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Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


The easiest trail is the one coming in from Easter Face. Alternatively just keep walking right and uphill from the base of the Gaper Buttress.



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Grade Route

8m right of FIRST DIMENSION. Short and bouldery, not a giveaway.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

The leftmost route on the face near the corner. Reachy.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Step off the right edge of the ledge - climb the face to the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

Start 2m right of the ledge.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE, then break up left past two bolts and a #3.5 friend placement.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

Climb the seam on the right (wires), then up the wall above past two bolts.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Gets easier after a few moves.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

Start below the triangular corner. Trend slightly left towards the top.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992


Check out what is happening in The Gaper Face.