA: E Margetts, D Margetts & A Margetts, 2010

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

about 5m left of WICKED.

FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson, 2000

Start on BONGOLEO, break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED.

FA: ustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

2 Metres right of "Wicked". Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent!

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

2m right of DK. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

FA: Alard Hufner, 1999

The obvious crack line just right of DP.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

Climb the recess, break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

Funky face climbing, then through an overlap.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

Left of the open book, railing out right on top.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter.

FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner, 2004

Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree.

FA: Dermot Brogan, 2000

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the M & M face.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & D. Chesney, 2000

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring, 1999

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2012

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

FA: Claire Keaton, 1999

Start about 1.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face

FA: Ken Thrash, 2010

Begins with a boulder problem following the crack 6 m right of Moon Dance.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2009

Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Goes up and to the left of the arete.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 1999

A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

Starts in the middle of the face about 2 metres left of CC. Trend leftwards to the arete and then follow break rightwards to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Start as for Doom, but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with DOOM.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Starts in the obvious corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

The bouldery face right of CFF.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002

Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2003

The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2004

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 2003

Start on the right of Banging Bridget on the flat holds. Traverse L into the seam and up, moving left into a crack then rightwards and over a rood and crack to finish.

FA: Robert Powell & Edna Calvo, 2011

Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock.

FA: Evan Margetts & Darryl Margetts

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad retrobolted

FA: J Sydow, Phil Lloyd & Ian Manson, 1992

Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.”

FA: P Lloyd, J Sydow & Ian Manson, 1992

Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop, 1992

Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.

FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999

This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH.

FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo, 2000

This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete.

FA: Janse van Rensburg, 2005

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2005

Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000

Just right of Gravy Train.

FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano, 2005

Climb the chimney crack on good pro.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2001

Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Just right of CLAREGATE.

FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough.

FA: Ken Thrash

A face climb staying right of the bolts.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000

Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2000

Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.

FA: G. Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.

FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot, 2000

Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards

FA: D Margetts & A Margetts, 2008

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt.

FA: D Margetts & A Margetts, 2009

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).

FA: Darryl Margetts & Evan Margetts, 2010

Right of the aboveS

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

5 meters to the right of the Ladder

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

Activity

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