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Description

The obvious buttress down and right past the swimming pools at Elandskrans. Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24‟s and 27 in Boven. When the campsite is busy, the top of this crag can be popular with gapers (tourists), hence the name.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto the top of the buttress.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 ** Atomic Aardvark Sport 16

A hallowed classic. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. Can skip some of the bolts, especially at the start to reduce drag.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

2
27 ** The Gift Sport 9

WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality, possibly best 27 in Boven. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

3
30 * The Fix Sport 9

Starts from a stance 8 metres up. Rap down to the first bolt. One of the harder excrutiatingly technical climbs around. Was opened at 29.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

4
24 * Achtung Baby Sport 8

Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1992

5
23 * Zoo Station Sport 8

2m right of ACHTUNG BABY.

FA: Ian Manson, Mike Cartwright, 1992

6
21 * L'il Arete Number Sport 6

About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

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23 * First Dimension Sport 6

Belay at LAN's first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use LAN's lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993