Site navigation

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Description

What a weird but cool place, a collection of pinnacles and chasms, you have to climb here at least once.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

As you arrive at the top of the Island, head northwest for 100 metres until you reach the corner overlooking the highway; you will see some deep dark chasms and pillars. Standing above the chasms, facing out, on the left is an open bushy gulley. Walk down this easily. Halfway down on the right is a nice ledge (Shiver Me Timbers etc are here). To get to the rest of the climbs, continue down the gulley and across a rocky slope, on the right you will see an obvious cleft/chasm with a huge chockstone. Walk up this chasm and you will arrive facing Guys Slab.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Mike Loewe, 1992

The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook, Tinkerbell). Look high past the the last bolt for lower off hangers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

The steep left-leaning arete opposite Guys Slab Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw.

FA: Doug Ward & Pete Becker, 1992

Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

The scoop just right of SAS. Pre-clip the first draw

FA: Mark Seuring, 1996

The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. Careful not to stand on the bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right!

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

Right leaning diagonal break (rock #1). A one move 20.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

The left side of the dark arête, left of Guys Slab, with a large flat flake leaning against it. Lower off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the 83 first bolt, for climber & belayers sake. Hopefully by the time you climb this route, the bolts have been replaced.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of Wizards' arete. Use Wizard's lower off hangers.

FA: Paul Every, 1993

Something different. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide, clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that lower-off. Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade.

FA: Gert Forster, 1994

The arete opposite Wizards. The 2nd clip has great character. A challenging and thin 22.

FA: Shelley Carter, 1992

This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts.

A shocking-looking off-width, awesome when laybacked. On the back of the pinnacle that hosts Fairy Fingers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney.

FA: Mike Cartwright & L Waldman, 1992

Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road).

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

From the ledge, climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

he crack in the middle of the west face. You can also use some bolts on NO CRACK CROOKING.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

The crack towards the right of the west face.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

Immediately right, around the corner from TINKERBELL. Climb grey rippled face. easier if you use the corner.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Marianne Pretorius, 2003

Coming 20m down the gulley, scramble up an arete low down, across the face to the base of a thin crack. Climb this to the top.

FA: Marianne Pretorius & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

Activity

Check out what is happening in Never Never Land.