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Table of contents

1. Baboon Buttress 49 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364821, -25.673029

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach:

APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Papsak

Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner

22Sport 6
2 * Loopdop

Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner.

17Sport 7
3 * After Thoughts

Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley).

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2009

16Sport 5
4 ** Diablo

Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish.

FA: Evan Margetts, 2011

27Sport 7
5 A.S

Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. A grovel.

14Sport 6
6 ** Raptophilia

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2011

32Sport 8
7 ** Psyche Ward

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

31Sport 5
8 * Blood Diamond

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts., 2012

28Sport 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Baboons in Boardshorts

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

14Sport 7
10 * Trench Town

Slab on arête in descent gulley.

FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano, 2006

Sport 5
11 ** Adam

Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature.

FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt, 2007

22Sport 6
12 ** Irritable Male Syndrome

Climb the next slanting feature.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

22Sport 6
13 * Almost Ushie

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22.

FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007

23Sport 6
14 * One Love

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

FA: Chris Vandereydt, 2006

23Sport 5
15 ** Grizzly Behr

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006

16Sport 9
16 ** Just Behrly

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

30Sport 8
17 ** Renewable Energy

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

18Sport
18 ** Luckly Leila

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004

22Sport
19 ** Whait Watcher Pitch One

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

17Sport 5
20 ** Whait Watcher Pitch Two

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

21Sport 8
21 ** Qina

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

19Sport
22 * No More Dynamo

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

20Sport 8
23 * Slave Species

Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

25Sport 6
24 Up in Smoke

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose.

FA: Mike Mason, 2002

21Sport 10
25 ** Pretenders

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007

24Sport 8
26 * Goose on a Loose

Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2006

26Sport 9
27 ** Up Alard's Crack

If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

17Sport 10
28 ** Kannie-Ballistic

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

27Sport 12
29 ** Ledgends

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

25Sport 6
30 ** Jamani

FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg, 2006

19Sport 6
31 *** Sweet Plum

Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.

FA: Alard Hufner, 2007

25Sport 14
32 ** Sour Grapes

Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

24Sport 13
33 ** Thorns Between the Roses

Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

12Sport 7
34 Twice in a Blue Moon

Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE.

FA: 2009

18Sport 7
35 ** Wild Fire

Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

25Sport 10
36 * Heroes

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

26Sport 9
37 *** Condor

A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt.

FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010

28Sport 11
38 *** The Bovenator

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: 2010

28Sport 11
39 ** Dreamers

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

23Sport 11
40 ** Not-Da-Mamma

Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

23Sport 14
41 * Hey Mamma

Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

16Sport 6
42 *** African Rain

Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

25Sport 14
43 ** Ice Cream Sundae

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

22Sport 65m, 16
44 ** Sticky Toffe Pudding

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2007

23Sport 17
45 ** Sweet Child of Mine

Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey!

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2010

27Sport 14
46 Rolihlahla / The Overlord

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Set by Andrew Pedley, 2008

FA: Sasha DiGiulian, 2013

33Sport
47 The Butterfly Pitch One

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

FA: Alard Hufner

26Sport
48 *** The Butterfly Pitch Two

The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

Sport
49 *** Big Butterfly

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

28Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 ** Thorns Between the Roses Sport 7
14 A.S Sport 6
* Baboons in Boardshorts Sport 7
16 * After Thoughts Sport 5
** Grizzly Behr Sport 9
* Hey Mamma Sport 6
17 * Loopdop Sport 7
** Up Alard's Crack Sport 10
** Whait Watcher Pitch One Sport 5
18 Twice in a Blue Moon Sport 7
** Renewable Energy Sport
19 ** Jamani Sport 6
** Qina Sport
20 * No More Dynamo Sport 8
21 Up in Smoke Sport 10
** Whait Watcher Pitch Two Sport 8
22 ** Adam Sport 6
** Irritable Male Syndrome Sport 6
** Luckly Leila Sport
23 * Almost Ushie Sport 6
** Not-Da-Mamma Sport 14
* One Love Sport 5
** Sticky Toffe Pudding Sport 17
22 ** Ice Cream Sundae Sport 65m, 16
* Papsak Sport 6
24 ** Pretenders Sport 8
** Sour Grapes Sport 13
23 ** Dreamers Sport 11
25 ** Ledgends Sport 6
*** Sweet Plum Sport 14
26 * Goose on a Loose Sport 9
* Heroes Sport 9
The Butterfly Pitch One Sport
25 *** African Rain Sport 14
* Slave Species Sport 6
** Wild Fire Sport 10
27 ** Kannie-Ballistic Sport 12
** Sweet Child of Mine Sport 14
28 *** Big Butterfly Sport
* Blood Diamond Sport 5
*** Condor Sport 11
*** The Bovenator Sport 11
27 ** Diablo Sport 7
30 ** Just Behrly Sport 8
31 ** Psyche Ward Sport 5
32 ** Raptophilia Sport 8
33 Rolihlahla Sport
? *** The Butterfly Pitch Two Sport
* Trench Town Sport 5