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Table of contents

1. The Waterfall Crags 102 routes in Crag

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.348573, -25.638463


Waterval Boven means „above the waterfall‟ in Dutch .…and the waterfall is pretty damn impressive! To look at it from the tourist view-point is great, but to climb on the crags beside it is much more exhilarating! There are a number of crags in this area, with a stack of classic „atmospheric‟ sport and trad pitches. Make the effort to climb here at least once on your trip, a day down at the Waterfall crags is always memorable, mostly for the right reasons!

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link


(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.344884, -25.634723


Images of ACRA wall have probably sold the idea of climbing in South Africa to more climbers than any other single face in the country. Pictures of the wall have appeared in most of the famous climbing magazines in the world, as well as on book covers, posters and almanacs. The climbing is long, sustained, with awesome views in an exposed location.


Ask if you can be dropped off here by the friendly staff at Roc 'n Rope Adventures or one of the local climbers. From Roc & Rope, drive downhill towards the railway. At the T-junction turn right and go down the hill into the township (Emgwenya), turn left at the T-juntion. Just before reaching the waterworks, about 650m along, turn left down (the second) steep passable dirt road. This takes one over a low-level concrete bridge over the river, then turn right and right again after 100 metres at a fork. Continue underneath the main N4 highway. The parking place is the dead end just above the the Elands Falls. The abseil points are not more than 30 metres from this point. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car, locked vehicles have been broken into here. It is better to be dropped off then walk back. 96 To access the A.C.R.A wall, walk towards the cliff top and find the correct abseil point. The abseil for climbs between Sorcery and You Too Brutus is about 20 m left in a small chimney at the top of the crag. This abseil takes you to some stepped ledges about 15 metres above the forest floor. Hang the draws on your route and chalk up a few holds on the way down. You can scramble along these ledges easily to get to the base of each of the climbs. Do not leave any bags at the top of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Urisk the Rustic Brownie

An incredible position, beside the waterfall. This is the first line to the right when looking at the waterfall. Abseil to a bolted stance 20m down and climb back out. A 60m rope is needed to escape from the stance if you do get stuck.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

23 Sport 11
2 * Before Inner Child

The face left of the arete.

FA: Peter Lazarus & Tessa Little, 2002

24 Trad
3 ** Sorcery

Awesome line - famous for the photo opportunity with the waterfall in the background. Starting just left of the arete, climb it. Take care, protection is sparse!

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1991

25 Trad
4 *** Satan's Temple

Starts just right of the arete from a great ledge. Involves a long dyno and a very fingery headwall. An awesome climb in an awesome place.

FA: Stefan Glowacz, 1995

29 Sport 14
5 *** Unlimited Power

Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. Power moves take you steeply left and up the headwall. Was opened at 27.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

28 Sport 10
6 ** Screaming Blue Messiah

Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

26 Trad
7 ** Something Esoteric

The next crack right of SBM, about 4m right of the first corner. Quite runout but wonderful. Zap up to the chains. It is possible to access by rapping in from the tree on top.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

23 Sport 9
8 * Jitterbug Perfume

The corner. The 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & the last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). Top out just right of the crack.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25 Trad
9 ** A Mixture of Frailties

Start at chains on the ledge right of the corner. Climb up easy-ish ground heading a bit left. Then it gets harder…

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

25 Sport 10
10 *** You Too Brutus

From the chains climb up and thinly right. Go through the overlaps to the chains. RB in 2008.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

26 Sport 12

1.2. WB Wall 2 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.346314, -25.634620


Can you guess what WB stands for!? An eerie crag, with the wind howling through the gap. Boer Skiet.. is probably the most exposed 17 in Boven, great fun at the end of a day.


Park as for ACRA Wall. From the parking, walk back along the dirt road until a small trail after about 20m leads down to the railway. Follow the railway track to the mouth of the train tunnel. The WB Gulley is now on your right. Scramble 5 m down the gulley to belay chains with the routes on your left. [ GPS: S25 38 04.2 E30 20 43.1]

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost Track

From the WB graffiti, climb the left hand line to chains. Apart from the photo potential, this route is not as good as it looks.

FA: Grant Murray, Ian Manson, 1992

21 Sport 6
2 * Boer Skiet Dief Dood

Clip the first bolt on LT, then traverse up to the right hand line. Translation : “Farmer shoots thief dead.” This was a newspaper headline that day!

FA: Ian Manson, Grant Murray, 1992

17 Sport 8

1.3. The Last Crag of the Century 26 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.348042, -25.634253


Routes here are up to 35 metres long and the quality of the climbing is clearly imported from another solar system, several 5-star routes including arguably the best 19, best 22, 23 and 26 at Boven!. Long routes will sometimes have chains halfway up so that you can lower off twice to get down. There is plenty of potential for new lines at the right end of the crag, just be sure it‟s not one of the existing trad climbs.


The best is to park as for ACRA then access as for the WB wall, then abseil (or scramble) down the WB gulley. At the base of the gulley, walk along the path along the base of the cliffs until you see the climbs. To exit, either scramble back up the gulley, or 101 walk approx 200 metres along the base of the crag until you reach the railway and you will arrive at the top of the WB gully. Walk back through tunnel, if a train comes, press yourself to one side (apparently safe but absolutely terrifying).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Madiba Magic

Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag.

Set by Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2013

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2013

18 Sport 35m, 17
2 ** Sport Climbing Is Dead

An obvious crack 20 m right of the WB gulley. The route is about 35m long.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits, 1999

18 Trad 35m
3 * Electric Avenue - Pitch 1

About 40m right of SCID. A few steepish moves up to the belay ledge and the start of the next pitch.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

17 Sport 2 9
4 * Electric Avenue - Pitch 2

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

23 Sport 2 9
5 * Unplugged Avenue

Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.

FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling, 2009

6 *** Endless Summer

Face climbing can‟t get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

22 Sport 14
7 ** Superfly

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of ES. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

23 Sport 17
8 ** Good Times

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30+m long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

23 Sport 17
9 * Fudge Beats Burfee

Diagonally leftwards up to the obvious knee bar in the block under the overlap. Pull over this rightwards then easy to finish.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

25 Sport 10
10 * Monkey Puzzle

Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

28 Sport 11
11 ** As the World Disappears

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30+m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

26 Sport 13
12 * Caffeine Jitters

Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'ATWD' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The climb can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

13 Sport
13 ** Trippin' on Life

The long face just left of CJ.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

24 Sport 15
14 ** To Crack Or Not to Crack

pitch 20** 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge cams and up to the obvious ledge. Pitch 15** 12m Continue straight to the top. Can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

20 Trad 32m 2
15 ** Who's Your Daddy?

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

FA: Alex Janse van Rensburg, 1999

19 Sport 12
16 ** The Three Mosquitos

Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles!

FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 1999

21 Sport 18
17 *** Chakalaka

Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

20 Sport 12
18 ** Unterwegs Nach Haus

Just right of the arete, 30+m long. so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

24 Sport 13
19 * Wish You Were Here

Share the first couple of bolts with UH, then out right. Ever so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

23 Sport 13
20 * Nature of Being

Ever so slightly run out!!! Take a #0 and #0.5 Friend plus a #1 rock for in case you need it.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

21 Sport 9
21 *** Transmutation

About 50m left of Heck, Tick. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

22 Trad
22 * Along For The Ride

Start at large flaring offwidth crack. Climb the crack till it ends and move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2 meters. Pull through break and up headwall. Take small gear.

FA: Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring & Douard le Roux, 2003

21 Trad
23 *** Heck, Tick

Starts below on an obvious corner capped by large roofs 15m above. Climb the corner and bypass the roofs on the left, then straight up the head wall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

16 Trad
24 Static Scampering

Climb the corner 2m left of DFADS; bypass overhang on left and scamper up slab through overlap to top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

18 Trad
25 ** Dust From A Distant Sun

Starts 15m left of FTL. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

19 Trad
26 ** Follow The light

Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

25 Trad

1.4. The East End 2 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.348821, -25.633894


A good crag to do some trainspotting...


Park as for ACRA wall then walk back down the road 20 metres then down a little path on the right onto the railway. Go in easterly direction along the railway then through the tunnel (if a train comes press flat against the side, apparently its safe but absolutely terrifying!). When you exit the tunnel, the EAST END is found on the left after crossing another railway line coming out of a 461 m tunnel.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Train Massacre

From the 461m long train tunnel, walk up 10m to find the first bolt.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25 Sport 8
2 * Boipatong

6m right of the fence (right of TM). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.

FA: M Loewe & S Hofmeyr, 1992

19 Trad

1.5. Toon Town 33 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 30.351282, -25.636787


Lots of trad classics and some bolted ones too. The potential here (also behind it on the other side of the ridge) is largely untapped and one looks down into the valley with the falls lurking constantly behind you when you climb.


Take the N4 highway (east) towards Nelspruit. 1,7km after exiting the tunnel, a dirt road turns left and crosses the Elands river. Always stay left on this up the hill, back in the direction of the waterfall until a parking place is reached after a right bend. This road is known not to always be in good condition. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car, locked vehicles have been broken into here. From the parking, cross the railway track and walk up the hill on faint paths up to the cliff. On the left is an impressive face with a great fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next west face to the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded by 2 wider cracks.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Topless Skateboard Nun

About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby hole onto the slab (crux needs friend #and follow the crack to the top.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

23 Trad
2 * Under a Choking Sun

4m right of TSN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!

FA: M Loewe, A Lainis, 1992

19 Trad
3 * African Odyssey

Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face, then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers.

FA: Andrew Lainis, 1992

25 Sport 13
4 * Little Man's Complex

Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the coldshuts.

FA: M Loewe, 1992

22 Trad
5 * Rachel and Rebecca

The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project.

FA: C Curson, B Marcus & L Waldman, 1992

18 Trad
6 Poes in Boots

Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arete.

FA: Brett Clarke, 1992

26 Trad
7 * Night of the Crash Test Dummies

The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly right at the top to exit.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

17 Trad
8 ** The Colour Purple

On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

23 Trad
9 * Eccentrica Gallumbitz

The wider crack just to the right.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

20 Trad
10 * Day of Decimation

in a crazy wild place. The arete right of the 3 cracks. Permission has been granted for retro-bolting!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992

26 Trad
11 * Black Planet

Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. The right hand one is not too pleasant (grade - 22/23). This route is the left one.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

20 Trad
12 Dark Star

pitch 20 Climb the right corner. Exiting left. Pitch 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. Move back right to the corner.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20 Trad
13 ** Mannenburg

Start 4m right of the corner, climb the short face to below the roof, turn this and climb the crack to the top.

FA: Ian Manson & R Uken, 1992

25 Trad
14 * White Arses

Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious right- slanting crack.

FA: Kohle, 1993

17 Sport 4
15 Slanting Crack

Climb the rightward slanting crack.

14 Trad
16 ** The Lightness of Being

The line of ring bolts to the right of the crack.

FA: M Jager, 1993

25 Sport 5
17 * Kimosabe the Music's Starting

A finger crack up the on-balance wall, opposite the cave. Starts just right of the short, obvious layback crack.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

15 Trad
18 * Roger Strikes Back

Starts 6m left of the offwidth, DBB just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Go thinly up a seam, then up right until able to go up and back leftwards to lower offs near the arete.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

24 Sport 9
19 ** Death By Banda

Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & C Lomax, 1992

23 Trad
20 The Immaculate Misconception

Climb the crack line inside the cave.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

21 Trad
21 Champion Barbed-Wire Hurdler

Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof 106 to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1992

19 Trad
22 Thompson & Thompson

Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder, opposite DEATH BY BANDA.

16 Trad
23 * Tramplepath

Another line of bolts, on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.

FA: German Raiders, 1993

20 Sport 5
24 Whistle Stop

On railway side of boulder. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder, below the obvious broad crack line. Climb the crack.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

17 Trad
25 * Minnie Mouse Menopause

On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

22 Trad
26 * Fred's Cornflake Collection

Climb the big flake line right of MMM.

FA: A Gillet, A Russel-Boulton, 1992

14 Trad
27 Kill the Wabbit

Climb the on-balance wall right of FCC. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half way up, then straight up.

FA: A Gillet & A Russel-Boulton, 1992

14 Trad
28 ** The Bart Man

Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.

FA: A Russel-Boulton & A Gillet, 1992

18 Trad
29 ** It's No Bulldog

The obvious thin crack line left of SUTBID.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992

22 Trad
30 Something Under the Bed Is Drooling

The short crack behind the pinnacle. Seam on left, long crack on right.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

20 Trad
31 Dopey Does De Aar

Still no sign of Dopey. Somewhere out there does he lurk.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

16 Trad
32 Pink Panther Se Pillar

The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar, opposite SUTBID.

FA: G Laurens & F van der Linder, 1992

17 Trad
33 * Palm It Off

Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Next to this you may find this climb.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992

24 Sport 8

1.6. The Wild SIde 4 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.352064, -25.640331


After doing all the other routes in Waterval Boven, this crag with awesome views of some other (better) crags will be waiting. Around the corner to the East lies great potential for new routing.


As for Toon Town, just hike around to the right [ GPS: S25 38 26.2 E30 21 06.7]. There is also an easy walk up from the Island side of the hill [ GPS: S25 38 28.8 E30 21 00.9].

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Easy Street

Start from the cave/recess and climb the left break on the prominent wall.

FA: G Laurens, Dave Walden & R van Wyk, 1993

16 Trad
2 * Flies on the Back of a Cow

Start a few metres right of EASY STREET and climb the right break on the prominent wall

FA: G Laurens, Dave Walden & R van Wyk, 1993

18 Trad
3 * Moon Dreamer

On the next wall to the right. Climb the line just right of the recess finishing up the left leaning break.

FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden, 1993

20 Trad
4 * Sloth on the Loose

The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Start a few metres right of MOON DREAMER and climb up to the headwall. Follow the neat line to the top.

FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden, 1993

22 Trad

1.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East) 2 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346425, -25.638313


This tunnel is a National Monument. Leave your valuables at home and do not trust suspicious looking characters. Be brave.


The safest parking is found at the new tourist information stop when you drive through the road tunnel towards Nelspruit and turn off on the left immediately after exiting the tunnel. From here, hike towards the old ZASM tunnel, a national monument. The crag 108 is on your left. There is some potential here, but beware of locals lurking around. Leave your valuables at home.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * RETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA / Tetrograd Rat and the Yeoville Diva

Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of TREE LOVE's rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.

FA: Mike Cartwright & M Loewe, 1992

22 Trad
2 * Tree Love

FA: M Loewe, Mike Cartwright & F Botha, 1992

17 Trad

1.8. The Junkyard 20 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346976, -25.636901


Some of the best trad climbs at Boven, and great views of the waterfall. However, it‟s a pity the ledges and the base of the crag are littered with nasty rubbish (the locals use the clif as a dumping site..). It‟s still worth it for the 4 and 5 star lines though.


Drive into the township, pass the post boxes and Shebeens (bars) then take the next right. Follow this road, around a bend past the high school on the left. After another 100 metres, take a sharp right beside house „675‟. Follow this rough track, through the grass, past some pig sties to a rocky parking area by some large prehistoric-looking plants. Walk to the large rocks at the cliff edge and on the right you will see wide gully. Further right you can look down onto the detached pillar which hosts „Coming Of Pride‟ etc. Scramble easily down the gully 5 metres to the large fig trees. Abseil off one of the trees 18 metres to the ground. Leave a top rope up so that you can climb out (grade 12 ish). „Two For Tree‟ (17) climbs the right wall (looking out) of the gulley.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Just Before Breakfast

On the far left of the crag, past the Coming Of Pride pinnacle there is an obvious in a gulley crack (on the right when looking down the gully).

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1999

18 Trad
2 Eastsoloing

Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to Coming Of Pride.

FA: M Jager, 1992

15 Trad
3 South Corner

Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle.

FA: R Johler, 1992

15 Trad
4 Styling

Climb the arete left of Coming Of Pride.

FA: R Kohler, 1992

17 Trad
5 *** Coming of Pride

Climb the crack system up the front of the pinnacle. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing).

FA: M Brunke & Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

17 Trad
6 ** Out of Germany

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of Coming Of Pride, with the big german-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on LB.

FA: R Jager, 1993

23 Trad
7 Little Bitch

Climb the wall of the pinnacle, to the right of the Out Of Germany arête. Starts in a finger crack then up the left trending seam.

FA: M Jager, 1992

24 Trad
8 * Funky Fruit

On the main face opposite Out of Germany. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.

FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet, 2006

16 Trad
9 * Two For Tree

Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.

FA: Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

17 Trad
10 * You Can Take Your Dog To The Water

Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

18 Trad
11 * Wizard Of Oz

Starts about 30m right of little bitch at a face just right of an obvious recess. Pitch 1. 11 * Climb tree for 5m, step over to face. Pitch 2. 16 * Move through overlap up from ledge and up a crack. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

16 Trad 2
12 The Gutter

Start as for NN, but climb the face. Pitch 1. 15 From thin moves with tricky protection straight up the face to the ledge. Pitch 2. 15 * From the far left end of the ledge, climb up traversing diagonally back towards a crack after 3m. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

15 Trad
13 ** Keep It 'N Reap It

Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter, 2004

17 Trad
14 * Et Tu Ceaser

A rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

19 Trad
15 *** Boa Rodeo

Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

31 Trad
16 *** Mulungu Goes To School

Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

32 Trad
17 * Scrabble

Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.

FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter, 2003

18 Trad
18 * Khamikazi Leila

Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

17 Trad
19 *** In My Place

Unbelievable. 30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk, 2004

19 Trad
20 * Thornification

Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

18 Trad

1.9. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (West) 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346017, -25.636430


Why on why…? Only the British! Some young English lads found THIS spot to climb - and write it up!


From the viewing deck on the West side of the tunnel, walk out towards the road. The route is on your left


This is not really a crag, but in fact an artificially made area. The engineers of the late 1800‟s blasted out this passage and dumped all the rocks out on the scree slope below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

At the west entrance, 8m right of an old fence take the right hand crack till some loose blocks. Pull up and left through a roof, traverse 2m and exit up an easy crack.

FA: Ian Caunt, 2001

15 Trad

1.10. Waterval Onder - Luilekker Crags 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road a few kms past Boven on the N4. Call Louw Pretorius, the owner of Luilekker Guest House on +2713 257 7056. These crags have great potential and the land owner is keen to get more routes developed. Be friendly to him and report to reception before climbing here.


Take the N4 highway in the direction of Nelspruit. Look for the well sign posted Luilekker Guest House, 2.5km after the tunnel on the right. [ GPS: S25 38 51.9 E30 21 49.7 1270 m]. The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road


The bowl-like feature faces north and bakes throughout the year. This crag could be slightly warmer than those in Waterval Boven due to the drop in altitude as one drives down. Best go on a cloudy cold day or in the evening.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

This route, the first on the crag, follows a line up the middle of the main face. Pitch 1. 17 * 35m. Start on the face 10m left of the obvious, shallow lunch cave. Climb up tending right into a recess till a large ledge below an overhanging face. Pitch 2. 23 20m. Start at back left corner of ledge. Climbs strenuous corner crack for 6m the traverse right for 3m on good holds and exposure. Fire 112 straight up to a ledge from where one can belay and walk off.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

23 Trad

1.11. Waterval Onder - The Aloes 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

This crag can be seen from the increasingly popular Aloes Restaurant and Backpackers Lodge.


Drive out of town, turn right on the N4 to Nelspruit and through the tunnel. 3.5km after the tunnel on your left is a parking area [ GPS: S25 38 44.2 E30 22 26.5] in front of the Aloes Backpackers and Restaurant. Kevin and Tracy manage this spot and will look after your car if you buy some fresh or smoked trout and a drink from them afterwards. Cross the N4 and walk straight up the hill.


This North facing crag could be quite warm. The route ALLO, ALOE will enjoy morning shade in its right facing corner. There is still loads of potential for sport or trad lines.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

This route climbs the obvious right facing break that forms a corner in the middle of the face. The opening party climbed it in two pitches of 25 metres each. From the top, walk 15m right to a good abseil tree. Abseil to ledge and another good tree will bring you back to the ground.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

15 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 * Caffeine Jitters Sport 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
14 * Fred's Cornflake Collection Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Kill the Wabbit Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Slanting Crack Trad 1.5. Toon Town
15 * Kimosabe the Music's Starting Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Eastsoloing Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
South Corner Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
The Gutter Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
FANTASY FONDUE FORFIT Trad 1.9. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (West)
* ALLO ALOE Trad 1.11. Waterval Onder - The Aloes
16 *** Heck, Tick Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
Dopey Does De Aar Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Thompson & Thompson Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Easy Street Trad 1.6. The Wild SIde
* Funky Fruit Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* Wizard Of Oz Trad 2 1.8. The Junkyard
17 * Boer Skiet Dief Dood Sport 8 1.2. WB Wall
* Electric Avenue - Pitch 1 Sport 2 9 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Night of the Crash Test Dummies Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Pink Panther Se Pillar Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Whistle Stop Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* White Arses Sport 4 1.5. Toon Town
* Tree Love Trad 1.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East)
*** Coming of Pride Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
** Keep It 'N Reap It Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* Khamikazi Leila Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
Styling Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* Two For Tree Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
18 *** Madiba Magic Sport 35m, 17 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Sport Climbing Is Dead Trad 35m 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
Static Scampering Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Rachel and Rebecca Trad 1.5. Toon Town
** The Bart Man Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Flies on the Back of a Cow Trad 1.6. The Wild SIde
** Just Before Breakfast Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* Scrabble Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* Thornification Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* You Can Take Your Dog To The Water Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
19 ** Dust From A Distant Sun Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Who's Your Daddy? Sport 12 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Boipatong Trad 1.4. The East End
Champion Barbed-Wire Hurdler Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Under a Choking Sun Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Et Tu Ceaser Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
*** In My Place Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
20 *** Chakalaka Sport 12 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** To Crack Or Not to Crack Trad 32m 2 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Black Planet Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Dark Star Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Eccentrica Gallumbitz Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Something Under the Bed Is Drooling Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Tramplepath Sport 5 1.5. Toon Town
* Moon Dreamer Trad 1.6. The Wild SIde
21 Lost Track Sport 6 1.2. WB Wall
* Along For The Ride Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Nature of Being Sport 9 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** The Three Mosquitos Sport 18 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
The Immaculate Misconception Trad 1.5. Toon Town
22 *** Endless Summer Sport 14 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
*** Transmutation Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** It's No Bulldog Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Little Man's Complex Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Minnie Mouse Menopause Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Sloth on the Loose Trad 1.6. The Wild SIde
* RETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA Trad 1.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East)
23 ** Something Esoteric Sport 9 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
Urisk the Rustic Brownie Sport 11 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
* Electric Avenue - Pitch 2 Sport 2 9 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Good Times Sport 17 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Superfly Sport 17 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Wish You Were Here Sport 13 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Death By Banda Trad 1.5. Toon Town
** The Colour Purple Trad 1.5. Toon Town
* Topless Skateboard Nun Trad 1.5. Toon Town
** Out of Germany Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
* CEASARS BOWL Trad 1.10. Waterval Onder - Luilekker Crags
24 * Before Inner Child Trad 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Trippin' on Life Sport 15 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Unterwegs Nach Haus Sport 13 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Palm It Off Sport 8 1.5. Toon Town
* Roger Strikes Back Sport 9 1.5. Toon Town
Little Bitch Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
25 ** A Mixture of Frailties Sport 10 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
* Jitterbug Perfume Trad 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Sorcery Trad 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Follow The light Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Fudge Beats Burfee Sport 10 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Train Massacre Sport 8 1.4. The East End
* African Odyssey Sport 13 1.5. Toon Town
** Mannenburg Trad 1.5. Toon Town
** The Lightness of Being Sport 5 1.5. Toon Town
26 ** Screaming Blue Messiah Trad 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
*** You Too Brutus Sport 12 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** As the World Disappears Sport 13 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Day of Decimation Trad 1.5. Toon Town
Poes in Boots Trad 1.5. Toon Town
28 *** Unlimited Power Sport 10 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
* Monkey Puzzle Sport 11 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century
29 *** Satan's Temple Sport 14 1.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
31 *** Boa Rodeo Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
32 *** Mulungu Goes To School Trad 1.8. The Junkyard
? * Unplugged Avenue Trad 1.3. The Last Crag of the Century