A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Branden Marc dM Cormac Tooze Lilja Lakic Klinger Paddy McCann Wojjy Heidixe Rochelle-Mari Smith Constantine Dritsas
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Table of contents
- 1. The Left Wings 20 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Left Wings 20 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -25.664649, 30.363872
description
For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.
access issues
Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.
approach
A. From 'The Superbowl', walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gully that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50m or so the climbs are reached.
B. Approach as for the right-hand end of 'The Superbowl', down the gully, then keep left and after 50m or so the climbs are reached.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Why
Climbs the easy break left of 'Herman the German' up to a tree. FA: Clive Curson, 1993 | 20 | ||||
2 |
★ Herman the German
Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall. FA: Adam, 1994 | 26 | 10 | |||
3 |
★★ Skelmpoes
Climb the arête but mostly stay on the pretty face right of 'Herman the German'. Avoid fondling the jugs of the neighbour around the corner and enjoy the secret crack! Set: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2019 FA: Tony dos Ramos, 2019 | 22 | 8 | |||
4 |
Herman's Route
Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors. FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992 | 24 | 5 | |||
5 |
★★ Green Machine
Start up the crack near the arête left of 'True Blue'. A puzzling crux leads to an easier slab. Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 2018 | 18 | ||||
6 |
★ True Blue
Takes the red corner left of 'Wysiwyg', about 25-30m right of the descent gully. Route has been retro-bolted - see "Wysiwyg" description. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992 Set: 2018 | 16 | 12 | |||
7 |
★★ Red Under the Bed
The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: 2018 | 9 | 12 | |||
8 |
★★ Mellow Yellow
The face just left of the 'Wysiwyg' corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up. Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: Clive Curson, 2018 | 10 | 10 | |||
9 |
★ Wysiwyg
Climbs the obvious corner to the left of the large stacked roofs, 5m right of 'True Blue'. Watch the blocks near the top. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992 Set: Clive Curson, 2018 | 12 | 11 | |||
10 |
★★ Chacma
Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018 | 23 | 13 | |||
11 |
★★ Chunky Monkey
The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy! FA: Mark Seuring, 1998 | 27 | 9 | |||
12 |
★★ Hounds Mousse
Through the groove 8m right of 'Chunky Monkey'. FA: Axel Wachter, 2000 | 25 | 11 | |||
13 |
★ New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch
This route takes the next arête right of 'Chunky Monkey'. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning. FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000 | 18 | 10 | |||
14 |
★★★ Lo and Behold
Starts between two trees. Climb 5m right of 'New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch', at a fig tree. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a run-out. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! Anchors are 2 large glue ins without chains, large enough to fit easily rope and biners. FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018 | 19 | 12 | |||
15 |
★ Home Alone
Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992 | 19 | ||||
16 |
★★★ Puppet on a String
About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991 | 19 | ||||
17 |
★★ Through The Looking Glass
The shallow corner. Route has been retro-bolted - see 'Wysiwyg' description. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991 Set: Clive Curson, 2018 | 19 | 11 | |||
18 |
★ Balrog
The line left of 'Transmogrifier'. FA: Tessa Little, 2001 | 25 | 9 | |||
19 |
★★ Transmogrifier
Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb FA: Mark Seuring, 2001 | 26 | 9 | |||
20 |
★ Uiters Tors
Trad route between 'Transmogrifier' & 'Endless October'. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992 | 21 PROT:R |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | ★★ | Red Under the Bed | 12 | ||
10 | ★★ | Mellow Yellow | 10 | ||
12 | ★ | Wysiwyg | 11 | ||
16 | ★ | True Blue | 12 | ||
18 | ★★ | Green Machine | |||
★ | New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch | 10 | |||
19 | ★ | Home Alone | |||
★★★ | Lo and Behold | 12 | |||
★★★ | Puppet on a String | ||||
★★ | Through The Looking Glass | 11 | |||
20 | ★ | Why | |||
21 R | ★ | Uiters Tors | |||
22 | ★★ | Skelmpoes | 8 | ||
23 | ★★ | Chacma | 13 | ||
24 | Herman's Route | 5 | |||
25 | ★ | Balrog | 9 | ||
★★ | Hounds Mousse | 11 | |||
26 | ★ | Herman the German | 10 | ||
★★ | Transmogrifier | 9 | |||
27 | ★★ | Chunky Monkey | 9 |