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Description

Routes here are up to 35 metres long and the quality of the climbing is clearly imported from another solar system, several 5-star routes including arguably the best 19, best 22, 23 and 26 at Boven!. Long routes will sometimes have chains halfway up so that you can lower off twice to get down. There is plenty of potential for new lines at the right end of the crag, just be sure it‟s not one of the existing trad climbs.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

The best is to park as for ACRA then access as for the WB wall, then abseil (or scramble) down the WB gulley. At the base of the gulley, walk along the path along the base of the cliffs until you see the climbs. To exit, either scramble back up the gulley, or 101 walk approx 200 metres along the base of the crag until you reach the railway and you will arrive at the top of the WB gully. Walk back through tunnel, if a train comes, press yourself to one side (apparently safe but absolutely terrifying).

Routes

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Grade Route
1

An obvious crack 20 m right of the WB gulley. The route is about 35m long.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits, 1999

2

About 40m right of SCID. A few steepish moves up to the belay ledge and the start of the next pitch.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

3

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

4

Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.

FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling, 2009

5
22 *** Endless Summer Sport 14

Face climbing can‟t get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

6
23 ** Superfly Sport 17

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of ES. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

7
23 ** Good Times Sport 17

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30+m long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

8
25 * Fudge Beats Burfee Sport 10

Diagonally leftwards up to the obvious knee bar in the block under the overlap. Pull over this rightwards then easy to finish.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

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28 * Monkey Puzzle Sport 11

Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

10

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30+m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

11

Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'ATWD' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The climb can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

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24 ** Trippin' on Life Sport 15

The long face just left of CJ.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

13

pitch 20** 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge cams and up to the obvious ledge. Pitch 15** 12m Continue straight to the top. Can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

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19 ** Who's Your Daddy? Sport 12

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

FA: Alex Janse van Rensburg, 1999

15

Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles!

FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 1999

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20 *** Chakalaka Sport 12

Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

17

Just right of the arete, 30+m long. so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

18
23 * Wish You Were Here Sport 13

Share the first couple of bolts with UH, then out right. Ever so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

19
21 * Nature of Being Sport 9

Ever so slightly run out!!! Take a #0 and #0.5 Friend plus a #1 rock for in case you need it.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

20

About 50m left of Heck, Tick. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

21

Start at large flaring offwidth crack. Climb the crack till it ends and move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2 meters. Pull through break and up headwall. Take small gear.

FA: Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring & Douard le Roux, 2003

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16 *** Heck, Tick Trad

Starts below on an obvious corner capped by large roofs 15m above. Climb the corner and bypass the roofs on the left, then straight up the head wall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

23

Climb the corner 2m left of DFADS; bypass overhang on left and scamper up slab through overlap to top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

24

Starts 15m left of FTL. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

25

Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003