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This crag offers fantastic sustained easy and moderate climbs. If only it was a bit taller…

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


Park at the Elandskrans Reception, as described for The Restaurant. A good path leaves the Elandskrans Resort just by the corner of the basketball court (past the swimming pools). Walk along the trail over open rocky grassland heading in the direction of the township until you arrive at the cliff edge (from where the Coven can be seen on the other side of the valley). Go down and right about 10 metres and there is a scramble down. If you have dogs or non-climbing friends there is a less defined but easier path about 70m to the left when you arrive at the cliff edge.



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Grade Route

The arete at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic!

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the VOCD. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The wide crack just right of TCM.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The recess just right. Shares 3 bolts with MRI. Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. Trend back left to lower-off.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The slab just right of the arete. Head for the arete after the 4th bolt. Going straight up the face is trickier.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

The prominent crackline, using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Direct start is 23/24 - height dependent.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

The seam 2m right of RIP, using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Crackline just right of MM. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto THERMAL'S block at the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on FOTS. Step back left to FOTS lower-offs after surmounting the block.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Starts in the recess just right of THERMAL/FOTS. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and arete above. Go out right to STONE COLD'S finish.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Takes the slanting crack just right of BITD. Continue up the arete and out right to the loweroffs at the high point.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Start up FROZEN FLESH'S crack. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arete. Finish at the same lower- offs as STONE COLD.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Climb the face straight above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

Start up DYING TO FLY. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. Climb this.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of DOA. A bouldery move to gain the slab.

FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991

The other right leaning crack - more technical but easier than DTF. Step right from the ledge - the first 5m are off-balance. Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.

FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991

This is the direct start to THREE BLIND MICE, follow the crack from ground level.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

From the base of the THREE BLIND MICE crack, move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up, joining THREE BLIND MICE to the top.

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

4m right of the ledge edge. A bit reachy. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The short crack 3m right of RECOVERY ROOM'S corner.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

On face holds 1m left of FLY BY NIGHT; uses same recess in the upper reaches, and the same bolts throughout.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

Face move 2m right of FBN avoiding the corner. Uses BCA's bolts.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Using the corner where needed and the same bolts.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

The next two climbs are on a big detached block facing "Bridget Flies Again".

The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. (Sandbagged and opened at 18!)

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

The steep face around the corner right of "Bolder Problem".

FA: Geoff Rehmet, 2005

A little down and right from the "Bolder Problem" boulder is another block that has been covered in a plethora of bolts, giving a probably 10 or so short moderate (12-15?) routes.

Most of these seem to be un-named & un-graded. The Watervalboven PDF guide says: There are some more climbs on the left side of the large boulder on which Les Trois Meufs is found. If the first ascensionist wants to name and grade them, then please post the updates on Wiki climb.

The following attempts to describe many of them.

This line starts lower down on the boulder, making it the longest on this face.

First bolt-line left of the crack.

Left-leaning crack in middle of face, two-bolts to anchor.

2nd bolt-line from the crack, left of the U-bolts up the left-side of the arete.

Might be Inspektor Bliksem Neer?

Just left of the arete, a short line of U-bolts, seeming to end at anchors on the face around the arete to the right.

The first route as you turn the corner to the left of LES TROIS MEUFS. Opened by one of the local Police officers.

With so many bolted lines now on that face, it is unclear which one is actually this climb, and none of them have 6 bolts, or even 5 bolts & anchor.

FA: Alwyn Venter, 2001

U-bolts up the left end of the face with "Les Trois Meufs"

Up the face mid-way between the crack and the arete.

To the right behind BOLDER PROBLEM is another block. Climb the crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

The face right of the crack in the middle of the boulder.

FA: Johan Olivier & Deon Vermeulen, 2003

Far right edge of the face with Les Trois Meufs.


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