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Description:

This crag did not make the front cover of Rotpunkt for nothing, one of Boven‟s best. The clean leaning orange faces host some incredible routes, especially in the 20‟s. Jambo and Bonar to name just a couple.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left, before the road becomes a gravel road. Drive in past the entrance gate and explain that you are a climber. At the time of writing the climbers could enter for free. Please respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors. Stop in for a beer or a meal at the Restaurant, the original Restaurant at the End of the Universe! The pizzas are huge and the deck has amazing views of the Triple Tier crags. Park anywhere out of the way. Don‟t leave valuables in the car. On foot, pass the swimming pools, heading right towards the cliffs past a warning sign (steep cliffs etc.). Just before reaching the viewpoint from the (Gaper) buttress, turn sharp right and after 20 metres the path forks. Go left and down steeply through trees over some slippery rocks. The crag can also be accessed from the left end by walking past the School sector.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Purple Droll

Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Climb up to a tree and into a chimney.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21
Trad
2 * Attack of the Killer Tree

The route to the left of the dead tree.

FA: Chris Wynn, 1997

17
Sport 10
3 * Not the Nine O'Clock News

This climb used to start up a tree which has fallen away. The start is probably considerably trickier now and may a bolt or two.

FA: Mike Behr, 1997

22
Sport 11
4 ** Mostly Harmless

Solid at the grade! Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27
Unknown 8
5 ** Eraserhead

Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt, then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right. Low in the grade.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

28
Sport 10
6 * Blockbuster

Starts just right of ERASERHEAD. Can have lot of wasps nests!

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

25
Sport
7 * The Playpen

Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

26
Sport 10
8 ** Jambo

Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. Then take the left break up to anchors. One of best routes in Boven.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

25
Sport 13
9 ** Flambeau

Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO, then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall…

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

23
Sport 12
10 * Limbo Direct

Direct start past a bolt to lunge for the branch.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

21
Sport 12
11 * Limbo

Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO, walk left along the limb, then up the wall to chains. Great climbing - after the tree.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

20
Sport 11
12 ** Jigaboo

An excellent line, so much fun.

FA: Matt Murison & Alard Hüfner, 1997

24
Sport 8
13 ** World's Apart

A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Lobster himself. One of the first routes here.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1991

26
Sport 9
14 * Looking for the Lobster

About 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack. Keep to the left through the tree to reach good climbing up the crack and face above.

FA: Clive Curson & Mike Bruncke, 1993

21
Sport 12
15 * Access Route to Gretchen Et Al / To Gretchen Et Al

Climb up 7 bolts on a line just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance. The next 4 routes can be done from this large ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

15
Sport 9
16 * Red Harvest

3m right of LFTL, starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Can be climbed from the bottom, go right around the tree.

FA: Clive Curson & Fran Botha, 1993

19
Sport 8
17 * Jungle Uncle

Climbs the shallow corner to the left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20
Trad
18 * Gretchen Goes to Nebraska

From the belay bolts on the large ledge, climb the face route left of the obvious corner.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

21
Sport 8
19 ** Amazon Aunt

Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen, on the same ledge. Great climb to practice trad leading.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

17
Sport 10
20 * Out Through the in Door

Up the ACCESS ROUTE TO GRETCHEN ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

22
Sport 13
21 * In Through the Out Door

Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA, on the face left of the arete. Dicey gear, mostly small wires.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21
Trad
22 ** Bonar

Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Long and pumpy.

FA: arryl Margetts & Bernie Schumacher, 1993

20
Sport 14
23 Mjs

A hardish move through the groove near the ground.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1993

18
Sport 11
24 * G.P. Le Chuck

Starts as for RED HERRING, then goes left after the first bolt. Somewhat contrived finishing crux.

FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1991

21
Sport 9
25 ** Red Herring

fine climb up the middle of the face.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

20
Sport 25m , 9
26 * Faraday's Cage

Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING, up the right side of the face. Recently rebolted by Darryl

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine,, 1993

17
Sport 10
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