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Description

This recently developed crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the right end of Hallucinogen wall.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 17 * Zooter Sport 9

Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains

FA: D Margetts, 2008

2
SA 17 * Golden Pie Sport 7

Climb layback crack

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

3
SA 19 ** Brunch Sport 8

The best route at the crag, climbs a blunt arête feature. Step left at the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2010

4
SA 15 * Chicken Wing Sport 8

Climb short face and arete

FA: D Margetts K Thrash, 2008

5
SA 12 * Spare Rib Sport 7

Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing

FA: D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts

6
SA 15 * Crack Up Sport 5

Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts