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Description

Some climbs here are slightly exposed with a nice view over the valley below.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

Continue along to the right of the COVEN. After about 50 m along over some blocks these towers lie with fun moderate climbing.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 ** Bolts from Hell Sport 10

45m along from the last routes of the Coven. About 2m left of the arete on the middle tower. Sort of runout at the crux.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

2
19 * Salem Sport 8

Starts in the corner right of the arete. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

3
19 * Possessed Sport 6

Starts 2m up the gulley. Climb to lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

4
19 * Bad Omen Sport 5

Climb 2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

5
18 * Hot Stuff Sport 9

Follow path 15m down. Climb the South-East face of the North Tower.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

6
19 ** Exorcist Sport 9

Climbs the fine line on the Northern face of the North Tower.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994