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Description

Some pleasant but very short climbs.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

A. Park at the Elandskrans reception area, as described for The Restaurant. Walk west through the resort until you see the old put-put (crazy golf) course. 20 metres or so left of this is a good trail leading down gently into the valley, you will see the small crags of the pasture facing you. Cross over the stream and up to the base of the crag.

B. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house, walk towards Elandskrans Resort for 120 metres, down and then left to the base of the crags.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 * The Crack Sport 5

The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.

FA: Rupert Leigh, 1994

2
17 * Smoking Grass Sport 5

Climb the face just right of THE CRACK. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route.

FA: Rupert Leigh, 1994

3
18 Milkman Sport 5

Climb the face just left of the arete.

FA: C Kenmuir & G Kenmuir, 1994

4
18 Gas Mixed 4

Stay on the arete through overlap.

FA: C & G Kenmuir, 1994

5

Climb face between arete and tree.

FA: J Orton, 1994

6
20 ** Khanyisile Sport 5

Fine balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gulley.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

7
19 * Cowlick Sport 6

Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arete.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

8
22 * Cowabunga Sport 6

Line of bolts through roof. Exit up crack.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland, 1994

9
20 * Cowboys Sport 5

Starts left of, and shares 2 bolts on STARGRAZER.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland, 1994

10
22 * Stargrazer Sport 6

Starts in crack with chockstone. Pull straight up from underneath the bulge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

11
21 * Gyppo-Guts Sport 5

Starts at a hollow-topped stone. Follow crack to wide roof crack, using some cunning. Pull up to chains on the right.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

12
22 * Imodium Sport 6

Climb 3 bolts on GYPPO-GUTS; traverse right; pull bulge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

13

The old trad line that now has bolts thanks to Chris.

FA: Chris Wynn, 1997

14
22 * Abattoir Sport 5

Cool extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994