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Description

What a weird but cool place, a collection of pinnacles and chasms, you have to climb here at least once.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

As you arrive at the top of the Island, head northwest for 100 metres until you reach the corner overlooking the highway; you will see some deep dark chasms and pillars. Standing above the chasms, facing out, on the left is an open bushy gulley. Walk down this easily. Halfway down on the right is a nice ledge (Shiver Me Timbers etc are here). To get to the rest of the climbs, continue down the gulley and across a rocky slope, on the right you will see an obvious cleft/chasm with a huge chockstone. Walk up this chasm and you will arrive facing Guys Slab.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 18 * Shiver Me Timbers Sport 7

Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay.

FA: Mike Cartwright, Mike Loewe, 1992

2
SA 22 * Blunt Blade Sport 6

The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook, Tinkerbell). Look high past the the last bolt for lower off hangers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

3
SA 21 No Crack Crooking Sport 5

Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

4

The steep left-leaning arete opposite Guys Slab Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw.

FA: Doug Ward & Pete Becker, 1992

5
SA 21 * Slick and Shine Sport 5

Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

6
SA 26 Why Me? Sport 4

The scoop just right of SAS. Pre-clip the first draw

FA: Mark Seuring, 1996

7
SA 21 * Forever Young Sport 8

The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. Careful not to stand on the bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right!

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

8
SA 20 ** Overboard Trad

Right leaning diagonal break (rock #1). A one move 20.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

9
SA 24 ** Wizards Sport 6

The left side of the dark arête, left of Guys Slab, with a large flat flake leaning against it. Lower off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the 83 first bolt, for climber & belayers sake. Hopefully by the time you climb this route, the bolts have been replaced.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

10
SA 28 * Guy's Slab Sport 7

The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of Wizards' arete. Use Wizard's lower off hangers.

FA: Paul Every, 1993

11
SA 17 * Skirting the Issue Sport 6

Something different. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide, clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that lower-off. Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade.

FA: Gert Forster, 1994

12

The arete opposite Wizards. The 2nd clip has great character. A challenging and thin 22.

FA: Shelley Carter, 1992

13
SA 25 * Fairy Fingers Sport 5

This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts.

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SA 23 * Operasie Bullie Bief Sport 8

A shocking-looking off-width, awesome when laybacked. On the back of the pinnacle that hosts Fairy Fingers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

15
SA 17 Keelhaul the Rat Trad

Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney.

FA: Mike Cartwright & L Waldman, 1992

16
SA 16 K1 Trad

Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

17
SA 17 K2 Trad

Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road).

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

18
SA 20 * K4 Trad

From the ledge, climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

19

he crack in the middle of the west face. You can also use some bolts on NO CRACK CROOKING.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

20
SA 13 * Tinkerbell Trad

The crack towards the right of the west face.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

21
SA 14 * Pixie Dust Trad

Immediately right, around the corner from TINKERBELL. Climb grey rippled face. easier if you use the corner.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

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FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Marianne Pretorius, 2003

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Coming 20m down the gulley, scramble up an arete low down, across the face to the base of a thin crack. Climb this to the top.

FA: Marianne Pretorius & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003