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Table of contents

1. The Superbowl 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364117, -25.666317

Description:

One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Kimchi

Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.

FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007

27Sport 11
2 *** Doug in the Yellow House

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005

26Sport 13
3 ** Coach

Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011

25Sport 12
4 ** Frazzle

The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

FA: Paul Brouard, 2000

33Sport 15
5 *** Snapdragon

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992

29Sport 30m, 13
6 * Hack and Slay

Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

FA: Richard Lord, 1994

31Sport 30m, 16
7 Project

Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers

22Unknown
8 ** Giants

Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27Sport 12
9 *** Karfoefeling

Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

26Sport 13
10 *** Loslappie Link-Up

The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

FA: Wesley Black, 2010

28Sport 15
11 *** Welcome to Ovamboland

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

32Sport 15
12 *** Rude Bushmen

This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

24Sport 15
13 * Normal Hard Daddy

Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007

25Sport 10
14 *** Lotter's Desire

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

27Sport 11
15 *** Hypertension

A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005

30Sport 13
16 ** Tugela Blue

This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

27Sport 12
17 ** Out of a Limb

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

FA: Mark Millar, 2006

26Sport 10
18 ** Soul Mandate

Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

25Sport 11
19 * Miss Mckinley

30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

23Sport 9
20 * The Doomsday Device

Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012

26Sport 13
21 ** Strata

Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.

FA: Paul Brouard, 2001

32Sport 14
22 ** Tripolactic Fairytales

Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....

FA: Will Watkins, 1998

27Sport 10
23 * Beehive

Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996

12Sport 15
24 * Tree House

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996

20Sport 14
25 * Paradise By the C / Paradise By the Sea

Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

27Sport 10
26 ** Hallucigenic Toreador

Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: C Nicole, 1997

27Sport 13
27 * Brain Damaged

Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006

22Sport 12
28 * Sleepless Tad

About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992

22Sport 5
29 ** Club Tropicana Coconuts

Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.

FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999

24Sport 9
30 * Le Sketch

The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003

23Sport 11
31 * Glen

Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
32 * Into the Black

Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
33 ** Precision Feather

A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

21Sport 12
34 * Almost My Balls

The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

20Sport 14
35 * Penny Royal Tee

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face

FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996

17Sport 14
36 * Teen Spirit

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999

20Sport 14

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 * Beehive Sport 15
17 * Penny Royal Tee Sport 14
20 * Almost My Balls Sport 14
* Teen Spirit Sport 14
* Tree House Sport 14
21 * Glen Sport 15
* Into the Black Sport 15
** Precision Feather Sport 12
22 * Brain Damaged Sport 12
Project Unknown
* Sleepless Tad Sport 5
23 * Le Sketch Sport 11
* Miss Mckinley Sport 9
24 ** Club Tropicana Coconuts Sport 9
*** Rude Bushmen Sport 15
25 * Normal Hard Daddy Sport 10
** Soul Mandate Sport 11
26 *** Doug in the Yellow House Sport 13
*** Karfoefeling Sport 13
** Out of a Limb Sport 10
* The Doomsday Device Sport 13
25 ** Coach Sport 12
27 ** Giants Sport 12
** Hallucigenic Toreador Sport 13
** Kimchi Sport 11
*** Lotter's Desire Sport 11
* Paradise By the C Sport 10
** Tripolactic Fairytales Sport 10
** Tugela Blue Sport 12
28 *** Loslappie Link-Up Sport 15
29 *** Snapdragon Sport 30m, 13
30 *** Hypertension Sport 13
31 * Hack and Slay Sport 30m, 16
32 ** Strata Sport 14
*** Welcome to Ovamboland Sport 15
33 ** Frazzle Sport 15