Tranquilitas Cliff guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Branden Donald Conor Brogan Jacques Booysen Samantha Stainton Kaz

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1. Tranquilitas 58 in Cliff
- 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 in Area
- 1.2. THE CRECHE 8 in Area
- 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 in Area
- 1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 in Area
- 1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 in Area
- 1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

3 GOOD AND EVIL AREA

seasonality

Summary:: Sport,Trad and Top Rope
Long/Lat: 30.367201, -25.674793
Description:: Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.
Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven: Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.
Approach:: From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad
Description:: At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	When You Need It Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003	17	Trad
2	Als Bells The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer. FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003	19	Trad
3	Respect for the big Guy Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face. FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003	19	Trad
4	Soft Sabie Mark Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG. FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003	22	Trad
5	Quack-Quack Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM. FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003	17	Trad
6	Squeeze your Balls The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ. FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003	17	Trad
7	Omte Pee Om te Poep Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above. FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003	18	Trad
8	The Huffing Warthog The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	23	Trad

1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Milou Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007	9	Sport 8
2	Crouching Tiger Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	12	Sport 10
3	Mel Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	11	Sport 8
4	Me Tarzan, You Jane Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	16	Sport 9
5	Jackie Chan Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	14	Sport 9
6	Consistency is Fasion Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	17	Sport 10
7	Feel Good Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008	14	Sport 7
8	Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007	19	Sport 10

1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Long/Lat: 30.369028, -25.675028
Description:: The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	I.M.O. Julius Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney. FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	15	Trad
2	Ceaser Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system. FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	16	Trad
3	Woodchoppers and Waterbearers Climb up the right arete. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof. FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 10
4	Yellow Polka Dot A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow-dotted headwall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	25	Sport 11
5	Who's Line is it Anyway Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb. FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 2003	23	Sport 9
6	Good and Evil The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Voytek Modrzewski, 2003	23	Sport 9
7	Wasp Warriors Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003	27	Sport 8
8	Cool Runnings The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner. FA: Sarel Smit, 2003	24	Sport 10
9	Aapstreke The obvious chimney right of CR. FA: Abert Smit, Sarel Smit, Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies, 2003	15	Trad	Jacques Booysen 5 years ago Nice Chimney, Crux felt harder than a 15, couldn't finish.
10	Walking on Sunshine Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	20	Trad

1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Nitro's Tick Fever Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Neil Margetts, 2009	25	Sport 10
2	Lost in Translation Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar, 2004	23	Sport 14
3	Atlantis A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004	26	Sport 11
4	Eldorado One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004	28	Sport 11
5	Inca Trail A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	27	Sport 11
6	S.W.A.T. Team A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003	24	Sport 10
7	Fever Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009	29	Sport 10
8	Peaceful Sleep This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains. FA: Gary Lowther, 2003	21	Sport 11
9	The Beeman and the Bushman Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003	25	Sport 11
10	Beat Them Dead Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	23	Sport 13
11	Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 11
12	Malaria 5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 12
13	There is Treasure Everywhere Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up. FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003	20	Trad
14	Alex's Mousse au Chocolat Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	17	Sport 13	Donald 5 months ago Stunning exposure on this route.
15	Evelyn Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	18	Sport 12
16	Balance of Power Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007	22	Sport 8
17	Roc Rally A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006	21	Sport 9

1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	FUG New route well indicated on the rock. FA: G Frost and D Margetts,	22	Sport
2	Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury, 2007	22	Sport 10
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	Endless Blowjob The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: G Frost and D Margetts,	18	Sport 12
4	Little Bonsai Just left to the recess where Chimneying Tammy is. A wonderful route for its grade. FA: G Frost and D Margetts, 2003	16	Sport 20m , 12		Donald 6 months ago Magnificent climb at an easily accessible grade. Beautiful view from halfway up to the top.
5	Chimneying Tammy Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains. FA: Gary Lowther, 2003	15	Sport 7		Kaz 1 years ago A good first chimney. Jacques Booysen 5 years ago Awesome Chimney
6	Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 9
7	Diseased Mad Cow Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	22	Sport 11
8	Grunt The obvious roof crack with easier headwall. FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo, 2002	24	Trad
9	I Feel Rocks Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson, 2003	24	Sport 8
10	Up Your Tree Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003	20	Sport 9
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
11	Biogalactic Gobbleblaster Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains. FA: Rory Lowther, 2003	20	Sport 20m , 8
12	Caviars Whiskers Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right. FA: Fabrice Blaise, 2000	17	Sport 9

1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard bouldery climbs.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Pit Fighter Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009	31	Sport 6
2	Stitch it Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008	29	Sport 6
3	Rubik's Cube Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008	28	Sport 6

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Pit Fighter

Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

Sport 6

Stitch it

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

Sport 6

Rubik's Cube

Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

Sport 6

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
9	Milou	Sport 8	1.2. THE CRECHE
11	Mel	Sport 8	1.2. THE CRECHE
12	Crouching Tiger	Sport 10	1.2. THE CRECHE
14	Feel Good	Sport 7	1.2. THE CRECHE
	Jackie Chan	Sport 9	1.2. THE CRECHE
15	Aapstreke	Trad	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	I.M.O. Julius	Trad	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Chimneying Tammy	Sport 7	1.5. GRUNT AREA
16	Me Tarzan, You Jane	Sport 9	1.2. THE CRECHE
	Little Bonsai	Sport 20m , 12	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Ceaser	Trad	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
17	Quack-Quack	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Squeeze your Balls	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	When You Need It	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Consistency is Fasion	Sport 10	1.2. THE CRECHE
	Alex's Mousse au Chocolat	Sport 13	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Caviars Whiskers	Sport 9	1.5. GRUNT AREA
18	Omte Pee Om te Poep	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Evelyn	Sport 12	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Endless Blowjob	Sport 12	1.5. GRUNT AREA
19	Als Bells	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Respect for the big Guy	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky	Sport 10	1.2. THE CRECHE
20	Walking on Sunshine	Trad	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	There is Treasure Everywhere	Trad	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Biogalactic Gobbleblaster	Sport 20m , 8	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Up Your Tree	Sport 9	1.5. GRUNT AREA
21	Peaceful Sleep	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Roc Rally	Sport 9	1.4. MALARIA AREA
22	Soft Sabie Mark	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
	Woodchoppers and Waterbearers	Sport 10	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Balance of Power	Sport 8	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Malaria	Sport 12	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer	Sport 10	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Diseased Mad Cow	Sport 11	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	FUG	Sport	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro	Sport 9	1.5. GRUNT AREA
23	Good and Evil	Sport 9	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Who's Line is it Anyway	Sport 9	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Beat Them Dead	Sport 13	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Lost in Translation	Sport 14	1.4. MALARIA AREA
24	Cool Runnings	Sport 10	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	S.W.A.T. Team	Sport 10	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Grunt	Trad	1.5. GRUNT AREA
	I Feel Rocks	Sport 8	1.5. GRUNT AREA
23	The Huffing Warthog	Trad	1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
25	Yellow Polka Dot	Sport 11	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Nitro's Tick Fever	Sport 10	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	The Beeman and the Bushman	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
26	Atlantis	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
27	Wasp Warriors	Sport 8	1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
	Inca Trail	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
28	Eldorado	Sport 11	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Rubik's Cube	Sport 6	1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
29	Fever	Sport 10	1.4. MALARIA AREA
	Stitch it	Sport 6	1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
31	Pit Fighter	Sport 6	1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER

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Cliff Guide for Tranquilitas

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Table of contents

1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

2. Index by grade