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Table of contents

1. The Left Wings 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.363856, -25.664677

Description:

For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

A. From the Superbowl, walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gulley that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of the Superbowl, down the gulley, then keep left and after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Why

Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

20Trad
2 * Herman the German

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

FA: Adam, 1994

26Sport 10
3 Herman's Route

Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.

FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992

24Sport 5
4 * True Blue

Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

16Trad
5 * Wysiwyg

Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

12Trad
6 ** Chunky Monkey

The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy!

FA: FA: Mark Seuring, 1998

27Sport 9
7 ** Hounds Mousse

Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey.

FA: Axel Wachter, 2000

25Sport 11
8 * New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch

This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

18Sport 10
9 * Home Alone

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

19Trad
10 ** Puppet on a String

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
11 * Through the Looking Glass

The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG‟s description.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
12 * Balrog

The line left of Transmogrifier

FA: Tessa Little, 2001

25Sport 9
13 Transmogrifier

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

FA: Mark Seuring, 2001

26Sport 9
14 * Uiters Tors

Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

FA: tewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992

21Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 * Wysiwyg Trad
16 * True Blue Trad
18 * New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch Sport 10
19 * Home Alone Trad
** Puppet on a String Trad
* Through the Looking Glass Trad
20 * Why Trad
21 * Uiters Tors Trad
24 Herman's Route Sport 5
25 * Balrog Sport 9
** Hounds Mousse Sport 11
26 * Herman the German Sport 10
Transmogrifier Sport 9
27 ** Chunky Monkey Sport 9