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Table of contents

1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.367058, -25.674786

Description:

Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * When You Need It

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003

17Trad
2 *** Als Bells

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

19Trad
3 ** Respect for the big Guy

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003

19Trad
4 ** Soft Sabie Mark

Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

22Trad
5 * Quack-Quack

Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM.

FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

17Trad
6 * Squeeze your Balls

The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003

17Trad
7 * Omte Pee Om te Poep

Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

18Trad
8 ** The Huffing Warthog

The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

23Trad

1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Milou

Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

9Sport 8
2 ** Crouching Tiger

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

12Sport 10
3 *** Mel

Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

11Sport 8
4 *** Me Tarzan, You Jane

Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up.

FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

16Sport 9
5 ** Jackie Chan

Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

14Sport 9
6 ** Consistency is Fasion

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

17Sport 10
7 ** Feel Good

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

14Sport 7
8 *** Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007

19Sport 10

1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.369028, -25.675028

Description:

The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * I.M.O. Julius

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

15Trad
2 ** Ceaser

Climb the fun chimney left of WAW and discover the cave system.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

16Trad
3 ** Woodchoppers and Waterbearers

Climb up the right arete. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

FA: Rory Lowther (BB) Chris Rudolph & Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 10
4 *** Yellow Polka Dot

A rather loose few meters (careful) of easy climbing leads to an appealing yellow-dotted headwall. Fun climbing becomes technical higher up.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

25Sport 11
5 *** Who's Line is it Anyway

Starts 8 m left of the Good and Evil arête and diagonally up right. Lead-out but safe. A great climb.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

23Sport 9
6 ** Good and Evil

The obvious arête on the big blocky buttress to the left of the highest section of the crag when looking from the farmhouse parking. Stay left of the 5th bolt that was placed out there due to hollow sounding rock on the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Voytek Modrzewski, 2003

23Sport 9
7 ** Wasp Warriors

Climb diagonally right up the middle of the obvious west facing face.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

27Sport 8
8 ** Cool Runnings

The arete left of the prominent crack in the corner.

FA: Sarel Smit, 2003

24Sport 10
9 * Aapstreke

The obvious chimney right of CR.

FA: Abert Smit, Sarel Smit, Wikus Spies & Lohan Spies, 2003

15Trad
10 ** Walking on Sunshine

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

20Trad

1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nitro's Tick Fever

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2009

25Sport 10
2 * Lost in Translation

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

23Sport 14
3 ** Atlantis

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

26Sport 11
4 *** Eldorado

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

28Sport 11
5 ** Inca Trail

A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

27Sport 11
6 ** S.W.A.T. Team

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003

24Sport 10
7 * Fever

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009

29Sport 10
8 ** Peaceful Sleep

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

21Sport 11
9 ** The Beeman and the Bushman

Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

25Sport 11
10 ** Beat Them Dead

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

23Sport 13
11 ** Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg

Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 11
12 ** Malaria

5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 12
13 *** There is Treasure Everywhere

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

20Trad
14 *** Alex's Mousse au Chocolat

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

17Sport 13
15 ** Evelyn

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

18Sport 12
16 ** Balance of Power

Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

22Sport 8
17 ** Roc Rally

A short route 20m left of FUG.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

21Sport 9

1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** FUG

New route well indicated on the rock.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

22Sport
2 ** Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer

One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough!

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury, 2007

22Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 *** Endless Blowjob

The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

18Sport 12
4 ** Little Bonsai

Just left to the recess where Chimneying Tammy is. A wonderful route for its grade.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts, 2003

16Sport 20m, 12
5 * Chimneying Tammy

Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

15Sport 7
6 ** Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro

Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 9
7 ** Diseased Mad Cow

Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

22Sport 11
8 * Grunt

The obvious roof crack with easier headwall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo, 2002

24Trad
9 * I Feel Rocks

Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2003

24Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Up Your Tree

Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

20Sport 9
11 ** Biogalactic Gobbleblaster

Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

20Sport 20m, 8
12 ** Caviars Whiskers

Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right.

FA: Fabrice Blaise, 2000

17Sport 9

1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365803, -25.674474

Description:

The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard bouldery climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Pit Fighter

Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. A power test-piece.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

31Sport 6
2 ** Stitch it

Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

29Sport 6
3 Rubik's Cube

Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008

28Sport 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 ** Milou Sport 8 1.2. THE CRECHE
11 *** Mel Sport 8 1.2. THE CRECHE
12 ** Crouching Tiger Sport 10 1.2. THE CRECHE
14 ** Feel Good Sport 7 1.2. THE CRECHE
** Jackie Chan Sport 9 1.2. THE CRECHE
15 * Aapstreke Trad 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* I.M.O. Julius Trad 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* Chimneying Tammy Sport 7 1.5. GRUNT AREA
16 *** Me Tarzan, You Jane Sport 9 1.2. THE CRECHE
** Little Bonsai Sport 20m, 12 1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Ceaser Trad 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
17 * Quack-Quack Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
* Squeeze your Balls Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
* When You Need It Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Consistency is Fasion Sport 10 1.2. THE CRECHE
*** Alex's Mousse au Chocolat Sport 13 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Caviars Whiskers Sport 9 1.5. GRUNT AREA
18 * Omte Pee Om te Poep Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Evelyn Sport 12 1.4. MALARIA AREA
*** Endless Blowjob Sport 12 1.5. GRUNT AREA
19 *** Als Bells Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Respect for the big Guy Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
*** Excuse Me, While I Kiss the Sky Sport 10 1.2. THE CRECHE
20 ** Walking on Sunshine Trad 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
*** There is Treasure Everywhere Trad 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Biogalactic Gobbleblaster Sport 20m, 8 1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Up Your Tree Sport 9 1.5. GRUNT AREA
21 ** Peaceful Sleep Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Roc Rally Sport 9 1.4. MALARIA AREA
22 ** Soft Sabie Mark Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
** Woodchoppers and Waterbearers Sport 10 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Balance of Power Sport 8 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Malaria Sport 12 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Six Dead Mosquitos on my Leg Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Beauty is in the Eye of the Belayer Sport 10 1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Diseased Mad Cow Sport 11 1.5. GRUNT AREA
** FUG Sport 1.5. GRUNT AREA
** Goats Milk Gives Me Gastro Sport 9 1.5. GRUNT AREA
23 ** Good and Evil Sport 9 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
*** Who's Line is it Anyway Sport 9 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Beat Them Dead Sport 13 1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Lost in Translation Sport 14 1.4. MALARIA AREA
24 ** Cool Runnings Sport 10 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** S.W.A.T. Team Sport 10 1.4. MALARIA AREA
* Grunt Trad 1.5. GRUNT AREA
* I Feel Rocks Sport 8 1.5. GRUNT AREA
23 ** The Huffing Warthog Trad 1.1. ALS BELLS AREA
25 *** Yellow Polka Dot Sport 11 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
* Nitro's Tick Fever Sport 10 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** The Beeman and the Bushman Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
26 ** Atlantis Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
27 ** Wasp Warriors Sport 8 1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA
** Inca Trail Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
28 *** Eldorado Sport 11 1.4. MALARIA AREA
Rubik's Cube Sport 6 1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
29 * Fever Sport 10 1.4. MALARIA AREA
** Stitch it Sport 6 1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER
31 *** Pit Fighter Sport 6 1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER