A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 30.364117, -25.666317
- Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven
Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two
1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!
The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).
Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.
There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link
(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.
A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.
B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.
Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.
FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007
Doug in the Yellow House
Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!
FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011
The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?
FA: Paul Brouard, 2000
SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.
FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992
Hack and Slay
Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.
FA: Richard Lord, 1994
Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers
Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...
FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993
Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004
The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!
FA: Wesley Black, 2010
Welcome to Ovamboland
Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.
FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010
This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.
FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998
Normal Hard Daddy
Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.
FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007
The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.
FA: Richard Lord, 1993
A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..
FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005
This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.
FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998
Out of a Limb
Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…
FA: Mark Millar, 2006
Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above
FA: Mark Millar, 2004
30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.
FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998
The Doomsday Device
Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012
Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.
FA: Paul Brouard, 2001
Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....
FA: Will Watkins, 1998
Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.
FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996
Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.
FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996
Paradise By the C / Paradise By the Sea
Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.
FA: Mark Seuring, 1999
Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.
FA: C Nicole, 1997
Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.
FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006
About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.
FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992
Club Tropicana Coconuts
Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.
FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999
The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!
FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003
FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998
Into the Black
Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt
FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998
A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.
FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998
Almost My Balls
The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!
FA: Barry Crouse
Penny Royal Tee
A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face
FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996
The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.
FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999
|17||Penny Royal Tee||14|
|20||Almost My Balls||14|
|Into the Black||15|
|24||Club Tropicana Coconuts||9|
|25||Normal Hard Daddy||10|
|26||Doug in the Yellow House||13|
|Out of a Limb||10|
|The Doomsday Device||13|
|Paradise By the C||10|
|31||Hack and Slay||1630m,|
|Welcome to Ovamboland||15|