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Description

Has anybody been back since 1992?! If you are looking for some hidden gems go there! The path was recently cleared out by Pedley and Weaver.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

Walk on and around the corner from the Theatre.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * Star Gazers Trad

Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left. Apparently hard to find placements for the belay at the top.

FA: Russ Dodding, M Erens & G Erens, 1992

2

Climbs the corner to the left of Damn the Torpedoes. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Chris Lomax & Richard Lord, 1992

3

Climb the „‟Indian Creek‟‟ type corner 20m left of Joy Division, left of a very steep leaning wall (Tectonic Wall).. The bolt can be seen from the ground. Great climbing with a single stopper crux.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

4
31 Paul's Project Unknown

Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of Joy Division. Ask Paul Bouard if you can open it.

5
30 ** Joy Division Sport 12

The rough textured blank wall. Climb slightly rightwards with difficulty up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top. Originally graded 29. Totally impossible if you are short..go on, prove me wrong!

FA: Richard Lord, 1992