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Description

Lots of trad classics and some bolted ones too. The potential here (also behind it on the other side of the ridge) is largely untapped and one looks down into the valley with the falls lurking constantly behind you when you climb.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

Take the N4 highway (east) towards Nelspruit. 1,7km after exiting the tunnel, a dirt road turns left and crosses the Elands river. Always stay left on this up the hill, back in the direction of the waterfall until a parking place is reached after a right bend. This road is known not to always be in good condition. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car, locked vehicles have been broken into here. From the parking, cross the railway track and walk up the hill on faint paths up to the cliff. On the left is an impressive face with a great fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next west face to the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded by 2 wider cracks.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby hole onto the slab (crux needs friend #and follow the crack to the top.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

2

4m right of TSN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!

FA: M Loewe, A Lainis, 1992

3
25 * African Odyssey Sport 13

Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face, then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers.

FA: Andrew Lainis, 1992

4

Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the coldshuts.

FA: M Loewe, 1992

5

The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project.

FA: C Curson, B Marcus & L Waldman, 1992

6

Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arete.

FA: Brett Clarke, 1992

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The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly right at the top to exit.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

8

On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

9

The wider crack just to the right.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

10

in a crazy wild place. The arete right of the 3 cracks. Permission has been granted for retro-bolting!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992

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20 * Black Planet Trad

Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. The right hand one is not too pleasant (grade - 22/23). This route is the left one.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

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20 Dark Star Trad

pitch 20 Climb the right corner. Exiting left. Pitch 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. Move back right to the corner.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

13
25 ** Mannenburg Trad

Start 4m right of the corner, climb the short face to below the roof, turn this and climb the crack to the top.

FA: Ian Manson & R Uken, 1992

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17 * White Arses Sport 4

Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious right- slanting crack.

FA: Kohle, 1993

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Climb the rightward slanting crack.

16

The line of ring bolts to the right of the crack.

FA: M Jager, 1993

17

A finger crack up the on-balance wall, opposite the cave. Starts just right of the short, obvious layback crack.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

18

Starts 6m left of the offwidth, DBB just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Go thinly up a seam, then up right until able to go up and back leftwards to lower offs near the arete.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

19

Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & C Lomax, 1992

20

Climb the crack line inside the cave.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

21

Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof 106 to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1992

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Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder, opposite DEATH BY BANDA.

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20 * Tramplepath Sport 5

Another line of bolts, on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.

FA: German Raiders, 1993

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17 Whistle Stop Trad

On railway side of boulder. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder, below the obvious broad crack line. Climb the crack.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

25

On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

26

Climb the big flake line right of MMM.

FA: A Gillet, A Russel-Boulton, 1992

27

Climb the on-balance wall right of FCC. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half way up, then straight up.

FA: A Gillet & A Russel-Boulton, 1992

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18 ** The Bart Man Trad

Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.

FA: A Russel-Boulton & A Gillet, 1992

29

The obvious thin crack line left of SUTBID.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992

30

The short crack behind the pinnacle. Seam on left, long crack on right.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

31

Still no sign of Dopey. Somewhere out there does he lurk.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

32

The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar, opposite SUTBID.

FA: G Laurens & F van der Linder, 1992

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24 * Palm It Off Sport 8

Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Next to this you may find this climb.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992