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Description

A good crag to escape to if the masses have invaded Flying is Fun.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

Approach as per Flying is Fun. 100 metres before the cliff top, large cairns (piles of stones) are obvious on the right of the path. Follow a faint trail leading diagonally down right for 60 metres, into a shallow tree-filled easy gully. Go down a bit then keep left until you arrive at the obvious huge dark detached pillar where Yuduvudu is located.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 19 * Spooks in the Closet Sport 7

Goes up the orange-grey slab 5 metres left of the detached pillar.

FA: Antoinette Lessing, 1994

2
SA 13 * Uriel's Machine Sport 9

The gap between the obvious deteched pillar and the main wall is a wide chimney. Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone. Layback 93 up a zig-zag crack directly beneath the chockstone. Variation: Climb the route as a chimney - somewhat easier.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

3
SA 12 * Toilet Brush Sport 8

Two meters to the right of URIEL'S MACHINE. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both UM and TB and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

4
SA 25 ** Yuduvudu Sport 8

Near the base of the descent gulley on the right is an obvious detached pillar. This route takes the leaning dark face.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1994

5
SA 14 Weigh-Less Crack Sport 7

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

6
SA 17 ** Frequent Flyer Sport 9

6m right of WEIGH-LESS CRACK is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

7
SA 14 ** Voyager Sport 11

3m right of FREQUENT FLYER on the same face.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

8
SA 17 ** Blokkies Joubert Sport 10

Around the corner is an appealing blunt blocky buttress has a series of blocky ledges.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

9
SA 16 ** Tea For Two Sport 7

A face to the right and around the corner from BLOKKIES JOUBERT. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

10
SA 15 * 2nd Anniversary Sport 7

2m right of Tea for Two starting just to the left of the flaring chimney.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

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Start as for 2nd Anniversary but move onto the steep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.

FA: Stephanie Mallory, 2003

12
SA 17 ** Nearly Headless Nick Sport 10

8 metres right of the above is a steep east- facing yellow-grey slab. The climb starts off a big block.

FA: Cara Fleischer, 2004

13

A few metres right of Nearly Headless Nick. Climb the cracks up the slab and exit left.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

14

Up the right arête of the flaky red wall, starting in a large crack left of the arête.. It needs a lot of gear, has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the name!

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

15

The bolt line up a prominent steep slab a few metres right of the aforementioned bowl. Starts off a big ledge. May your fingers have thick skin!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

16

Climb the crack right of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991