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Description

One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 27 ** Kimchi Sport 11

Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.

FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007

2

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005

3
UIAA 25 ** Coach Sport 12

Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011

4
SA 33 ** Frazzle Sport 15

The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

FA: Paul Brouard, 2000

5
SA 29 *** Snapdragon Sport 30m, 13

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992

6
SA 31 * Hack and Slay Sport 30m, 16

Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

FA: Richard Lord, 1994

7
SA 22 Project Unknown

Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers

8
SA 27 ** Giants Sport 12

Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

9
SA 26 *** Karfoefeling Sport 13

Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

10
SA 28 *** Loslappie Link-Up Sport 15

The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

FA: Wesley Black, 2010

11
SA 32 *** Welcome to Ovamboland Sport 15

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

12
SA 24 *** Rude Bushmen Sport 15

This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

13
SA 25 * Normal Hard Daddy Sport 10

Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007

14
SA 27 *** Lotter's Desire Sport 11

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

15
SA 30 *** Hypertension Sport 13

A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005

16
SA 27 ** Tugela Blue Sport 12

This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

17
SA 26 ** Out of a Limb Sport 10

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

FA: Mark Millar, 2006

18
SA 25 ** Soul Mandate Sport 11

Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

19
SA 23 * Miss Mckinley Sport 9

30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

20
SA 26 * The Doomsday Device Sport 13

Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012

21
SA 32 ** Strata Sport 14

Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.

FA: Paul Brouard, 2001

22
SA 27 ** Tripolactic Fairytales Sport 10

Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....

FA: Will Watkins, 1998

23
SA 12 * Beehive Sport 15

Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996

24
SA 20 * Tree House Sport 14

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996

25

Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

26
SA 27 ** Hallucigenic Toreador Sport 13

Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: C Nicole, 1997

27
SA 22 * Brain Damaged Sport 12

Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006

28
SA 22 * Sleepless Tad Sport 5

About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992

29

Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.

FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999

30
SA 23 * Le Sketch Sport 11

The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003

31
SA 21 * Glen Sport 15

Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

32
SA 21 * Into the Black Sport 15

Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

33
SA 21 ** Precision Feather Sport 12

A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

34
SA 20 * Almost My Balls Sport 14

The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

35
SA 17 * Penny Royal Tee Sport 14

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face

FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996

36
SA 20 * Teen Spirit Sport 14

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999