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Description

Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs. Climbs are of relatively short stature but some are of excellent quality. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs; so before you bolt another line, consider if it is really necessary…

HEIGHT: 5 - 18 Metres

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

A. From the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliff line….Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) sign. Here, leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs.

B. From the Tranquilitas camping, take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right, towards the cliff line. Take this path and follow it this as described above.

C. To get to the right-hand end of the crag approach as above, pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres. The path curves leftward and at a cairn, a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path, which doubles back towards the south, past a wooden barrier and to a small gulley at the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 I R Baboon Sport 5

The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South.

FA: D Margetts, A Margetts, E Margetts & T Margetts, 2002

2

The crack line.

FA: D Margetts & G Frost, 2003

3
20 * Comfort Zone Sport 6

Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left.

FA: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts & A. Grant, 2001

4

The desperate looking blank face.

FA: James Roberts, 2002

5
24 * Hey Pappa Sport 5

The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing.

FA: Albert Smit, 2000

6
15 * Hamster Hotel Sport 6

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

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23 ** Two Cam Sam Trad

Start in the corner up to a loose looking block.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2007

8
20 ** Rat Pallace Sport 9

A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.

FA: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle, 2001

9
16 ** Last Hurrah Sport 7

Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of RP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

10

5m left of Bamboozled. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

11
15 * Man Slaves Sport 9

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

12
27 ** Bamboozled Sport 9

10m left of DL. A fine route with an arete high up. Low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

13

Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

14
33 *** Lab Rat Sport 10

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2006

15
23 ** Dexter's Lab Sport 12

Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

16
21 ** Cloud City Sport 10

Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts, 2010

17
15 * Smokey the Bear Sport 9

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

18
21 ** Bongoleo Sport 8

about 5m left of WICKED.

FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson, 2000

19
23 ** Ceasarian Sport 11

Start on BONGOLEO, break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED.

FA: ustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

20
26 *** Wicked Sport 10

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

21
26 * Drop Kicked Sport 9

2 Metres right of "Wicked". Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent!

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

22
19 *** Five Lives Left Sport 8

2m right of DK. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

23
26 ** Dutch Popcorn Sport 12

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

FA: Alard Hufner, 1999

24

The obvious crack line just right of DP.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

25
22 ** Searching Trad

Climb the recess, break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

26
22 ** Lion Hunt Sport 10

Funky face climbing, then through an overlap.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

27
21 * Shroom Hunter Sport 10

Left of the open book, railing out right on top.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

28
17 ** Hemp on the HIll Sport 11

Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter.

FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner, 2004

29

Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree.

FA: Dermot Brogan, 2000

30

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the M & M face.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & D. Chesney, 2000

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30 ** M&M Sport 7

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring, 1999

32

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

33

Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2012

34
20 * Moondance Sport 12

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

FA: Claire Keaton, 1999

35
25 ** Loch Ness Sport 7

Start about 1.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face

FA: Ken Thrash, 2010

36
27 ** Morse Code Trad

Begins with a boulder problem following the crack 6 m right of Moon Dance.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2009

37

Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

38

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

39
23 * Blood on the Rocks Sport 10

Goes up and to the left of the arete.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 1999

40

A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

41
15 * Chics for Free Sport 9

Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

42
19 * Doom Sport 10

Starts in the middle of the face about 2 metres left of CC. Trend leftwards to the arete and then follow break rightwards to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

43

Start as for Doom, but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with DOOM.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

44
16 * Cenotaph Corner Sport 9

Starts in the obvious corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

45

Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

46

Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

47
20 ** High Speed Dirt Sport 11

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

48
25 * Fat Annie Sport 6

The bouldery face right of CFF.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002

49
19 ** Slim JIm Sport 7

Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2003

50

The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2004

51
15 * Teacher's Pet Sport 8

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1999

52

Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 2003

53

Start on the right of Banging Bridget on the flat holds. Traverse L into the seam and up, moving left into a crack then rightwards and over a rood and crack to finish.

FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, 2011

54

Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

55
16 Zellweger Sport 9

Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

56
17 * The Pallbearer Sport 6

Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

57
13 Fisticuffs Sport 5

Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

58

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

59
16 *** Angel of Mercy Sport 8

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

60
21 ** Saint Gabriel Sport 6

Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock.

FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

61

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad retrobolted

FA: J Sydow, Phil Lloyd, Ian Manson, 1992

62

Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.”

FA: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson, 1992

63
25 * Witless Trad

Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop, 1992

64
25 ** Task Saturated Sport 8

Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

65

Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.

FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999

66
17 Reminiscing Sport 11

This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH.

FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo, 2000

67

This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

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25 * Champange on Ice Sport 9

Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete.

FA: Janse van Rensburg, 2005

69
21 ** Dead Ant Sport 10

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

70

This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

71
18 * Wood Pile Crack Sport 9

The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

72

Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2005

73
12 * Mountain Pursuit Sport 7

Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

74
15 ** Gravy Train Unknown 8

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000

75
19 ** Dead Gecko Sport 7

Just right of Gravy Train.

FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano, 2005

76
17 * B & B Trad

Climb the chimney crack on good pro.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2001

77
18 ** Captain Hook Sport 12

Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 2000

78
17 * The Claregate Sport 12

Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

79

Just right of CLAREGATE.

FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999

80

Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough.

FA: Ken Thrash

81

A face climb staying right of the bolts.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

82
14 * Forest Glump Sport 10

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000

83

Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2000

84
16 Mission from Glod Sport 11

Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

85
16 * Sand Glod Sport 12

This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

86
28 ** Panty-Slapped Sport 8

The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

87

Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.

FA: G. Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

88

Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.

FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot, 2000

89
16 ** Clockwork Orange Sport 9

Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2008

90

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt.

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2009

91
15 * Rocky's Sport 10

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

92
21 * Iron Lotus Sport 8

Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).

FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts, 2010

93
14 * The Ladder Sport

Right of the aboveS

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

94
9 * Fadja's Revenge Sport 5

5 meters to the right of the Ladder

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

95
96
97
22 Mike Behr's Route Unknown